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Gen 2 light is on

Tskeff41

New member
4
1
1
Location
California
My gen two light is glowing red and I haven’t figured out how to fix the issue. I replaced both batteries and alternators and it still remained on so I had it tested and it said voltage regulator was bad in that gen 2 alternator so I replaced it one more time.... and it still remained on however on the second test just said I’m at 27.8ish volts. The magnet on the back of the passenger alternator wasn’t as strong as the old and new alternator on the drivers side and neither were the other two I replaced on that passenger side. The light goes off once I unplug the two prong and wire clip from the top of the alt. Any ideas on what this could be?
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,266
1,782
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
A volt meter is much better than a magnet for voltage diagnostics. I suggest you read the electrical troubleshooting guide in the -20 manual. Then follow the steps exactly.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
May I suggest you take the Gen 2 to a competent rebuilding shop and have them properly diagnose the issue. I have mine all rebuilt at the same place and he is happy to help every time I have an issue. Not very often because he rebuilds them for me and I do the installation. Good Luck. There is much more to properly rebuilding automotive components than opening them up and adding a few new parts. Be safe. I attached the rebuilders link below.
http://leidyrepair.com/
 

Tow4

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,096
646
113
Location
Orlando, FL
You can test the alternator on the vehicle with the engine running by connecting a wire from the B+ terminal on the alternator under test to the #1 and #2 regulator terminals. Just unplug the regulator connector for the test. All the other wires from the vehicle need to be connected to the alternator.

If after testing you determine the alternator is not working, disassemble the alternator and check that the three screws that attach the regulator and brush holder assembly to the end casting are insulated and the insulators are not damaged. Make sure the wire that runs from the negative heat sink to the regulator is there.

If you have a DMM, you can check the trio. Put the black meter lead on the long trio terminal and the red lead on the short terminal. There should be continuity, there should be no continuity when you reverse the leads. The rectifier is tested the same way as the trio.

You can look at my rebuild thread (link in my signature) for pictures and details.
 
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