- 6,861
- 696
- 113
- Location
- Stratford/Connecticut
Leave it on normal and see if you have voltage at the governor fuel solenoid coil conmection.
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
so I just replaced every fuel line with brand new ones. Still running on only cold start. When I unplug the governor control and it's on normal, I don't hear any action but when I do it on cold start, I can hear the governor control actuating inside the IP. Any experience with this?Look for cracked fuel lines. Maybe getting air in somewhere.
i did clean out the catch by taking out the screw on top and cleaning the screen and inside. I'm going to get a new oring deal for it in the morning just in case since it doesn't look brand new. If that doesn't do the trick, what else could it be? How do I get the governor actuator to show voltage when on normal so it will actuate the IP and allow it to start?Did you clean out the fuel pump catch? Could be a bad fuel pump. On high idle it's enough to overcome it.
should I take the magnetic pickup out and clean it? Does the TM specify how to test and adjust it correctly like it does with the mep generators?Maybe the speed sensor magnetic pickup.
I'm guessing that module is under the control panel? Any idea on what pins to check?Make sure the signal is making its way to the governor module. For some reason the governor isn't opening the fuel solenoid if there is only voltage at the solenoid when you crank on cold start. Could be a bad connection somewhere. Could be the governor. The manual doesn't have step by step troubleshooting like the mep manuals. It's more of pick and swap diagnostics.
this thing is frustrating the heck out of me. If I can figure this thing out then I already have it sold.Not really.
si looking under the panel on the speed control unit, pins a and b are labeled actuator. When the selector switch is on normal, I don't get any voltage at those 2 pins. When it's on cold start, I get 22 volts. Would this be an indication that the speed control box is bad? I've rotated all relays around in case one was bad and no change. I'd be hesitant to put 24 volts straight to those a and b pins when it's on normal to see if it will work because I'm afraid of frying somethingNot really.
You can take the fuel solenoid out and it will run. When you crank on normal setting there should be voltage at the actuator contacts. The speed controller varies the voltage to control engine speed vs load so you can't just apply voltage and expect it to work. Gotta look at the schematic in the manual and figure out what sensors will prevent start or swap in a known good speed control and see if that's the issue.