• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Generator in a shipping container

DeadParrot

Active member
213
47
28
Location
oklahoma city, ok
If you don't mind old school, find a old style mercury house thermostat and set it for the trip temp desired. Might have to tilt it a bit to shift the trip temp depending on trip point desired. Use it to switch on a buzzer either in your house or a loud one on the outside of the container. Of course, you have to supply your own battery and buzzer.
 

Ranger Danger

Member
76
4
8
Location
Vacaville ca
Well I got the shipping container placed and the generator inside. I still need to do all the plumbing. A smart man I know mentioned a possible problem. When I run the exhaust out the side of the container, what should I do about condensation in the exhaust line?
 

Light in the Dark

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,861
6,076
113
Location
MA
Well how do you intend on plumbing it.... straight up? Or out the side? How far is the exit point from the current exhaust termination on the genset?
 

Ranger Danger

Member
76
4
8
Location
Vacaville ca
Well how do you intend on plumbing it.... straight up? Or out the side? How far is the exit point from the current exhaust termination on the genset?
I will run the pipe at about a 45* angle from the exhaust outlet on top of the generator for 6-7 feet to the upper side of the container. Then straight out the side and then 45* down for 2-3 inches.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

justacitizen

Active member
408
40
28
Location
oklahoma
in my old Onan book it describes for condensation to plumb the exhaust out at horizontal and when you transition to vertical put a T fitting in and one side goes up to exit and the bottom of the T you put a short couple of feet going down. put a cap on the bottom pipe and drill a small hole in it to allow the condensation to drain. check drain hole occasionally.
 

Ranger Danger

Member
76
4
8
Location
Vacaville ca
in my old Onan book it describes for condensation to plumb the exhaust out at horizontal and when you transition to vertical put a T fitting in and one side goes up to exit and the bottom of the T you put a short couple of feet going down. put a cap on the bottom pipe and drill a small hole in it to allow the condensation to drain. check drain hole occasionally.
I could make that work. Maybe even thread a fuel filter in the bottom cap to drain.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

Light in the Dark

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,861
6,076
113
Location
MA
What justacitizen described was basically what I was going to tell you. I am sure you can find a fitting suitable for this. In fact, why not just drill and tap the black iron cap fitting that you could install in the bottom of the T, and just use a fitting similar to whats already on your MEP radiator! https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...VA0OGCh2cqARgEAQYAyABEgJE__D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds. Probably just have the bottom of the T come down 12" or so, then install the drilled & tapped cap, with this.
 

Ranger Danger

Member
76
4
8
Location
Vacaville ca
What justacitizen described was basically what I was going to tell you. I am sure you can find a fitting suitable for this. In fact, why not just drill and tap the black iron cap fitting that you could install in the bottom of the T, and just use a fitting similar to whats already on your MEP radiator! https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...VA0OGCh2cqARgEAQYAyABEgJE__D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds. Probably just have the bottom of the T come down 12" or so, then install the drilled & tapped cap, with this.
I was just thinking a fuel filter would drain itself. The petcock idea would work great, I would just have to remember to drain it.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

Light in the Dark

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,861
6,076
113
Location
MA
Nothing saying you couldnt just leave it open, but only slightly. Or just plumb in a nipple barb, and hook a plastic drip line to it, and direct out of your container.
 

justacitizen

Active member
408
40
28
Location
oklahoma
as the Onan manual states that the T should be exterior of the hut.probably to prevent Co2 poisoning from the open hole. yoy could install a small cotter pin into the hole and bend the legs over on the inside. the vibration will keep the hole open from rust particles.
 

Ranger Danger

Member
76
4
8
Location
Vacaville ca
Just a brief update. I got the genny in the container and mounted down with 4 one inch thick, 4X4 isolation pads. I also got the exhaust run out of the side of the container and through another muffler. I increased the diameter of the exhaust pipe to 1 1/2" right out of the top of the genny. Its now all wired up to the RV. I found I had a "low fuel" light and genny shut down occurring. I'm replacing the in-tank sending unit in a week or so.

I still need to sound deaden the inside of the container and install the intake air fan and exhaust vent. For now, the sound with the doors open and genny running at about 20' is around 73db. With the doors closed its around 65db. I'm happy with that. It should get better with sound deadening. I also put together an auxiliary fuel tank system that I have not hooked up yet. Its made with 2 50 gallon tanks from the belly of 2 refer big rig trailers. They are manifolded together to create one 100 gallon tank and run through a fuel filter.

DSCN2324.jpgDSCN2325 (1).jpgDSCN2326 (1).jpgDSCN2327 (2).jpgDSCN2328 (2).jpgDSCN2329 (1).jpg
 

smokem joe

Active member
499
68
28
Location
Green OH
I have about 8' of pipe running off mine. I also wrapped it with exhaust insulation to keep it hot till it gets out to reduce condensation. Any condensation that forms runs into a 4" drip leg with a drain valve right off the side of the generator. That way nothing can run back into the unit even if the top were to take in rain somehow. I would look into a piece of flex right off the top to the generator if I were you. That is a lot of strain on your muffler.
 

Ranger Danger

Member
76
4
8
Location
Vacaville ca
I have about 8' of pipe running off mine. I also wrapped it with exhaust insulation to keep it hot till it gets out to reduce condensation. Any condensation that forms runs into a 4" drip leg with a drain valve right off the side of the generator. That way nothing can run back into the unit even if the top were to take in rain somehow. I would look into a piece of flex right off the top to the generator if I were you. That is a lot of strain on your muffler.
Thanks Joe, I had planned a condensate drain. The flex line is a good thought as well.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

Chainbreaker

Well-known member
1,802
2,010
113
Location
Oregon
Nice generator enclosure...coming together nicely. That refer tank aux setup works nicely for me too! Since you have a strong ceiling have you considered hanging them from the ceiling (like they were originally hung under a refer trailer) to free up your floor space underneath? Might require a short step stool to refill them though. Speaking of refilling how do you plan to refuel them? Jerry can top up or long hose & pump to outside refueling source?
 

Ranger Danger

Member
76
4
8
Location
Vacaville ca
I don't want or need it elevated. I'd be concerned about over filling the on-board tank with a siphon issue. I will be dividing the container in half at the center. If you look in the pic, there is 2 plywood covered cutout's for man doors. One will be the easy access to the genny. The other would be for access to tool storage. I have a 100 gal. transfer tank in my truck I will be using to fuel the tanks for the genny. I will just pull up next to the man door and run my 12 foot fueling hose in.
 

Attachments

smokem joe

Active member
499
68
28
Location
Green OH
Sure thing! I have galvanized pipe on mine for exhaust. I just took a couple black pipe 2" nipples and welded them in a piece of flex with a tig. The cheap flex in 25' rolls will leak badly. I had a piece of the good stuff about 12" long that I used.
 

smokem joe

Active member
499
68
28
Location
Green OH
Of course if you take the pipe you have to a muffler shop and have them bend a piece exactly like it and weld that flex in you will have a setup with a lot less weight!
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks