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General Hmmwv 4BT / 4L80 Questions

Dr.Hmmwv

New member
4
3
3
Location
NW Arkansas
I just wanted to make sure that understanding this right before I start purchasing all the parts I need. I have tried reading several forums and post and just wanted to be completely sure since I'm a 3rd year medical student and on a thin budget at the moment. Also, my friend that has the diesel background, and has been working on this swap, did inform me up front that he does not have much knowledge when it comes to electronics and wanted me to look into the electronic side of things.

Own: 1987 6.2L Hmmwv

In process of installing: 4BT(p-pump) , 4l80e, NP242

Now for the electronics side:

I was going to purchase the US Shift Quick 4 for the 4L80 to try and keep this as simple as possible

Since the vehicle is 24v was looking at purchasing a Sure Power 21100E00 Battery Equalizer (100amps) and could use this to run 12v items and 24v items

Thus, I believe I would need a 24v alternator for this setup and was planning to purchase a DELCO REMY 28SI 24V 110 AMP ALTERNATOR (J180 mount) which I believe should fit the 4BT

Also, the adapter for the 4l80 to 4BT uses a Ford 6.4 starter so was going to purchase a 12v Starter which from what I have read should work fine with this setup, just see mention to make sure 12v goes to solenoid. (Also only see one Ford 6.4 Starter that is 24v and it cost double any regular 12v version so hoping the 12v is fine in this setup)


Just wanted to double check that this looks alright and that not messing anything up or buying wrong parts. Also, if there are simpler solutions or any further recommendations would be interested to hear them.

Thank You
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Location
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Many might say that you might as well go for a 6 cylinder Cummins or a turbo diesel 6.5 instead of 4BT. Go to website 4btswaps.com

Limited budget and HMMWV don’t mix.

Go with a 24 volt starter and stop being penny wise and pound foolish. 24 Volt spins faster and starts engine more easily.

You need a lift kit as the 4BT sits high. That means you need to adjust position of fuel cell BUT you might have old style cell and might want to update it, especially if you plan to upgrade E-brake and such.

IMHO
 

springer1981

Well-known member
844
1,150
93
Location
Maine
I just wanted to make sure that understanding this right before I start purchasing all the parts I need. I have tried reading several forums and post and just wanted to be completely sure since I'm a 3rd year medical student and on a thin budget at the moment. Also, my friend that has the diesel background, and has been working on this swap, did inform me up front that he does not have much knowledge when it comes to electronics and wanted me to look into the electronic side of things.

Own: 1987 6.2L Hmmwv

In process of installing: 4BT(p-pump) , 4l80e, NP242

Now for the electronics side:

I was going to purchase the US Shift Quick 4 for the 4L80 to try and keep this as simple as possible

Since the vehicle is 24v was looking at purchasing a Sure Power 21100E00 Battery Equalizer (100amps) and could use this to run 12v items and 24v items

Thus, I believe I would need a 24v alternator for this setup and was planning to purchase a DELCO REMY 28SI 24V 110 AMP ALTERNATOR (J180 mount) which I believe should fit the 4BT

Also, the adapter for the 4l80 to 4BT uses a Ford 6.4 starter so was going to purchase a 12v Starter which from what I have read should work fine with this setup, just see mention to make sure 12v goes to solenoid. (Also only see one Ford 6.4 Starter that is 24v and it cost double any regular 12v version so hoping the 12v is fine in this setup)


Just wanted to double check that this looks alright and that not messing anything up or buying wrong parts. Also, if there are simpler solutions or any further recommendations would be interested to hear them.

Thank You
The Quick 4 is a good choice, it's simple and easy to install. When I did my 4L80 swap I used a 20amp dc to dc converter and it works fine, you don't need 100 amps. I wouldn't use 12v starter in a 24v (28v) system.
 

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
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This should be moved to the Mods forum.
I just converted the truck to 12V, you can use a converter for the 24V stuff like the blower and WW.
I did a Duramax it can easily mount two alternators so I am running separate 12V and 24V systems.
I replaced the entire wire harness with a custom made one from headlights to taillights and all the instruments.
As TOBASH said this in NOT a venture for someone with a "thin" budget.
The 4BT is not going to give you that much more power than a turbo Detroit so the question is why?
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
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Location
Charlotte NC
I just wanted to make sure that understanding this right before I start purchasing all the parts I need. I have tried reading several forums and post and just wanted to be completely sure since I'm a 3rd year medical student and on a thin budget at the moment. Also, my friend that has the diesel background, and has been working on this swap, did inform me up front that he does not have much knowledge when it comes to electronics and wanted me to look into the electronic side of things.

Own: 1987 6.2L Hmmwv

In process of installing: 4BT(p-pump) , 4l80e, NP242

Now for the electronics side:

I was going to purchase the US Shift Quick 4 for the 4L80 to try and keep this as simple as possible

Since the vehicle is 24v was looking at purchasing a Sure Power 21100E00 Battery Equalizer (100amps) and could use this to run 12v items and 24v items

Thus, I believe I would need a 24v alternator for this setup and was planning to purchase a DELCO REMY 28SI 24V 110 AMP ALTERNATOR (J180 mount) which I believe should fit the 4BT

Also, the adapter for the 4l80 to 4BT uses a Ford 6.4 starter so was going to purchase a 12v Starter which from what I have read should work fine with this setup, just see mention to make sure 12v goes to solenoid. (Also only see one Ford 6.4 Starter that is 24v and it cost double any regular 12v version so hoping the 12v is fine in this setup)


Just wanted to double check that this looks alright and that not messing anything up or buying wrong parts. Also, if there are simpler solutions or any further recommendations would be interested to hear them.

Thank You
.
I re-read your post again - and is the powerplant in your truck shot? Dead? Or is this a "I wanna upgrade" thing? Like the guys mentioned earlier, this isn't a hobby for the limited budget. I am just guessing - without pictures - but there should be other things that could be looked at as well. The very basics like fluid levels in the differentials and transfer case. The brakes and a small list of other things that should be looked at too before a motor swap.

Believe me, I love projects and there are several of the guys who have done some pretty amazing upgrades to the HMMWV's they own. Just trying to see if you have a particular plan...
 

SmartDrug

Well-known member
211
304
63
Location
Saint Charles, IL
-3rd year Med School

-Limited Budget

Find a new hobby. Come back to HMMWVs when you're done with residency and established.


My $0.02, Humvees are a ton of fun, but are expensive and require a lot of time and a lot of wrenching to get and keep roadworthy. Don't compromise your education with a distraction like this. The caliber of truck you will build under these conditions and with a shoestring budget will pale in comparison to what you can build when you're making $200k after a couple years of practice.
 

Dr.Hmmwv

New member
4
3
3
Location
NW Arkansas
1. Yes the motor it came with was completely shot when purchased it several years ago, when had full time job before returning to school. The mechanic was recommended to insisted on the mechanical 4BT (which I'm sure looking back was to avoid wiring issues being mechanical), however after years of having it only managed to remove the engine. *Thus this is why got the p-pump 4BT (Has larger injectors and a Holset HX30 Super ) and all the parts for this swap
2. Had it moved to guy in the town, were currently going to school ,and had stripped it down to frame and had it coated and replaced everything that could use updating such as steering components, ball joints(3/8 - also got reinforcment kit for rubberduck), brakes, and also installed 2.5" frame mount body lift as well as the lift spacers for the springs. (Also found out it already had the snow plow front springs)
3. The adapter for this motor / tranny swap was made for a Ford 6.4 starter and was having trouble finding a 24v version, with the only one I could even find being from a site I have never heard of and was nearly $500, compared to $120 for 12v ones could get anywhere. Also, have noticed this is not a cheap hobby since already going through a small fortune just in changing out all the parts in previous comment along with the few upgrades done so far. So was trying to save some money and just get it finished.

I appreciate the suggestions, and yes I would have loved to have gone with 6BT or duramax but due to the horrible first mechanic suggestions prior to me having any diesel knowledge had already purchased everything for this build and at this point just trying to finish it and can do any additional upgrades later after finish school or whenever stock market goes back up.

Thank You
 
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