Glow Plug Relay Only Thing Missing?

[Bownut]

I covered that missing wire in post 6. I drew an orange line in the pic. That feeds all of the 12V for the cab.

Sorry for overlooking that. So I'll bring the power from that clipped wire on the 2nd battteries negative terminal to the left side of the fusible link as you showed.

Then is it better to pull the power to the GPR from that post or run another directly from the possitive of the first battery?

All other wires look like they found the right home?

 

[Bownut]

I merged your 2 threads.

It's best to continue one thread, as can be seen by post#19.

Thanks, I was going to continue the GPR one, but since others were giving me other things to check in regards to the mechanical side, I went with a more general one.

But thanks for merging, as I'm still getting the info I need.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Many (most) draw the power fron that 12V block on the firewall. I did on one truck. On the other I ran a dedicated 10GA wire direct.

 

[Bownut]

Thanks.

So one more question in general on the 24 volt system. THe cab is 12 volt then from the fusible link, but are the headlights and running lights coming off 24?

The reason I ask is because this will be my hunting and plow truck once it's on the road and I have to transfer that over to this. Lift solenoid will be run off the first battery like I have on my current K30, but what I wonder about are the lights? Are the headlights and running lights on 12 volt so I can tap in, or are those fed with 24? I may just run the lights on the bracket off a toggle with 12 volt like running accessory lights as the plow is only on when it's being used.

 

[doghead]

Lights are 12v.

 

[Warthog]

Now the only thing on your truck that is 24v is your starter and the GEN2 alternator wiring. There rest of the electrical wiring is standard 12v stuff.

To your questions in post #15

1 - On a stock system the 12v power for the entire truck comes off the battery connector of the rear battery negative terminal. It snakes along the firewall over to the diamond shapes 12v Positive Terminal next to the Glowplug Relay. You say it is cut off. You will need to run a new power feed (don't forget to include a fusible link). You can run it from the front battery positive terminal of the rear battery negative terminal.

2 - The three screws on the firewall where used to mount the GP resistor pack. Since yours resistor pack is removed, no need for the screws.

3 - The duct taped purple wire is the diode for the water-in-fuel circuit.



Where is the BIG red wire next to the fuel filter going to? *** - Reread you post. It is the 24v feed to the starter. Normally it is much longer and is attached to the 24v Positive Buss Bar next to the fuel filter.

When you had your starter tested, did they test it as a 24v or a 12v? It makes a big difference.

 

[Bownut]

You will need to run a new power feed (don't forget to include a fusible link). You can run it from the front battery positive terminal of the rear battery negative terminal.

What is the recommended size? I see one thread mentioned 30....

Where is the BIG red wire next to the fuel filter going to? *** - Reread you post. It is the 24v feed to the starter. Normally it is much longer and is attached to the 24v Positive Buss Bar next to the fuel filter.

When you had your starter tested, did they test it as a 24v or a 12v? It makes a big difference.

They clipped both wires to the starter to ease removal, so I dindn't have as much to work with. There is enought to go to the end connection on the bus bar, though.

The guy that did the testing on the starter just bench tested via 12V to make sure it engaged and turned over, which it did. He also looked a couple other things over while I was there and didn't find anything that looked questionable. He was also the one that commented that maybe they pulled it to do tranny work, which is what I concluded last night. It's in there now, though and ready to test. If it doesn't turn over properly, I'll just drop it out again and test it properly with 24V. He also said I should just ditch it and go with a 12V off the first battery if I continue to have problems. It's will be my plow truck and used a lot in the winter, but it will live in my heated shop when not being used, so that should help with any cold weather starting.

 

[Bownut]

So good news....got the last of the electrical hooked up tonight. Threw juice at it and things appeared to act like they should. Dash lit up as you see in pict below. Only thing that didn't light up was the "Wait" light, but am wondering that the mid 70's here right now kept it off. Is that accurate to think?

All the lights lit up as they should, blackouts and normal, high and low, brake, etc.....only thing that didn't work was the turn signals as the stalk on the column is messed up. Guess I'll be swapping that with another I have.

It did turn over very nicely, didn't make any bad noises, but didn't fire. Assuming there is no fuel. Tank sounded empty, and since the gas gauge is pegged to the right as you see below, I can't say I know what if any is in there. Was reading through the manual tonight and I see the process for purging the filter. That will be the next step to see if any comes out, or if what is in there is watery.

But again....good progress! Thanks again to all that have contributed.

 

[Bownut]

So is the wait light supposed to come on every time you turn the key to try starting? I have yet to see it come on.

I do notice a warm smell if I turn the key on, but it's very faint. Didn't know if that was from the glow plugs or?? Nothing I've found is hot to the touch, though. Maybe I'll take my thermo gauge and do some hot spot checking tomorrow night.

Going to get some diesel tomorrow to toss in and see if she fires. Opened the fuel drain on the filter and barely anything came out. Wasn't dry, but only a small amount came out, and that that did looked good. Also didn't smell any fuel after turning over several times so am assuming it's empty. Gauge doesn't work and the tank didn't sound like it was full. Also pushed a hose down into the tank through the filler neck and it came back up dry. Will toss some in, purge out the air according to the manual, and try it again.

 

[cliffyp]

Even down here in South Texas my "wait" light always came on for a first start. If I'd been driving and the engine was hot then I wouldn't get a wait.

Have you checked to see if you've got a good bulb?

 

[Warthog]

Have you checked to see if the GP controller card is installed? Since everything else was removed they may have grabbed the card also.

 

[Hasdrubal]

Only a little fuel out of your filter drain. You'll have to bleed the air out of your injector lines. Remove glow plugs, this will lessen the load on the batteries and its easier on the starter. Put a piece of cardboard along the inner fenders for the fuel to spay on. Less cleanup later and easier to see the pattern. Crack your injectors and don't tighten them until you get a good spray pattern. Keep your cranking cycles short.

 

[Bownut]

Well, that would probably be safe to assume! Like you said, she was robbed of all the other things GP related.

I'll look tonight. Right now I just want to see if she'll fire, and with the temps at where they are now, I'd assume she'd start even without the glow plug preheat cycle as long as she has fuel and good juice for cranking over.

 

[doghead]

Wrong assumption.

It has indirect injection, and needs GPs to start anytime it has not been run recently(last few hours).

 

[Bownut]

Ok, so no card, no gp, no start.

Guess verification that the GP card is there or not is my first step.

Thanks.

 

[Warthog]

If the card is missing, you can install a manual switch. Very easy to do. The GP relay is hot when the key is on.

All you need is is to provide a ground. That is what the GP controller card does. It provides a ground to the relay when needed.

The small blue wire is the ground wire for the relay. You can just use a wire to test or rig up a wire with a switch in it.

 

[Bownut]

The card is there. Now that I have the wiring schematic for this, I'll do some checking to see if that fuse to the light is burnt out or the bulb. Also I can bypass as you said to at least test to see if the module is bad.

 

[Warthog]

There is a great set-by-step testing procedure in the TM 9-2320-289-20 tech manual

 

[Bownut]

Oh **** Ya! She's alive!

After Warthog tossed up that last schematic, I started digging under the dash and found two blown fuses. Threw a couple new ones in, hooked the battery cables back up, and everything lit up on the dash.

Figured what the heck, once the "wait" light went out, turned the key and she turned over. NOthing on the first, a little quick stumble on the second try, and then she fired and settled into a nice diesel purrrrr on the third. I let it run for about 15 minutes without issue as I was checking various things out.

At least now I'm back into my comfort zone for the rest of the little repairs. See I had some tranny drips under it after running so going to look at that. And the t-case was being stubborn going from N back into 2Hi. But I'll address those this weekend and then get her out on the road for a trial run. If all goes well, I start with the modifications and transfer of my plow over to it.

Pretty pumped and I can't thank you guys enough for the information and FAST responses to my questions.

Hopefully I can repay the favors on here some day.

 

[Warthog]

Great news. Good job!!!

The CUCVs are really very simple machines once you understand them.


Here we are many mile from you and with just a few pictures we where able to get the truck up and running.