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Generator output

Kenneth Cole

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Hi
91 humvee with a 60 amp generator. I cleaned out all the brush dust and the brushes looked OK. Looked over the regulator and didn't see anything obvious . With it running and the voltage gage is running in the middle of the yellow I am reading 25 volts . The gage will run in the green at times and also drop down into the yellow and stay there for some time and then jump up into the green. There seems to be no pattern to it.
Any thoughts?

Thanks
Ken
 

Milcommoguy

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Here are my thoughts and free guesses. Fix could be two words above.

Note that the 60 amp "ALTERNATORS" charge output flows thru the "BOX" (pcb-esss). Connections in and out of "BOX" or "BOX" could be a problem?

AS ALWAYS... Disconnect batteries before removing any connectors at "BOX" or poking around HOT circuits, UNLESS QUALIFIED.
HAHa MADE it red PAPAKB


Engine harness PIN "F" alternator 24 Volts input to "BOX" 8 ga wire
Engine harness PIN "D" 24 Volts back to POS post on starter, then on to the batteries 8 ga wire

Alternator "sense lead" (the one with the Packard connector) is spliced to alternator output in harness. Both "sense lead" and "output stud" on alternator should be the same potential / voltages. (60 AMPer rigs ONLY) unless this splice has gone to crap. Not likely. Double check the Packard fit up.

Other small lead is the A.C. Tap. Part of the start interlock. Not part of this thought.

The RUN contractor or stack of cheap imported relays are known to cause flaky / intermittent charge conditions. (along with dimming headlights and engine just stopping, then going again. It can happen REAL quickly and feel like a miss or hick-up. (intermittent and a Excedrin headache)

This is most noted when charge is normal and drops to a LOW condition. Stop at store, grab a six pack. Head home... all is OK. Next day... right out of the gate LOW. Intermittent BS. This is a place where gremlins live. Got to find one... wack it and wait for the next one. Process of elimination with understanding.

Sounds like you covered some bases with the brushes. Clean up slip rings and good brush tension ? Sixty AMP regulators have issues TOO. Little hard to guess fix this. Look back thru SS post for many notes. Remove and replace is the easiest IMO ( Regulators have two styles so get the right one & grab a brush assy. )

If you have to pull it to work on it, watch out for any spacers and the way the brackets go.

It's REALLY hard to fix intermittent 's over the interweb. So, I'am just pointing out more what if's checks... than what to fix. This charging system all works together.

(Yea, CAMO we know that)

If you pull the regulator... any blown stuff ? "PAPAKB" has the scoop on this. I have found that the adjustment control (POT) wire can become detached.
It is a small short solid wire from circuit board to voltage adjustment. Typical cold solder joint... so wiggle it to check or rework.

Notes to trouble shoot:
Voltmeter and wiring good ? not sure ? Temp in a real digital one across batteries
Brushes checked, slip rings, tension - good? cheap to replace. Keep a spare in the rear housing.
Regulator ? blown - resistor - little wire ?
ALL Connections, batteries, grounds, clean? Note: in the BAT BOX and under the truck on the starter... YEP there's a + & -
Batteries voltage?
Factory grounds or upgraded ?
Double check the part numbers if replacing.
Send pictures of what you got. If all nasty, rusted, corroded, might be it's time ?

So, I share this info on the 60 AMP system and the charging flow... having been down this road a time or two or three.

GOOD LUCK, Be safe.

Down the yellow voltmeter road, CAMO

WAYYYY more that two words.
 
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Action

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East Tennessee
Ford Model T has generator.

We use alternators.
In the TM, part 10929869 is a Generator, Engine AC 60 amp. also came in a 100 amp version
figure 35 of tm 9-2320-280-24p=1
used on basic and 1a vehicles.

then 100 amp alternator started on a2 models

the 200 amp alternator began with the basic and a1 m996, m997, and m1097.

then a2 went to 200 amp alternators.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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In the TM, part 10929869 is a Generator, Engine AC 60 amp. also came in a 100 amp version
figure 35 of tm 9-2320-280-24p=1
used on basic and 1a vehicles.

then 100 amp alternator started on a2 models

the 200 amp alternator began with the basic and a1 m996, m997, and m1097.

then a2 went to 200 amp alternators.
Stolen from The Internet:


An alternator and a generator are both devices that are used to generate electricity.

Alternators can be termed as types of generators. Even if these devices are used for the same function, they are different in terms of operation.

Alternators are charging systems in vehicles that are used to produce electricity.

Generators are used to produce bulk power.

Both generators and alternators convert mechanical energy into electrical energy through magnetic polarization. Both can work as electric motors if they are supplied with electrical energy rather than mechanical energy.

Alternator vs Generator
The Alternator
An alternator is considered a unique type of generator that can be utilized to convert mechanical energy into electrical energy that gets generated as alternating current. The device is mostly used in the automotive industry to convert mechanical energy into electrical power that can charge the car battery.

The mechanical energy is used to rotate a magnet — the turning of the magnetic field results into a change in magnetic flux which produces current. The alternators directly distribute the produced currently without converting it to DC.

Alternators are devices that are very efficient in the production of energy as they generate electricity only when it is needed. It would be correct to say that they are a contemporary edition of the generator that works to minimize the amount of energy used and minimize the amount of energy wasted. After installing an alternator, there is no polarization needed.

The only precaution needed when using alternators is that they are not suitable for charging completely drained batteries. Trying to do so can cause fire and also damage the environment.

Too little or too much voltage can also damage your battery and other electrical components in your car.

As a result, alternators have voltage regulators that determine how much and when energy is required in the battery.

The Generator
A generator is an electrical device used to convert mechanical energy into electrical energy – it can either produce alternating current (AC) or direct current (DC). How a generator works is what makes it different from an alternator.

The rotor, which consists of coiled wires, is put inside a magnetic field. The rotating of the coiled wires is what generates the electricity. The magnet remains stationary and produces a magnetic field, and the engine’s mechanical energy is utilized to spin the armature.

Since the generators produce voltage throughout and consume all the generated energy, they are primarily used for large-scale electricity production.

Generators get polarized naturally after their installation.

They can even be utilized to charge wholly drained batteries. The direct current produced by a generator is generated when the rotor is connected to the commutator. The commutator is a critical element in the production of direct current in a generator – it consists of a set of separate rings which attach the generator to an external circuit in a way that the current produced is often DC.
 

Thumper580

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What is the output voltage at the alternator? and at the batteries??? I adjusted mine till I had 24.8 at the terminals.... Maybe help pinpoint your problem location...
 

Milcommoguy

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tomato-tomato or potato-potato Automotive in simple terms, as taught by my High School auto shop teacher, Mr. Mead, 1967. RIP

Generator: Has a stationary electromagnetic magnetic field or pole pieces. The part that turns is the armature. The output of the armature connects to the commutator. Wired and built in such a way that DC is taken off by the brushes. (and the way the poles interface) Regulation by varying the electrical current / magnetic field of the pole pieces. Could be mechanical or electronic.

Alternator: Has stator. Normally three. A fixed iron assembly with three sets of winding. Each stator is wired in such a way producing a three phased AC output. (Also mechanical arrangement) The three phased A.C. output is then feed into a diode bank producing the DC. Regulation is a voltage to the rotating field via the slip rings (they are two continuous connections) and brush assembly, adjusted to the desired voltage / current. Normally electronic / sold-state.

AND then the fancy brush-less designs that is a clever mix of both worlds.

There is a difference... one outputs DC, the other converts AC then outputs DC. So Direct Current is the end product. Not pure... but close enough.

ARMY calls everything a generator. AIR FORCE, A bit confused. They go both ways. NAVY, Just paint it. MARINES, Shoot it !

Whatever works. Easy on the salt & pepper, CAMO

From memory. Then there's the Dynamo...............
 
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TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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What is the output voltage at the alternator? and at the batteries??? I adjusted mine till I had 24.8 at the terminals.... Maybe help pinpoint your problem location...
I agree with Action. 24.8 V is too low. Even 26 V is probably too low.
 

Milcommoguy

Well-known member
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That's Looooow. When setting voltage, RPM at 1500 RPM. Batteries MUST be in good condition. Set to 28.5 Volts +/- .2. Hold for a bit of time till batteries equalize, then readjust to 28.5 +/- .2 Funky junk batteries and settings can be all skew and voltage difficult to set or maintain. Not sure??? run the heater motor, lights and set. Recheck to see if voltage is stable in range.

With a digital muti-meter check and note the Humv panel gauge position. If all is good re-calibrate one 's brain to the needle position' s sweet spot . That's your new normal in the green zone. (who does the stuff??)

28.5 Volts +/- .2 at the batteries. 🔋🔋 Typically 14.2 for a single battery 🔋 BUT but but... you have to be careful with the 60 Amp HumV system. Can be hard to balance the voltage between the two, cuz all batteries are not created equal. This is even without tapping off any 12 volt loads. Doing that is very problematic and not recommend IMO. New same lot / batch have a better chance to maintain balance as designed.

This is the system I run with a lot of 12 Volt radio loads, BUT but but, I run a 100 Amp battery equalizer so both batteries play nice.

You need to be clear of ALL connections to and from the batteries, alternator, feed thru's, shunt, etc. and all is up to snuff. Clean, tight, solid, quality connections and cabling.

Some of the rigs I have seen are not a pretty site in the electric's. AND off we go to the races. Not pointing a finger,(y) BUT but but this has been covered a zillion times.

Search a little of the SS threads... ask some more... PEEK at the TM's. Here to help.

Yes, I could be that BUTT head, CAMO :poop:
 
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