genset loadbanks

[shanekarl]

I just searched the site for loadbanks and see most people are DIYing them. Outside of DIY i was wondering what models most people are using.

I have found the A427a on eBay and was wondering if there was any other models I might consider? Also my mep-005 has been modified for single phase 120/240 - will that make a difference with the military 3 phase loadbanks?

Out of curiosity I saw a video of the below loadbank on youtube would anyone happen to know the model number of this one and any others that might work for me?

Thanks!

 

[Scoobyshep]

Depends on the fans they use. If the fans use a 3 phase motor it wont work. I used a fan and some dryer heater elements (got 3 for 120) they are 5500 watt each and can be wired into thirds (they are essentially wye tapped)

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[shanekarl]

Depends on the fans they use. If the fans use a 3 phase motor it wont work. I used a fan and some dryer heater elements (got 3 for 120) they are 5500 watt each and can be wired into thirds (they are essentially wye tapped)

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I read a thread on using the 5500 watt dryer heating elements and I thought i read they dont like to be run for long periods of time. I am hoping to be able to load test for 45-1 hour a few times a year at pretty close to 30kw to ensure no wet stacking on my genset and to just make sure everything is working. Do you think this would be safe? What do you mount the fans on while running to make sure nothing catches fire?

 

[Scoobyshep]

I read a thread on using the 5500 watt dryer heating elements and I thought i read they dont like to be run for long periods of time. I am hoping to be able to load test for 45-1 hour a few times a year at pretty close to 30kw to ensure no wet stacking on my genset and to just make sure everything is working. Do you think this would be safe? What do you mount the fans on while running to make sure nothing catches fire?

The one i built has run for 4+ hours at a time. There is enough air flow to prevent damage. I attached all 3 tubes to a steel plate then attached that to an airhandler blower. Ill try to get you some photos if you need them.

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[shanekarl]

The one i built has run for 4+ hours at a time. There is enough air flow to prevent damage. I attached all 3 tubes to a steel plate then attached that to an airhandler blower. Ill try to get you some photos if you need them.

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no rush but that would be awesome! I don’t know if I’ll diy it or not but it would be nice to have a solid example to follow if so. Thanks!

 

[Guyfang]

The Army load banks are universal. You can test any voltage, phasing and or freq.

Here are a few types of load banks.
Also is a little other data that may be of interest.

 

[shanekarl]

The Army load banks are universal. You can test any voltage, phasing and or freq.

Here are a few types of load banks.
Also is a little other data that may be of interest.

Fantastic!!! Thank you!

 

[shanekarl]

Before i pull the trigger on a load bank on eBay, any pointers on what i should expect to pay - so i don't over pay or if anyone on here has a load bank for sale let me know.

Also found out the model of the load bank i saw online was an m24t-8 and have yet to find one anywhere for any price for sale so that's prob out of the question and overkill for now.

 

[Coug]

Most of us have made our own because commercial/surplus load banks are typically several thousand dollars. Mostly it's a supply/demand thing, there isn't a huge demand, so there isn't much supply for them.

Unless you have a fleet of generators of all different sizes and output types (120, 120/208, 208 3 phase, whatever) it's MUCH more cost effective to either make one or repurpose some other piece of equipment. The main reason to need load banks with so many different adjustments is to verify if a gen can do full load, for an individual owner of a single generator that's massive overkill.

Personally I have a NordicAir 3 ton ECU with 1/3 of the elements physically disconnected in order to exercise my 5kw generator. (that actually puts me about 6kw of draw, but if I adjust the voltage down a bit I sit at about 105-110% load according to the generator gauges) and it only cost me about $120 total.

Since you're talking about a single phase 120/240 30kw generator, an ECU like mine wouldn't be the best option (3 phase only).
If this is the only gen you need to load bank, then buying several 240V heaters and wiring them appropriately might be one option to look at.
For example, you can buy 10kw heaters from Lowes for about $200 each. 3 of those would be a full load, 2 of them would be more than adequate for an extended load test. You could add a 5kw heater to the mix as well if you wanted.

example:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/DuraHeat-10000-Watt-Electric-Garage-Heater-with-Thermostat-and-with-Energy-Saving-Setting/1001052624

 

[shanekarl]

Most of us have made our own because commercial/surplus load banks are typically several thousand dollars. Mostly it's a supply/demand thing, there isn't a huge demand, so there isn't much supply for them.

Unless you have a fleet of generators of all different sizes and output types (120, 120/208, 208 3 phase, whatever) it's MUCH more cost effective to either make one or repurpose some other piece of equipment. The main reason to need load banks with so many different adjustments is to verify if a gen can do full load, for an individual owner of a single generator that's massive overkill.

Personally I have a NordicAir 3 ton ECU with 1/3 of the elements physically disconnected in order to exercise my 5kw generator. (that actually puts me about 6kw of draw, but if I adjust the voltage down a bit I sit at about 105-110% load according to the generator gauges) and it only cost me about $120 total.

Since you're talking about a single phase 120/240 30kw generator, an ECU like mine wouldn't be the best option (3 phase only).
If this is the only gen you need to load bank, then buying several 240V heaters and wiring them appropriately might be one option to look at.
For example, you can buy 10kw heaters from Lowes for about $200 each. 3 of those would be a full load, 2 of them would be more than adequate for an extended load test. You could add a 5kw heater to the mix as well if you wanted.

example:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/DuraHeat-10000-Watt-Electric-Garage-Heater-with-Thermostat-and-with-Energy-Saving-Setting/1001052624

Hey Coug,

Thanks again for the advice, your knowledge on these units is fantastic and I wish I had a fraction of it! The NordicAir 3 ton ECU looks really cool. I agree it won't work with my conversion but having something like that around even just for its heating and cooling is pretty slick.

I did look at building a load bank, Iwith dryer heaters and have it so i could turn on in 5kw increments but not 100% sure how to wire it from looking at some of the DIY threads so buying something is a safer bet.

The heaters are not a bad choice if i cant find a real load bank in my budget. There is a 30kw on eBay right now but id really like 40kw just to push the generator a little bit from time to time.

 

[Coug]

Hey Coug,

Thanks again for the advice, your knowledge on these units is fantastic and I wish I had a fraction of it! The NordicAir 3 ton ECU looks really cool. I agree it won't work with my conversion but having something like that around even just for its heating and cooling is pretty slick.

I did look at building a load bank, Iwith dryer heaters and have it so i could turn on in 5kw increments but not 100% sure how to wire it from looking at some of the DIY threads so buying something is a safer bet.

The heaters are not a bad choice if i cant find a real load bank in my budget. There is a 30kw on eBay right now but id really like 40kw just to push the generator a little bit from time to time.

even with just the 30kw unit you can always add additional load using heaters or other resistive load devices. You won't know the exact output, but the gauges on the control panel of the gen should be close enough for what you are doing.

 

[shanekarl]

even with just the 30kw unit you can always add additional load using heaters or other resistive load devices. You won't know the exact output, but the gauges on the control panel of the gen should be close enough for what you are doing.

Fair point...

It seem like the HDT 30KW is the cheapest load bank right now... its my least favorite but looks fairly simple if it will do the 240v at 30kw. I will read more on it tomorrow and see if i stumble across anything else.

 

[Coug]

Fair point...

It seem like the HDT 30KW is the cheapest load bank right now... its my least favorite but looks fairly simple if it will do the 240v at 30kw. I will read more on it tomorrow and see if i stumble across anything else.

I looked up the HDT load bank. Looks like it is 3 phase only (unless there is a different one on epay I'm not seeing)

add a couple hundred more to that for the cable and plug.

 

[Dieselmeister]

I use a surplus Fostoria industrial heater just like this one - Surplus Fostoria FES-1524-1A Space Heater (Not sure if I can post the complete link, but this one is on GovPlanet right now). This is a 15kw 240v single phase heater. The heater consists of six 2500 watt heating elements controlled by two contactors. By adding some heavy duty switches, you can have a load bank in 2500 watt steps up to 15 kw. It also does a great job heating my workshop. They go for pennys on the dollar, and are almost new. I picked up 2 for $80.

 

[Guyfang]

HDT= Three phase only. WAY too expensive.

 

[jmenende]

I just searched the site for loadbanks and see most people are DIYing them. Outside of DIY i was wondering what models most people are using.

I have found the A427a on eBay and was wondering if there was any other models I might consider? Also my mep-005 has been modified for single phase 120/240 - will that make a difference with the military 3 phase loadbanks?

Out of curiosity I saw a video of the below loadbank on youtube would anyone happen to know the model number of this one and any others that might work for me?

Thanks!

View attachment 828474

I own the load bank in the picture. I purchased it off gp a year ago and polished it up. Now i have it mounted in a trailer for portability. Its a great unit and it was like new in the inside. It has made my work way easier in the shop and i can test all the way up to 100kw. It is a 3 phase unit that powers from the test unit or an external 3 phase source. They are hard to find in gp and i chose it over the other ones with electrical boards which are expensive to repair. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
I use a Essex A427 load bank. Works great single phase or 3 phase.

(2) Acquired a Military surplus load bank | SteelSoldiers

 

[shanekarl]

Howdy,
I use a Essex A427 load bank. Works great single phase or 3 phase.

(2) Acquired a Military surplus load bank | SteelSoldiers

I have seen your post - very nice setup! there is an a427 on eBay right now just trying to decide how much it’s worth to me

 

[reset2]

Might be easy for someone or difficult to source, but I use a residential air handler from a central AC unit. Most are 240 volt 10 kw some are 15 kw. Within the unit will be 1, 2, or three 5 kw resistance coils that the units blower will blow over to cool. Most have sequencers to stage in, but a couple switches and contactors will be a good load bank. HVAC contractors will have units from changeouts that are usually headed to the steel scrap yard to be had for cheap. I have a HVAC license and come across these ever so often.

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[Guyfang]

A427. My great love!