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+1 on this. Can you post an image of the dataplate of the unit?
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Got installed on the island - MEP-803a
- Thread starter k9medic
- Start date
I'm in the process of procuring a couple of gallons of oil, filters and a belt to bring over on my next trip on the 23rd.
You mean data plate of the A/C? I just happen to have that!
Shows:
Unit supply 208-230V 1PH 60hz
Compressor 208-230v 1PH 60hz 18.8 RLA 78 LRA
Fan Motor 208-230v 1PH 60HZ 1.5 FLA
Max Circuit Ampacity 25
You mean data plate of the A/C? I just happen to have that!
Shows:
Unit supply 208-230V 1PH 60hz
Compressor 208-230v 1PH 60hz 18.8 RLA 78 LRA
Fan Motor 208-230v 1PH 60HZ 1.5 FLA
Max Circuit Ampacity 25
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- 2,532
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- Efland, NC
An 803 should have no problem starting that if its not otherwise heavily loaded.
You need to determine if its a low capacity issue on the generator or a higher than normal inrush on the AC. I would suggest taking new motor capacitors for the AC when you go back next. Get the hard starting caps. That will soften the inrush a little.
Also curious if you have any other loads you might now be aware of somewhere. Maybe turn off all the circuits in the house other than the AC and see if it makes it through the night.
Good luck and keep us posted on how its going.
You need to determine if its a low capacity issue on the generator or a higher than normal inrush on the AC. I would suggest taking new motor capacitors for the AC when you go back next. Get the hard starting caps. That will soften the inrush a little.
Also curious if you have any other loads you might now be aware of somewhere. Maybe turn off all the circuits in the house other than the AC and see if it makes it through the night.
Good luck and keep us posted on how its going.
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78 LRA = UP TO 78A draw at startup... there is your problematic item.
I thought that too but why would it run for 6+ hours with no issues and then shut down after everything else in the house is turned off but the ceiling fans?
4 ceiling fans running should only be about 3 amps at most.
Perhaps I need to look into a soft start kit for the A/C?
4 ceiling fans running should only be about 3 amps at most.
Perhaps I need to look into a soft start kit for the A/C?
- 2,532
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- Efland, NC
That is a real number but in practice it lasts for such a short period of time its USUALLY not an issue. Its when caps get soft, when generators are a little weak, or you have a lot of wire in the power path that this number blows up into a real problem.
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- Location
- Efland, NC
There is more going on here than just that number. If I were putting $$ on it I would first change the caps on the ACU. With it running for hours they could have gotten hot. Hot and partially dried out caps = a really hard starting compressor.
Also if your unit short cycled and you still had a lot of gas head pressure on the compressor it would be virtually impossible to start on a generator.
You'll need to take some time and figure out what is really going on.
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- Efland, NC
It is likely something simple. That doesn't mean it will be simple to figure out. 
Zed254
Well-known member
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In another thread you indicated the generator is located 600 feet from the house. What size wire did you use for the run to the house?
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The impression I got is that he pulled the utility meter, disconnected the lines out of it, and connected them to the gen. Should be more than large enough for this load.
He can correct me if I'm wrong.
that is correct. I pulled the meter, disconnected the wires to the house and attached it to the generator with polaris connectors. Wire from generator to connectors is 6/3 and the generator sits next to the power panel.
Power panel is approx. 600' from the house and is wired with 1.0 or zero GA wire.
- 2,532
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- Efland, NC
Is the service cable copper or aluminum?
- 2,532
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- Location
- Efland, NC
OK. You'll have about a 20v drop at the AC unit when it tries to kick on assuming 600' of 1 gauge copper.
That is more than what you typically want to see but I don't think that alone is your issue.
That is more than what you typically want to see but I don't think that alone is your issue.
Howdy,
Double check where you are grounding.
You say your connected using 6/3 wire.
You will want a ground somewhere. If that is your meter, or at the service panel at the house.
Because of the 600ft distance. Use the clamp on meter, usually has a few other options, and measure your line voltage, and the hertz. Bring up the generator to have the best results to where the power is used. That means the generator might be showing 248 volts and 65hz on it, but 600ft away is 239volts and 59hz.
The nomenclature is funny. 120/240, or a 220 appliance, or would say a 110 outlet, or 115v appliance. It also means that if you were using 3 phase electrical, the A/C would run on 2 pair giving you the 208v.
The biggest enemy is to keep a good 60Hz at the use area and voltage. 600ft will see some drop.
Watch and feel the 6/3. If its getting hot, you will want to go larger wire.
Separate #6 wires work, or W type cord
W-6-4C 6 Gauge Multi-Conductor Type W Portable Power Cable gives you 87amp capacity
Double check where you are grounding.
You say your connected using 6/3 wire.
You will want a ground somewhere. If that is your meter, or at the service panel at the house.
Because of the 600ft distance. Use the clamp on meter, usually has a few other options, and measure your line voltage, and the hertz. Bring up the generator to have the best results to where the power is used. That means the generator might be showing 248 volts and 65hz on it, but 600ft away is 239volts and 59hz.
The nomenclature is funny. 120/240, or a 220 appliance, or would say a 110 outlet, or 115v appliance. It also means that if you were using 3 phase electrical, the A/C would run on 2 pair giving you the 208v.
The biggest enemy is to keep a good 60Hz at the use area and voltage. 600ft will see some drop.
Watch and feel the 6/3. If its getting hot, you will want to go larger wire.
Separate #6 wires work, or W type cord
W-6-4C 6 Gauge Multi-Conductor Type W Portable Power Cable gives you 87amp capacity
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The 6/3 has a ground wire as well. I have that routed to the ground rod at the base of the meter panel. Wires are cool to the touch (I have a boat that has two 30a lines that are 10/3 and have seen those get really hot!)
I never thought about measuring the volts, hz and amps at the house but it does make sense.
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I agree with having voltage drop, but it's not possible to drop the frequency over a wire distance no matter how much resistance there is. It will be the same frequency no matter the voltage at either end.
Unless my understanding of how alternating current is way off and my google fu is failing me that's how it is.
Chainbreaker
Well-known member
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And that is the reason I ALWAYS plug in a Kill-A-Watt meter into an outlet in house while on generator power. I find that having it plugged into a kitchen outlet (or any outlet you can easily observe) forces me to monitor Hz and Voltage when I walk past even when I'm not thinking about it.