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Glow Plug Tech Article

Sam27

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85-m1028 said:
Sam27 said:
What is the purpose of the indicator light relay? Can't you just go straight to the light from the glow plug voltage?
My guess is they didn't want the light to get zapped with 24v, so they ran the indicator light of the 12v side. This 12v lead comes from the light and get's grounded by the "military style controler card" to keep it isolated...

The relay was just a convenient way to use the glow plug voltage to ground the indicator light...

That really is the simple trick to intergrating the civy system...
The article was for a conversion to civ though, right? I assumed "battery voltage" going to the civ controller would be 12V.

Besides, there are only two wires going to the relay, which makes no sense to me. If it was to convert 24V to 12V, I'd expect 24V, 12V and ground to go to the relay (24V switches in the 12V).
 

mangus580

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Ahh... in the Tech Article. I think he put that relay in there, so that something wouldnt accidentaly backfeed.

My honest opinion is.... replace the controller, and let it work as designed. www.flmv.net has new ones, and there is also a rumor in the works of someone making reproduction ones. Mine has worked since day one, and it works great. I wouldnt have it any other way.
 

CUCVFAN

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Sam27 said:
mangus580 said:
woah.... what relay are we talking about???
It says "relay for dash light" or something like that in the picture.
Civilian trucks supply 12V from the output of the GP relay to the light. The light only lights when the GP's are on because the light is grounded. In the military version, the card grounds the signal coming through the light to light it. So, a relay is used to ground the light (turn it on) only when the plugs are actually fired. The output of the GP relay activates the relay, which grounds the light and turns it on.
 

mangus580

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Actually I have found that the light vs the plugs being on in the military setup has no pattern. The wait light appears to be on some sort of 'timer'. On the civvy's, the glow plug light is in direct sync. If the plugs are on, the light is on.
 

Sam27

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Okay thanks. My truck is already converted, but actually converted so it's wired like the civ version. The tech article must be describing more of a hybrid situation I guess.

If this controller fails some day, I'll consider a fully manual push button setup.
 

CUCVFAN

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mangus580 said:
Actually I have found that the light vs the plugs being on in the military setup has no pattern. The wait light appears to be on some sort of 'timer'. On the civvy's, the glow plug light is in direct sync. If the plugs are on, the light is on.
I never said they were in sync. :wink: I was merely pointing out that the civilian system sends +12V to the light, while the military version provides a ground for the +12V coming from the light. It does this, as you point out, on some sort of timed schedule.

Sam27 said:
Okay thanks. My truck is already converted, but actually converted so it's wired like the civ version. The tech article must be describing more of a hybrid situation I guess.
It's only a hybrid in the sense that it uses some stock wiring and relies on grounding the light, instead of powering it.
 

M725

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RE: UPDATE

NOW FOR THE CUCV INFORMATION CONCERNING THE BYPASSING OF THE GLOWBAR
RESISTOR MOUNTED IN THE FIREWALL IN A HEATSHIELD:
POWER SOURCE FOR THE GLOW PLUG SYSTEM


Two of the most common CUCV-owner questions are, "Why did GM take the glow
plug power off the voltage dropping resistor?" and "Why not just take 12 vdc
off the normal vehicle wiring?"


GM didn't take the wire off of the resistor. What one generally encounters
is an "in house/shop" modification. This modification enhances vehicle
starting by directly routing the 12 volts to the glowplug network. The
existing resistor that has been bypassed by this method would drop the 24
volt source to 12 volts before reaching the glow plugs but this created a
problem of the the glow plugs not heating up to proper temperature all of
the time.


Here is why the resistor is used: All M-series vehicles use a NATO slave
plug to jump/slave another vehicle. If the batteries are stone-dead in a
CUCV, 24 volts will still feed the glow plug circuit and it will start when
it is slaved in its' original, unmodified condition.


It should be noted, however, that even though this modification allows the
vehicle to start easier, there is a tradeoff. If both CUCV batteries are
weak or dead and you have to slave the NATO plug with the modified setup, 12
volts will not be delivered to the glow plug circuit. This is because the
dead batteries will cause the entire 24 volts to drop to zero at the center
connection of the two batteries (where the 12 volts is sourced) until they
are charged. This is important to keep in mind when jumping off a vehicle
with this modification as it will not start through the slave recepticle
until the batteries are charged to some degree.


The modification removes the red wire from the output of the glowbar
resistor and connects it directly to the 12-volt buss (above the glowplug
relay). The terminal fits perfectly and the wire is the right length.
 

Braunchitis

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mapaliz

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Hello, i tried to get the article but i couldnt. Im converting a HMMWV to a 6.5 12v engine and need to know hhow to set up the glow plug controller for the late models. Thank you
 
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