combat32
Well-known member
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- Booneville AR.
Good lookin truck, wish you fellas could learn to drive on the correct side of the road,
But, you guys do brew some awesome beer!
But, you guys do brew some awesome beer!
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Goat in tropical QLD
- Thread starter PointnShoot4WD
- Start date
- 1,925
- 30
- 48
- Location
- Irmo, South Carolina
Spock,
I'm curious and interested in your project and intended use! Best wishes to you and your purchase.
Another topic: Your thread title mentions tropical Queensland, yet your member location is Brisbane. I've only visited the Gold and Sunshine coasts once, so maybe I'm a bit daft: Has Brisbane been affected by climate change or do you have property up further in the north?
Cheers and thanks for posting up.
Rick
I'm curious and interested in your project and intended use! Best wishes to you and your purchase.
Another topic: Your thread title mentions tropical Queensland, yet your member location is Brisbane. I've only visited the Gold and Sunshine coasts once, so maybe I'm a bit daft: Has Brisbane been affected by climate change or do you have property up further in the north?
Cheers and thanks for posting up.
Rick
Aussiecowboy
Member
- 163
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- Echuca VIC, Australia
We do drive on the correct side of the roadGood lookin truck, wish you fellas could learn to drive on the correct side of the road,
But, you guys do brew some awesome beer!
PointnShoot4WD
Member
- 150
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- BNE, Oz
Rick, you're right, BNE is officially sub-tropical... But compared to Sydney, Melbourne etc....
PointnShoot4WD
Member
- 150
- 12
- 18
- Location
- BNE, Oz
Thanks to a tax cheque, and a helpful backload, the Goat arrived at my door; it then got a dose of performance nerves and refused to start for half an hour. Blocked the cul-de-sac up with a low loader for half hour and all the neighbours got a good look.
I also got a good look on my last R&R, although not much work due to uni assignments and getting treated for a neglected bursitis in the shoulder.
Engine runs pretty well, starting is better with a battery charge and some practice. Also doesn't need the hood left up to pull the engine stop lever since I realigned the push rod bracket on top of the engine to get proper throw arc. No oil pressure via the factory switch and gauge, or engine temp. Previous owner had rigged an aftermarket gauge and mounted to the windscreen bracket.
Annoyingly it seems stuck in 6L, could be wind up, could be a linkage or worst case a transfer issue.
Tires look good, and no sign of play in the wheels I've lifted down the left side so I'm hoping bearings will be good.
Tailgate is a write off and some careless git punched a few holes in the floor of the carrier, but the dogs and kids enjoy jumping in and out of the back.
Spock
- 2,112
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- Maine USA
Try shifting while moving, mine doesn't like to shift without moving.
combat32
Well-known member
- 1,639
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- Booneville AR.
Looks good! Wish mine looked that good when I started.
PointnShoot4WD
Member
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- BNE, Oz
That could explain my problem, but i don't think so, no sign of extra mod to the fibreglass tunnel.
Spock
PointnShoot4WD
Member
- 150
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- BNE, Oz
Did try reversing, manual says stationary and neutral for low range select... when i get back the other side of the country i'll pick a "quiet" day, find an empty block nearby and try get some wheel slip and/or more reverse, see if that helps. No harm trying a rolling shift either.
If not, it's tunnel off to check linkages and then maybe hub checking time.
Spock
PointnShoot4WD
Member
- 150
- 12
- 18
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- BNE, Oz
US tailgate
So this was the state of the tailgate when i removed it, unsurprisingly the pins were a bit stiff to knock out.
Speaking of pins, anyone got a shot of the pin securing the right hand engine cover stay to the tractor? Mines missing, has a short bolt in for now.
Spock
So this was the state of the tailgate when i removed it, unsurprisingly the pins were a bit stiff to knock out.
Speaking of pins, anyone got a shot of the pin securing the right hand engine cover stay to the tractor? Mines missing, has a short bolt in for now.
Spock
PointnShoot4WD
Member
- 150
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- BNE, Oz
Attached is picture of the other end of the ring in pressure gauge, brass fitting against copper line didn't thrill me so i swapped it back to the factory sender unit attached to the engine mount brace, no movement on the dash indicator and one recalcitrant bolt holding the instrument panel in stopped that investigation short.
As you can see, some of the wiring will need some love too, don't think there's any grommets left where things pass through the carrier.
Spock
As you can see, some of the wiring will need some love too, don't think there's any grommets left where things pass through the carrier.
Spock
PointnShoot4WD
Member
- 150
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- BNE, Oz
And now for the mystery shot...
Looking down into the engine bay right hand side, i'm guessing the 1/8th copper line should attach up to the Donaldson filter and then to the missing indicator canister in the cab.
The taped off green 3/8th line comes from the top of the fuel tank, not the breather line (i traced that around the radiator) and a dumb ass place for a common connector line as liquid doesn't usually flow up hill. I checked the TM and i don't think it's a tap point for the ambulance heater unit (apart from this is a plated 561 not 792)... any ideas?
Spock
Looking down into the engine bay right hand side, i'm guessing the 1/8th copper line should attach up to the Donaldson filter and then to the missing indicator canister in the cab.
The taped off green 3/8th line comes from the top of the fuel tank, not the breather line (i traced that around the radiator) and a dumb ass place for a common connector line as liquid doesn't usually flow up hill. I checked the TM and i don't think it's a tap point for the ambulance heater unit (apart from this is a plated 561 not 792)... any ideas?
Spock
PointnShoot4WD
Member
- 150
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- BNE, Oz
Just eyeballed this pic again while flicking through... wonder if t-case has low fluid level, although i think that this leak looks more like diff, same as one further back.
Spock
Aussiecowboy
Member
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- Echuca VIC, Australia
Wish I lived closer to you, I'd come and help investigate.
PointnShoot4WD
Member
- 150
- 12
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- Location
- BNE, Oz
Beginning to wish i lived closer to me too, then i could get a good run of spanner time.... at the moment i'm being nagged to project manage and set up a rebuild plan for others to enact in my absence....
Mrs is even in on the act with plans to refit it for bucks nights and formals as a wet hire!
Spock
- 2,112
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The green taped fitting is either the tank vent or heater fuel supply. The air cleaner indicator line should go as you indicated to the bottom of the filter assy.. The engine stay cover pin is the same as all the other pins, just a straight, headed pin. I have a used tailgate that is in a lot better shape but shipping would make it gold plated, better off finding a new one if you want to pay shipping on one. I have not heard who bought out muttparts, he had new tailgates for $125 before he sold out.
PointnShoot4WD
Member
- 150
- 12
- 18
- Location
- BNE, Oz
Another R&R gone, another couple of steps dancing with the goat...
Erected a cover and tarped up before wet season sets in, which means the tractor isn't permanently tarped in, making work a little easier to access. Importantly, still starting and moving, so i decided to back it out to the concrete driveway to start hitting the grease points; and maybe give the grass a chance to be mowed.
Reversed out the yard, onto the street, swung it to head back into the driveway (left hand down) and then tried to straighten up the alignment to the concrete... no right hand down, jamming up. Pull up, try a little force.... not happy, still get left hand down, right binds. Crawled underneath after shutting down and no blockage at the steering arms, jumped back in, fired up, tried a little more force... and showers of sparks from under the dash over the tunnel.
Turns out the gentleman who did my RHD was a whiz mechanically, but the extra wiring from moving the instrument cluster over had broken free of his looming and wrapped up in the short shaft with a tie wire then puncturing insulation when i got all heavy handed.
Spent a bit of time repairing splicing damaged cable and then re-looming it to prevent a recurrence, still not perfect, but out of the way.
Also got the instrument panel loose, the plugs into the gauges are pretty tight and the rubber doesn't look so healthy, is there a trick to getting them off so i can check the gauges and sender unit signal? Also, is there anything that might help preserve them a little longer, my experience with rubberised cable is generally to dice it in favour of XLPE but i'm thinking this is probably not standard rubber insulation either.
Of course i didn't get the greasing done as the trouble and strife returned with the i30 that normally lives on the concrete before i finished...
Erected a cover and tarped up before wet season sets in, which means the tractor isn't permanently tarped in, making work a little easier to access. Importantly, still starting and moving, so i decided to back it out to the concrete driveway to start hitting the grease points; and maybe give the grass a chance to be mowed.
Reversed out the yard, onto the street, swung it to head back into the driveway (left hand down) and then tried to straighten up the alignment to the concrete... no right hand down, jamming up. Pull up, try a little force.... not happy, still get left hand down, right binds. Crawled underneath after shutting down and no blockage at the steering arms, jumped back in, fired up, tried a little more force... and showers of sparks from under the dash over the tunnel.
Turns out the gentleman who did my RHD was a whiz mechanically, but the extra wiring from moving the instrument cluster over had broken free of his looming and wrapped up in the short shaft with a tie wire then puncturing insulation when i got all heavy handed.
Spent a bit of time repairing splicing damaged cable and then re-looming it to prevent a recurrence, still not perfect, but out of the way.
Also got the instrument panel loose, the plugs into the gauges are pretty tight and the rubber doesn't look so healthy, is there a trick to getting them off so i can check the gauges and sender unit signal? Also, is there anything that might help preserve them a little longer, my experience with rubberised cable is generally to dice it in favour of XLPE but i'm thinking this is probably not standard rubber insulation either.
Of course i didn't get the greasing done as the trouble and strife returned with the i30 that normally lives on the concrete before i finished...
PointnShoot4WD
Member
- 150
- 12
- 18
- Location
- BNE, Oz
Another day, while in a better light and vacuuming up the mud from in the dash etc. Rumour has it that this rig was retired from service with Boart when it got drowned in a flooded creek, the amount of crap caked up under panel etc does support this.
Noticed markings on the front right bumper, cleaned the area up a bit - read removed heavy white overpaint - and what looks like some sort of unit marking, ****ed if it makes any sense to me though.
Vehicle was sourced out of Germany before coming to Australia, F112 is pretty clear but the figures before that are dodgy.
Any thoughts?
Noticed markings on the front right bumper, cleaned the area up a bit - read removed heavy white overpaint - and what looks like some sort of unit marking, ****ed if it makes any sense to me though.
Vehicle was sourced out of Germany before coming to Australia, F112 is pretty clear but the figures before that are dodgy.
Any thoughts?
PointnShoot4WD
Member
- 150
- 12
- 18
- Location
- BNE, Oz
Don't think this is the tool listed in the TM, but once i got the tension right it made removing gear knobs a lot easier.
