Gen1 trouble

[AllAmerican505]

I need help. I’ve read all the forums and the TM’s printed the schematic’s.
My problem is:
No gen 1 ligh on dash.
Alt has
Key off
12 volt red
0 brown
Power on
12 volt red
0 volt brown
Dash has 12 volts both sides of the bulb gen 1
Both gen2 24volt
Traced to cluster plug both brown wires have 12/24 respectively.
I removed the fuse box plug engine side and did a continuity check both brown wires.
I’ve checked the gen2 diode and power only goes one way.

my question is where in the harnesses after the cluster and to the engine harnesses does the brown wire go?
Schematics don’t give you real world location just a general route.

I did change gen1 As a last resort with a new one.
Still same no excitement.
Does gen1 light even work on start up?
Total voltage is 26.4 ish running

 

[WWRD99]

So having voltage on both sides of the gen light bulb means the ground isn't there. I use a PowerProbe to test those bulbs before I put the cluster back in. You can activate each bulb. It's not led right? They won't work in the gen lights. There's a sticky about testing the alternators in the truck. Extremely simple to follow. In the first few posts in cucv.

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[AllAmerican505]

So having voltage on both sides of the gen light bulb means the ground isn't there. I use a PowerProbe to test those bulbs before I put the cluster back in. You can activate each bulb. It's not led right? They won't work in the gen lights. There's a sticky about testing the alternators in the truck. Extremely simple to follow. In the first few posts in cucv.

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Brand new bulbs non led
What ground would it be?

 

[WWRD99]

Brand new bulbs non led
What ground would it be?

Ground comes from the alternator. The test in the sticky goes over it easy.

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[AllAmerican505]

Ground comes from the alternator. The test in the sticky goes over it easy.

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I have tested the alternators
I have no excitement on brown wire
Traced to fuse box continuity unplugged
Cleaned the block
Rebuilt the cluster
New bulbs new
Relays
Checked the diode
Have voltage at back of cluster plug
What ground you speak of as I went around and cleaned every one

 

[WWRD99]

I have tested the alternators
I have no excitement on brown wire
Traced to fuse box continuity unplugged
Cleaned the block
Rebuilt the cluster
New bulbs new
Relays
Checked the diode
Have voltage at back of cluster plug
What ground you speak of as I went around and cleaned every one

The ground is the voltage regulator in the alternator. The test in the sticky will tell you what's wrong with the system.

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[AllAmerican505]

Ground comes from the alternator. The test in the sticky goes over it easy.

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I’ve read all the forums and even printed the process.
I’ve swapped gen 1 with a new alternator

 

[Barrman]

The brown wires go to the ALT 1 and ALT 2 relays under the dash.

 

[AllAmerican505]

I’ve read all the forums and even printed the process.
I’ve swapped gen 1 with a new alternator

 

[AllAmerican505]

The brown wires go to the ALT 1 and ALT 2 relays under the dash.

I’ve changed both by the dog head relay.

 

[WWRD99]

I’ve read all the forums and even printed the process.
I’ve swapped gen 1 with a new alternator

Ok so you don't have power on pin 1 on the double pin plug that goes to the voltage regulator. The brown wire. You have power to the red wire. You do that test with it not plugged in. You should have power at the brown wire with the key on with it not plugged in. That brown wire for gen one goes to the light bulb in the gen 1 bulb on the dash not a relay. Since you have power at the bulb you've got the connection at the firewall then to the alternator. Can do a voltage drop on the wire at the bulb to the alternator and see if the wire is good. Did you test for power at the alternator not plugged in?

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[AllAmerican505]

Ok so you don't have power on pin 1 on the double pin plug that goes to the voltage regulator. The brown wire. You have power to the red wire. You do that test with it not plugged in. You should have power at the brown wire with the key on with it not plugged in. That brown wire for gen one goes to the light bulb in the gen 1 bulb on the dash not a relay. Since you have power at the bulb you've got the connection at the firewall then to the alternator. Can do a voltage drop on the wire at the bulb to the alternator and see if the wire is good. Did you test for power at the alternator not plugged in?

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I did the key on key off not plugged in.
I’ve cleaned every ground
Except the one in the back
However I used a cable and grounded the block to the negative terminal just to be sure.
Rebuild the dash cluster and new sockets and bulbs
Think 186 or 194 don’t remember
I have power at back of cluster in both brown wires.
Continuity with the harness disconnected.
Have power at heater fuse and the red one at the bottom.
I can only surmise that the fuse block may be bad
Although nothing is melting I’ve clean the engine bay plug.
I’m at a loss

 

[WWRD99]

I did the key on key off not plugged in.
I’ve cleaned every ground
Except the one in the back
However I used a cable and grounded the block to the negative terminal just to be sure.
Rebuild the dash cluster and new sockets and bulbs
Think 186 or 194 don’t remember
I have power at back of cluster in both brown wires.
Continuity with the harness disconnected.
Have power at heater fuse and the red one at the bottom.
I can only surmise that the fuse block may be bad
Although nothing is melting I’ve clean the engine bay plug.
I’m at a loss

All you need to do is test that brown wire at the cluster to the alternator. That will tell you if it's good or not. If it does not test good, go to the fuse block and test there. If that's good, go from the fuse block to the alternator. One of the 2 will give you the answer.

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[AllAmerican505]

All you need to do is test that brown wire at the cluster to the alternator. That will tell you if it's good or not. If it does not test good, go to the fuse block and test there. If that's good, go from the fuse block to the alternator. One of the 2 will give you the answer.

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Got nothing in the engine bay brown 12 volt.
I’ve tested as far as back of cluster and have power
Both with test light and volt meter.
After the dash where does the brown wire go.
Seems I’d have to take the fuse block off then I can no longer test for 12 volt.
Fuses have the correct voltage.
I donno

 

[RattleSnack]

Did you check your heater fuse? This fuse is not only is for the heater, but it's also your 4x4 light, oil pressure light, and GEN1 light.

 

[AllAmerican505]

Did you check your heater fuse? This fuse not only is for the heater, but it also your 4x4 light, oil pressure light, and GEN1 light.

View attachment 944309

I did and the heater works as well as oil and 4x4 lights

 

[WWRD99]

Got nothing in the engine bay brown 12 volt.
I’ve tested as far as back of cluster and have power
Both with test light and volt meter.
After the dash where does the brown wire go.
Seems I’d have to take the fuse block off then I can no longer test for 12 volt.
Fuses have the correct voltage.
I donno

Ok so this makes no sense. If the brown wire has tested good from the cluster to the alternator it has to have power at the alternator because you have power at the bulbs. It's a straight shot through the firewall to the alternator. Have you ohm checked the brown wire from the alternator to the bulb? Is it 0?

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[AllAmerican505]

Ok so this makes no sense. If the brown wire has tested good from the cluster to the alternator it has to have power at the alternator because you have power at the bulbs. It's a straight shot through the firewall to the alternator. Have you ohm checked the brown wire from the alternator to the bulb? Is it 0?

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No I did not somewhere from the cluster to the fire wall is my problem.
That’s what I think
Seems I can set up a long wire test for that

 

[AllAmerican505]

No I did not somewhere from the cluster to the fire wall is my problem.
That’s what I think
Seems I can set up a long wire test for that

Yes I have continuity just checked brown wire to dash bulb both side’s
Does the light even come on ever

 

[WWRD99]

No I did not somewhere from the cluster to the fire wall is my problem.
That’s what I think
Seems I can set up a long wire test for that

Just need to put your voltmeter in between and read what it says. Figure f9 in the tm shows the connection the brown wire goes through the firewall on. Back probing that is very difficult so you'd have to unbolt it to test it from the block to the alternator and the block to the bulb.

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