GM 10 Bolt with Air Lockers

[RickTheEngineer]

I have a question for those of you that have spent a lot of time with the ol' 10 Bolters on the M1009. I was curious on how you all think a 10 Bolt will respond to an air locker... Reliability and strength wise. I run 33's, 4 inch lift, stock M1009 otherwise. Let's set aside anything installation and options for a moment, and consider the strength of the internals. I hear a lot of mixed reviews on this kind of thing, so more opinions would be awesome! Thanks.

 

[Gripy]

If you're worried about strength then I'd go with a 14bolt full floater. If you find one from a suburban you don't even need to move the spring perches.

 

[RickTheEngineer]

I could axle swap, but I am just legitimately curious what you all think about the 10 Bolt. It's not going to see any huge abuse per se, just the occasional hill climb really

 

[camoyj7]

10 bolt's are weak and broke with stock size tires. I would run it as it is and wouldn't waste good money on it. I agree with Gripy spend the money on an axle swap.

 

[bachman502]

In my opinion, that would be a foolish investment on an air locker for a 10 Bolt. Use that money towards either 3/4 or 1 ton axles.

 

[Csm Davis]

I think you would have a better axle, the gov-bomb is the biggest weakness in a 10 bolt in my opinion. I would pick a different axle to build if I were to put that kind of money in one. Are you looking at the front or rear?

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[Rustyshackelford]

I have also heard tales of 10 bolts breaking during regular street use. Not a good omen for air lockers and hill climbs.

 

[The FLU farm]

So far I've only broke one 10-bolt, but wouldn't put any money into one. Except in a front application, which I did using a True-Trac.
There's a big difference between the forces applied to the parts when running a locked diff versus a limited slip, even one that really works, like the True-Trac.
Ultimately it's really up to the driver what holds up and what doesn't.

 

[UNIMOG-GUY]

Just spend the money once on a set of M1028's or M1031's axles. I played the upgrade axles/tires game in a CJ-7 and wish I would have just spent the money one time and gotten the Dana 60 front and rear that I ended up with. Instead of replace stock axles 1 time, then to Dana 44's then to the Dana 60's.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Here is my real world input. I have had govbomb failures and wheel bearing issues. Couple that with all the reported failures and it makes the 10 bolt look much less attractive at sinking money into. Since most of us have to operate on a budget, and laying out $1500 to $2200 on one ton axles, this would be my approach. The 14 bolt is stupid strong and mostly, stupid cheap. Couple that with the security of full floating axles and it's a win. Rims used can be had cheap for 8 lug stuff. Since the front axle isn't used much, you could find a 10 bolt that is 8 lug and it bolt right in. A savvy shopper could outfit their truck for a few hundred dollars. Now, I don't know the cost of an air locker for a 10 bolt vs a 14 bolt but I can say for certain that a 14 bolt Detroit NoSpin is among the cheapest. There are no 3.08 gears for the 14 bolts but 3.73 stuff pops up often. Just something to consider!

 

[Skinny]

For what you have listed, I don't think the front 10 bolt is terrible with that tire size, vehicle weight, and usage. A trutrac would be a good choice although they seem to be creeping up in price over the years. As far as the rear goes...wouldn't even bother. Junk, junk, and junk...even in stock trim. If you are building a light duty rig I'd probably go for a 6 lug semi floater. Even though it is a c-clip, its still a drop in option with a matching lug pattern that gets you in the game with some beef. Unless you are going full one ton, I'd stick to that with a diff of your choice.

I think for a fullsize rig like this you really only have two options. Go six lug like I mentioned above with something like 33's or go to a 35+ with full one tons. I personally feel that running a full floating 14 rear doesn't match well with an 8 lug 10 bolt or 44 front. The strength difference is too great. If you need that much beef in the rear then the front is marginal at best. I will say also that unless you are crawling or lifting tires with the type of wheeling you do, a trutrac is a great diff instead of going to a full locker like a Detroit or ARB.

 

[Eliteweapons]

swap out the 10 bolt and the 44. put in a dana 60 up front and a 14 bolt ff in the rear. Make sure you swap out the gov bomb in the 14 bolt too if it has one or it will cut your case in half when it breaks. I put a posi unit in the dana 60 and the no-spin in the 14 bolt. My truck is a Chevy 76 frame and drivetrain with an Chevy 82 square body.