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That first picture would be of my nos harness and card I have for sale.
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Glow plug card
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cucvrus
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If I am the Rick you are referring to. I hope to tell you man. I have a few and sold a few. I may have added a few lights but I kept the original harness and have not hacked one yet. Un hacked a many jacked up harnesses and saved a few CUCV's from inevitable doom. Now I am down to my last 3. I am NOT looking for any more. Have a Great Day.
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Richard; Just sent you a PM.
Oerthedge21
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I know this thread is a little old, don't know if anyone still sees it, but I got my new gp harness and relay today. Only cost me 100$ for both of them, as compared to over 120$ on eBay just for the harness. Gonna try to install it today, seems easy enough but who knows. 
Oerthedge21
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New glow plug harness, new issues
Some of you may remember me from the glow plug card thread not long ago in which we discovered that somebody had totally remived the gp card from my 1010. Well I bought a fresh gp harness and soleniod and wired it as per the wiring diagram in my TM. The card (aftermarket) has a post for a ground wire for the addition of a manual gp button without hacking wires. I did install a button for a backup with the new system. So here's the issue. The card doesn't seem to want to light the plugs. The button will click the relay and send power to them, but the card has yet to do so. More troubling though, is the fact that the dark blue with that runs to the WTS light from the card gets continuos power once the key is on, even though the GPs aren't getting power without the button pushed. Anyone have any idea what might be happening? Let me know if you need any more info on what's going on, I'd like to get this resolved soon.
Some of you may remember me from the glow plug card thread not long ago in which we discovered that somebody had totally remived the gp card from my 1010. Well I bought a fresh gp harness and soleniod and wired it as per the wiring diagram in my TM. The card (aftermarket) has a post for a ground wire for the addition of a manual gp button without hacking wires. I did install a button for a backup with the new system. So here's the issue. The card doesn't seem to want to light the plugs. The button will click the relay and send power to them, but the card has yet to do so. More troubling though, is the fact that the dark blue with that runs to the WTS light from the card gets continuos power once the key is on, even though the GPs aren't getting power without the button pushed. Anyone have any idea what might be happening? Let me know if you need any more info on what's going on, I'd like to get this resolved soon.
cucvrus
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I have never seen wiring like that on a glow plug solenoid. How does the relay get power? Does that blue wire run to the wait light in the dash? What about the hot wire to the top of the solenoid? And has this been converted to 12 volt? Hot Rodding and modification may be able to assist. Good Luck. The TM's don't show that as the correct way to wire the glow plug system. Trying to help but am baffled by the set up.
joshuak
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I'd double check the GP electrical schematic and the wiring on the bottom stud of your GP relay.
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About your 12v feed, there is nothing wrong with bypassing the resistor bank, IMHO, but I would use a larger gauge cable and feed from another 12v source.
A couple threads on the matter:
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?134320-A-muddy-resistor-bypass-overkill-is-a-GOOD-thing
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?121398-GP-Resistor-Bank-Bypass
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About your 12v feed, there is nothing wrong with bypassing the resistor bank, IMHO, but I would use a larger gauge cable and feed from another 12v source.
A couple threads on the matter:
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?134320-A-muddy-resistor-bypass-overkill-is-a-GOOD-thing
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?121398-GP-Resistor-Bank-Bypass
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Oerthedge21
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Yes the truck is 12v now, that blue wire that goes to the large top post is a 12v feed from the junction block on the firewall, it was already there as a power for the previous setup so I just reused it instead of making a while new wire from the buss bar on the pass side of the firewall. I don't have any larger cable right now so I just did that as a temporary setup. The blue with at the wait light is getting constant power for some reason, for as long as the key is on. The pink black that runs to the wait light is also receiving constant power.
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In the photo of the relay, it appears there is a black wire going to the terminal with the orange wires. Where does that wire go? Is it connected to the Wait light? If so, it should not.
You will need to remove any and all additional wiring, splices or other hacks from the civilian controller modification. That means tracing out every wire from the new controller to every point it needs to be properly connected to. I think you have some mods still connected to the new controller that are hampering the functions.
I merged this thread so we have all of the information from the civi mods here as well.
This is the correct schematic for the GP system:
You will need to remove any and all additional wiring, splices or other hacks from the civilian controller modification. That means tracing out every wire from the new controller to every point it needs to be properly connected to. I think you have some mods still connected to the new controller that are hampering the functions.
I merged this thread so we have all of the information from the civi mods here as well.
This is the correct schematic for the GP system:
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Oerthedge21
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That black wire was on there for voltage testing purposes so I could reach it while turnjng the key in cab (I was working alone) it does not attach to anything. I had removed all of the hacked working o could find. As I said, I bought a whole new harness, I didn't try to fix what was destroyed. However, the blue wire to the wait light isn't part of the gp harness so I have to trace it and make sure it hasn't been hacked apart, didn't get time to yesterday as it was getting late when I was finished with the install
Oerthedge21
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Also, my wiring differs slightly in the power to the relay. Since the truck is 12v the resistors are gone so the wire just goes from power bar to relay
Oerthedge21
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I'm getting power from both the pink black and the blue wire at the relay when I turn the key on, it's being supplied from the truck somewhere, not coming through the relay. I thought the blue wire was supposed to be a ground so why there's power to it I'm not sure
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Power on the Pink/black wire is normal. This powers the GP card and the relay.
The GP card sends a ground command on the Light Blue wire to the GP relay to close it. The Light Blue wire will have voltage on it (thru the coil of the relay) if the GP card is not sending a ground command to the relay. The Light Blue wire is not directly connected to ground. It gets ground from the GP card when the card gives the command to close the relay.
The Wait light gets +12 volts from the fuse box all the time on the Pink/black wire, the GP card sends a ground command to light it via the Dark Blue wire.
All the Orange wires should be on the bottom large terminal of the GP relay and the top large terminal should have +12 volts in your situation.
The Yellow wire to the GP card is from the temperature sensor on the engine.
The Black wire to the GP card is ground and the ground from the temperature sensor.
Oerthedge21
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Thats exactly how I have it wired, must be the temp sensor because I don't think it's quite correct. The temp sensor is supposed to be in the pass side head right? Because it's currently using one that's in the pass side of the head but it's up on top instead of on the side like it is in most pics
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Factory location of the temp sensor was on the drivers side head near the firewall.
Oerthedge21
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Driver's side? I thought it was lower passenger. I'll have to find a new one then because there's no longer a senior over there I don't think
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The sensor to the rear of the engine on the passenger side of the block is for the IP advance/high idle. It's actually a switch and not a thermister.
The GP sensor changes resistance value with temp.
The GP sensor changes resistance value with temp.
Oerthedge21
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So I'm getting constant power at the pink black wire to the wait light, but the blue with is also getting constant power, and the light doesn't come on when I hold the button for the glow plugs. I still have no self functionality of the card either, I believe it's due to the temp sensor though, pretty sure it doesn't have the right one
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Pull the card and see if the voltage on the Dark Blue wire goes away.
Do the LED's on the card light up?
Do the LED's on the card light up?
Oerthedge21
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With the card removed the voltage on the blue is gone, just getting power on the pink black like I'm supposed to. As for the LEDs, the green one comes on and stay on when I turn the key, and the red one illuminates when I hit the button for the GPs. The orange one does not come on. According to the instructions, the green means the board is getting power, the red means the relay is for when the relay is closed and the plugs are heating, and the orange is for when the wait light is supposed to be on, so for some reason the card isn't getting power to the light or something, I'm gonna try playing with the card settings and seeing if it changes anything fir the better