I know this is an old thread, but do to the latest responses I had to say something here.
Please do not adjust your timing or any other adjustments to compensate the shifting jolt you get from 2nd to 3rd. Here's why,
The two torus halves (drive torus) and (driven torus) separate the main shaft and the input shaft or what I call the (driven torus shaft) in the transmission. Or the easiest way to remember this is when ever the REAR planetary reduction unit is in reduction, (Band On) the transmission is in ( full fliud coupling). The first thing we have to understand that the main shaft will always be truning, either in reduction 1.55 to 1 or in direct drive 1 to 1, when the clutch piston squeeze the clutch plates plates and stators together. This locks the engine input shaft to the main shaft in the planetary gear unit, this is called direct drive.
OK now that we see this, let's look at the main shaft. The main shaft has two ends. On the forward end, the drive torus is connected to it and on the rear end, the rear planetary gear unit clutch plate gear hub. Which means this The clutch plates are connected to the main shaft and the stator plates are connected to the drum and the drum is the ring gear to the planetary gears then to the transmission output shaft.
So when the rear planetary unit is in reduction for 1st, 2nd and in reverse, the clutch plates are turning but the drum and stators are not. Which means engine power can not reach the transmission output shaft going this way.
So the only way we can get the engine to turn the transmission output shaft is by the main shaft turning the drive torus on the front end of the main shaft. Then by fluid pressure the drive torus drives the driven torus which turns the driven torus shaft sun gear which turns the rear planetary gears which turn the transmission output shaft.
So it goes like this, engine power goes into the front of the transmission, into the front planetary gear unit, to the main shaft, out the front of the transmission, to the drive torus, THROUGH THE OIL, to the driven torus, back into the front of the transmission by the driven torus shaft, to the rear of the rear planetary unit, through the sun gear, planetary gears and stationary ring gear then and only then can output shaft turn.
Now when we go from 2nd to 3rd, we assist the torus halves and the transmission goes into direct drive by assisting the torus halves.
When we select 3rd we release the band on the rear drum and activate the rear clutch pistons, this squeezes the main shaft clutch plates which turn the drum and it's ring gear. Since the ring gear is turning 1.55 to 1 the planetary gears (connected to the output shaft) driven by driven torus shaft sun gear turns the output shaft to the same ratio. Due to the pressure on the driven torus shaft sun gear from the drive torus, it acts like a rotating locked sun gear.
When this happens, the planetary gears can't turn because the drum is locked to the main shaft. At the same time and the drive torus is supplying constant pressure to the driven torus and the driven torus shaft sun gear locking it from turning in the opposite direction, which in this case would be required for the planetary gears to rotate. This shows the main shaft and the drum’s ring gear are supplying the majority of the force to turn the output shaft.
If you are feeling a severe jolt, look at you throttle adjustment going into your transmission, make sure it's dead on. If it's out by an by a fraction, the shifting can jar your teeth out. When its adjusted properly, you can take the jolt out by lifting your foot off the gas pedal at the moment you feel it going to shift up. Then if it's going to down shift, apply a little more gas at the moment you feel it's going to shift.
By now I hope everyone is starting to understand the basics here.
Anyone who has been following my explanations on this transmission Please let me know if I'm getting the information out so every can understand it? If I need to do something different please let me know.
