Got a Deuce! '62 M35A1

[DavidWymore]

Let's try this :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeUYPqnTqz8

 

[rustystud]

Let's try this :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeUYPqnTqz8

David that is very bad ! If there is no movement up and down then the bearings are OK on the pinion shaft but you have totally lost your gear-lash. Which could be because the gears are wasted or the ring gear shaft bearings are gone. If your pinion gear and bearings and ring gear and bearings are OK then you lost your "Drive Bull Gear" or "Main Bull Gear" . Either way you slice it, it is very BAD !

 

[rustystud]

Hats off to you, I hope to never do this again, or at least not for a long time.

I'll soak the felts and coat everything else with Never Seez.

Have one outer bearing race loose in the bore, gotta salvage another hub from one of the bent axles. `

You might be able to save the hub. First take a good sharp punch and start making divets on the bearing surface ( at least 50 to a 100 ). All around the hub. Then using "Loctite bearing retainer" liberally apply this around the surface. Then put in the bearing race. Mechanics have used this technique for generations now. Some times it works great if the hub is not too worn out.

 

[Another Ahab]

I had a lot of play in my front axle's pinion, here is the result!

Ouch!

 

[DavidWymore]

You might be able to save the hub. First take a good sharp punch and start making divets on the bearing surface ( at least 50 to a 100 ). All around the hub. Then using "Loctite bearing retainer" liberally apply this around the surface. Then put in the bearing race. Mechanics have used this technique for generations now. Some times it works great if the hub is not too worn out.

I'm familiar with the process because we often do the bore/weld/rebore when it doesn't hold up. This one isn't too loose, so it would probably work, but I have hubs laying around from bent axles, so I'll just use one of them.

I edited my pics post above about rust, etc...


Looks like I might eventually just swap out the whole front axle, after I get all that ugly ole CARC off it.

When I do that and pull the pan to check bearings and clearances, I was thinking about upgrading the rod bolts. Does anyone know what size/grade they are and what the upgrade is?

 

[Jeepsinker]

Rusty knows

 

[DavidWymore]

Started tearing stuff apart and trying to decide where to stop...never stopped. It's all, all the way apart. Gonna order some Rapco 24052. For the interior parts, what should I use for the red oxide? What's on there seems to have a little bit of gloss, which I think would have some more rust resistance than just plain flat primer.

 

[DavidWymore]

I started it again tonight and could not detect any sort of knock. Smoked up the shop

 

[gimpyrobb]

Ouch!

Second one is doing it too. Getting ready to swap in the third!

 

[rustystud]

I'm familiar with the process because we often do the bore/weld/rebore when it doesn't hold up. This one isn't too loose, so it would probably work, but I have hubs laying around from bent axles, so I'll just use one of them.

I edited my pics post above about rust, etc...


Looks like I might eventually just swap out the whole front axle, after I get all that ugly ole CARC off it.

When I do that and pull the pan to check bearings and clearances, I was thinking about upgrading the rod bolts. Does anyone know what size/grade they are and what the upgrade is?

These are the bolts you want. You can get them at several places. Maibach Tractor supply has them in stock.

 

[DavidWymore]

Any idea what size or grade they are, or what the originals are? Is the reduced shank necessary?

Thanks!

 

[gimpyrobb]

David, if you do anything, make sure you use the 12pt bolts. They are the latest and strongest.

I don't have specs, sorry.

 

[DavidWymore]

So much for quick n dirty brake job. I'm a tightwad glutton for punishment. Won't spend money I don't have to. Drilled and tapped out all the ports (cleaning out crud) in the wheel cylinders, bleeders, and banjo bolts. Hopefully
put it all together Saturday.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Must have missed it, what did you use for paint? Looks good

 

[Another Ahab]

So much for quick n dirty brake job. I'm a tightwad glutton for punishment. Won't spend money I don't have to. Drilled and tapped out all the ports (cleaning out crud) in the wheel cylinders, bleeders, and banjo bolts. Hopefully
put it all together Saturday.

View attachment 554419

It's looking "purty".

 

[DavidWymore]

Must have missed it, what did you use for paint? Looks good

Just regular off the shelf red oxide rattle can


I have a case of Rapco 24052 rattle cans on the way

 

[Jeepsinker]

Nice work buddy.

 

[DavidWymore]

What do ya'll think of this master cylinder. I don't think it's very old. Exterior was rusty but interior nice and nice pliable seals. It's not OEM military, says use DOT3, which is what I'm going to do. I could rob the mil on off my parts truck and rebuild it, but it's a hassle.




USMC green on donor cab (and bed). Bed is an A1 I think, was bolted down with U-bolts.

It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas.


48 hour brake fluid soak takes off the civvy paint and keeps the military.

 

[DavidWymore]

Also, new used rebuildable airpack showed up. Hanging halfway out of the box, but intact.

 

[gimpyrobb]

If the seals are pliable and the bore is good, I'd run it! I wouldn't put that hex cap back on though, you want something with a vent.