Generator-battery indicator pegged for few minutes, then jump into green range

[Mario]

Guys, on my M998 I more often than not see the battery indicator pegged into red for first few minutes after starting, then it settles into green and remains there for remainder of trip.
I have not tried to turn it off and on right-away to see if it's a function of truck starting, but wanted to seek common wisdom to see if this is common.

 

[NDT]

The red on the right scale or left scale ?

 

[Mario]

The red on the right scale or left scale ?

The red on the right, as in maxed out.
It almost looks like it's by design to recharge batteries or keep the glow plugs going.

 

[NDT]

That is super bad, the alt is overvolting and will blow your glow plug box.

 

[Mario]

That is super bad, the alt is overvolting and will blow your glow plug box.

What do I need to fix the issue?
Any specific part numbers would be great.

 

[NDT]

The 60 amp unit is repairable, but is unreliable. Switch to the 200 amp alt.

 

[Mario]

The 60 amp unit is repairable, but is unreliable. Switch to the 200 amp alt.

Is this the unreliable part? [FONT=&quot]2920-01-180-86[/FONT][FONT=&quot]66 VOLTAGE REGULATOR M998 28V 60A REPLACES AMA2004AS, 35-790
[/FONT]http://www.ebay.com/itm/311314225482 for $61 bucks[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]

What 200 amp alt do you recommend and does it come with both 12V and 24V outputs?

 

[NDT]

There are numerous versions of the 60A alternator. Yes, in your case the regulator is bad, but without knowing the part number of your alternator, I can't say if the regulator you listed is correct. Probably is though.

 

[badgerord]

There are at least 3 versions of the 60 amp regulator.

Look at your alt 's tag, if its a Seimens/Hellas you need this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/201732951944?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

If it's a prestolite or southern automotive you need this one, but you need to verify the connector type.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2920-01-180...225482?hash=item487bc6194a:g:8iUAAOSwEeFU~ulF

Look here for more info on what version you need, there are round pin and flat spade type connectors, make sure you get the right one.
http://www.southernautomotive.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/101

 

[Mario]

Thanks for the info.
If I do go the upgraded alternator route, which alternator am I looking for?
I see fleabay auctions for upgrade kits and they range in items included and prices, but none of the kits include the auctual alternator?!? What the actual upgrade then?
Here are two listings with different prices and what's included in the kit (from what I can tell in the pictures):
1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/201602458146
2. http://www.ebay.com/itm/311688658136

I know that people on eBay play games with prices; offering low selling price, but then gauging buyers on high shipping rates. I'm simply asking what the kits include, what they offer in terms of upgrade and ultimately, what do I need to get my lady going again.

 

[Wire Fox]

Thanks for the info.
If I do go the upgraded alternator route, which alternator am I looking for?
I see fleabay auctions for upgrade kits and they range in items included and prices, but none of the kits include the auctual alternator?!? What the actual upgrade then?
Here are two listings with different prices and what's included in the kit (from what I can tell in the pictures):
1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/201602458146
2. http://www.ebay.com/itm/311688658136

I know that people on eBay play games with prices; offering low selling price, but then gauging buyers on high shipping rates. I'm simply asking what the kits include, what they offer in terms of upgrade and ultimately, what do I need to get my lady going again.

Both of those kits should be the same. Whatever comes out to be the preferred price or seller to you is what you should go with. It gives you 99% of the parts you need to installed a 200A Niehoff alternator in a single voltage configuration. You need to provide your own N1225-1 alternator. These go from $250-1200, depending on condition and seller. Make sure that you buy own that has its voltage regulator connected and some sort of guaruntee of functionality. It looks like a heatsink that's bolted to the to the side of the alternator and is where you'll connect several of the wires.

There will be one error in the instructions provided with that kit: Do NOT connect the 12V terminal on the regulator to ground. This must either be left open (as in, no wire connection) or you should run an 8 AWG wire to the battery box to provide a 12V charge to a single battery. If you're not using 12V accessories wired to a single battery or you don't have the 4L80E transmission that requires a 12V supply, I recommend just doing the single voltage installation with only the 24V cable provided. You can always add the 12V capability later, as needed. This piece of information is direct from CE Niehoff and you can go to their website and find a technical paper they have published that shows the proper connection methods for the N1225-1.

 

[Ddk2001]

There will be one error in the instructions provided with that kit: Do NOT connect the 12V terminal on the regulator to ground. This must either be left open (as in, no wire connection) or you should run an 8 AWG wire to the battery box to provide a 12V charge to a single battery. If you're not using 12V accessories wired to a single battery or you don't have the 4L80E transmission that requires a 12V supply, I recommend just doing the single voltage installation with only the 24V cable provided. You can always add the 12V capability later, as needed. This piece of information is direct from CE Niehoff and you can go to their website and find a technical paper they have published that shows the proper connection methods for the N1225-1.

The instructions do not say to ground the 14v stud in the Niehoff application. I've heard lots of folks say to ground that 14v post - but I've never been able to confirm it. Perhaps it's a different mfg? The Niehoff installation instructions are here: http://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/II0028D_uid121020091201492.pdf

My dual voltage was installed within nothing on the 14v post - and I just completed the project running an 8ga wire to the 14v battery for accessories.

 

[Wire Fox]

The instructions do not say to ground the 14v stud in the Niehoff application. I've heard lots of folks say to ground that 14v post - but I've never been able to confirm it. Perhaps it's a different mfg? The Niehoff installation instructions are here: http://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/II0028D_uid121020091201492.pdf

My dual voltage was installed within nothing on the 14v post - and I just completed the project running an 8ga wire to the 14v battery for accessories.

Possibly is different manufacturers, or could just be that I had an older kit. The drive belts I received were in poor condition, despite being new in bag. My kit was also missing two small pieces of hardware (a washer and a bolt) that should have been in one of the sealed bags. My instructions clearly showed to fabricate a jumper wire to connect the +14V lead on the regulator to the case of the alternator. I questioned this, so I contacted CE Niehoff and was given the same document you linked, which was far more logical.