Global Warming and Deuce Air

[Desert Deuce]

Sure it will!

I used one on my motorhome to run the rooftop unit whilst underway. And the ice cream truck guys use 'em day in and day out to operate their freezers.

Really, thanks for that info. I'll look into it.

 

[m16ty]

A squirt bottle, a light T shirt, kick open the windshield, roll down the windows, open the vents. Squirt some water on the T shirt and turn yourself into an old fashioned water cooler... cost effective, but sucks sitting in traffic!

Roll up your windows and close the vents but leave the windshields open. Kenny taught me this trick a long time ago and it works. You'll be much cooler with the windows up and the windshields open. It pressurizes the cab and keeps the hot air from coming in through all the holes. A deuce is really quite comfortable this way as long as you keep moving.

I just think adding a/c to a deuce is just more trouble than it's worth. It's going to cost more than most people gave for the whole truck. The deuce cab wasn't built very tight even when new. Even if you get a get a system to work you're going to have to hold in that cool air somehow

 

[Desert Deuce]

I've been using the presurize the cab trick for years. It works. I found that opening the drivers window and the passenger windshield works best at highway speed. I drove my XM816 on a 2000 mile cross coutry trip 3 years ago in the summer. it was 100 degrees outside in places, and ALOT hotter inside the cab, felt like about 120. I sealed all the incoming air holes, floor and firewall. That really helped, I drank gallons of water, filled up the passenger floor well with empty water bottles every day. Trip was 4.5 days.

I live in phoenix and it's 100 and above every single day 5 months straight here. Usually 105 to 110. I don't mind the heat, or else I wouldn't live here.

An AC solution would allow me to drive in the summer here more than the occational trip.

 

[OPCOM]

There is a well thought of outfit that makes custom AC for hotrods and vintage cars. It is called Vintage Air (I think). They specialize in making kits that fit into old cars with a minimum of trouble and that don't ruin the collector look. I have no idea of what they might say, but they could be worth a call. This would be a whole new market for them. Maybe they would give you a price break for being their development mule for the MV hobby!

I agree that they could create a product line for this but they'd have to ramp up the BTUs. Their stuff is made for cars and pickup trucks and is way too small real comfort in a deuce or 5T unless you consider 80 to be 'cool'. Most such a/c add-ons are about 10,000-13,000BTU. You need 24,000-30,000BTU in a truck or its a waste of money. Insulation will help but the side windows always leak. Even if everything is trued up, it will eventually get loose again. They were not designed for keeping a good seal.

I been looking at red dot and others for the bigger stuff, and more or less resigned to a large evaporator in the cab and a condenser mounted either on the passenger fender or underneath somewhere with a stone grille on it. The cab roof of mine is reserved for something else. About the cab roof, check the weight of a red dot condensing unit and it's easy to see that the roof will need reinforcement.

 

[3dAngus]

I think I would be happy with a unit that could just blow the cold air on me with a fan strong enough to reach. It wouldn't matter so much if the cab could not hold it. Placement would be key, fan must be forceful enough, and vents must be adjustable. It need be in front of me in lieu of under the seat. Roof top is not an option or I would consider just hooking up a RV roof air system.

Anyway, I've been looking at some of those Schumacher PSI-2000 2000 Watt power inverter systems at 2000 watt and they are really neat. One of those would run an A/C unit that would cool the entire back bed of a deuce when camping, with a regular window air conditioner at 8000btu. WalMart has some of the best prices at $309 compared to $488 at Advanced Auto. They convert from 12vdc though, so one might have to have a couple of spare and fully recharged 12v batteries on the side to run it all night in deuce or M105 while camping out. For $500 plus your own batteries it would solve a camping problem with the heat at night.

 

[m-35tom]

thanks clinto, i recently upgraded the evaporator to 22,220 btu, and now have 28° temp on coils. even with the cab basicly uninsulated (hard top) it is real nice on a 98° day. all for around $600.

tom

 

[Trailboss]

Goldeneagle used a 24 volt inverter for a window unit in his M820
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/5-ton-up/42982-redneck-c-tool-boxes-my-m820a2.html

 

[frodobaggins]

Goldeneagle used a 24 volt inverter for a window unit in his M820
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/5-ton-up/42982-redneck-c-tool-boxes-my-m820a2.html

He also said the temp was about 80 when moving

 

[Flyingvan911]

With my tarp on I open the back window a few inches and all the air pushed in and down my neck and back. It feels very nice.

Most A/C systems that will work for the deuce are expensive. I say open the windows and try to take a route with minimal stops.

 

[EF-5]

Any chance this could work if the duct work is ran properly, and is powered through a heavy duty inverter.

American Comfort Worldwide 8,000 BTU Portable Air Conditioner with Heater - ACW200CH at The Home Depot

 

[frodobaggins]

Any chance this could work if the duct work is ran properly, and is powered through a heavy duty inverter.

American Comfort Worldwide 8,000 BTU Portable Air Conditioner with Heater - ACW200CH at The Home Depot

Yes, but with only 8000 btu, you will need to seal and insulate the cab VERY VERY well.

 

[mckeeranger]

Roll up your windows and close the vents but leave the windshields open. Kenny taught me this trick a long time ago and it works. You'll be much cooler with the windows up and the windshields open. It pressurizes the cab and keeps the hot air from coming in through all the holes. A deuce is really quite comfortable this way as long as you keep moving.

I tried this yesterday, and it really works. I bet the inside cab temperature was 10-15 degrees lower than having the windows open, sucking the hot air through the floor and firewall holes.

Thanks for the tip.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I tried this yesterday, and it really works. I bet the inside cab temperature was 10-15 degrees lower than having the windows open, sucking the hot air through the floor and firewall holes.

Thanks for the tip.

Not only this, it shuts down the radiant heater that the deuce has. Try this on your next road outing. Drive around for a while with the side window open. When you stop, note the temp on the transfer case shifter. Next roll up everything but a front window, leave it open to the first detent (about 4") and continue your drive. You will notice the cab gets cools off quick but it will continue to cool as the air rushing out all of the holes in the cab starts to cool the surrounding sheetmetal. Again note the transfer case shifter, it will be cool to the touch. When evening comes I adjust the cab temp by opening and closing the side window. This is one of those tips thats worth a "C" note on a hot day.

 

[Jump Start]

Just heard recently that it has been so hot in GA that the trees are whistling for dogs
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[mckeeranger]

Just heard recently that it has been so hot in GA that the trees are whistling for dogs
​

But October 19-23, Union Point Georgia will be the coolest place around.

 

[3dAngus]

Turns out, even on the hottest days, these experienced drivers are fully right. Opening the front window and cracking the drivers and passengers windows did it for me. It is difficult to believe just be reading it and not personally experiencing it for myself, that in 96 degree weather it would be cool enough to drive without sweating like a pig, but it is, it works, and they were fully right in their experience and analysis.

Now, what about air conditioning the bed for camping? Hummmmm....

 

[Recovry4x4]

Turns out, even on the hottest days, these experienced drivers are fully right. Opening the front window and cracking the drivers and passengers windows did it for me. It is difficult to believe just be reading it and not personally experiencing it for myself, that in 96 degree weather it would be cool enough to drive without sweating like a pig, but it is, it works, and they were fully right in their experience and analysis.

Now, what about air conditioning the bed for camping? Hummmmm....

A significant number of years ago member Joe Trapp convoyed up to Aberdeen in his deuce, which incidentally is now owned by Clinto. Instead of a rear curtain he outfitted the end with a plywood wall and cut in a window shaker A/C. It was a big step up from sweating all night but not overly effective in the sunlight.

 

[Barrman]

One more thing to add about the windshield open, everything else closed cooling system. Kenny showed Kwai, Sermis and myself that trick at the 2007 GA rally. We then drove the M35 25 hours straight back to Texas. We actually started getting cold during the night on I-10 along the Coast.

The trouble is that while going down the road at Warp Speed, 56 mph, it is hard to adjust the windshield. Then after you do manage to steer with your leg while both hands are 3 feet apart adjusting the window. It will then SLAM closed in your face. Leaving you with no air at all.

My solution was to put an empty water bottle in there and let air out to adjust the 1-3 inch opening so it was just right for middle of the night driving. I think Kwai used his cell phone to keep the gap open and I have no clue what Sermis did because I don't think he got out of the air conditioned Super Duty unless it was full day light.

 

[DHennon]

I am in the beginning stages of adding A/C to my deuce. I bought a 100% complete system down to the lockwashers (less freon) from a SS in California. He had 2. Paid $300 plus $300 to have it shipped to Florida. It is a system from the newest version of the M35. I went to the local NG motor pool and they were kind enough to let me look at one of their units with A/C installed.

The leg room in the cab will be a bit tight on the pass side, but will work. It is a definite tradeoff. I have to finish fabricating the compressor bracket, and I am taking pics as I progress and will post some this weekend. It is a 24V system and does not appear to be too difficult of an intall for someone with intermediate mechanical skills. It comes with a heater as well so I am looking at removing the original one in the deuce.