Got my MEP-017A running today!

[FireFighterHill]

Finally got all the parts together to get it running. NOS Carb and new batts. Didn't have to many problems though there was a few. The fuel lines pretty much all need replaced. They all seem dried out and brittle. Trying to prime it I found the line that runs to the jerry can clogged so I had to set up a temp setup with a short length of fuel line I had laying around and a primmer bulb.

I also found that the flexible line that runs up to the carb from the fuel selector has rubbed a hole into the tube that runs from the crank case to the head. Any suggestions on a fix?

I'm using 2 lawn batteries ran in series through 6 gauge wires. I'm curious, when running in parallel does that double my CCA's? The batteries easily turned over the engine.

Also I had to ground to the gen head cover, I couldnt get the original ground unbolted as it was to rusted. Will that cause any problems? I had 28volts at the batteries once the gen was running.

It put out 110 at 60hz once running no problem. I hooked up a 1,000 watt space heater and it didnt even register on the load meter or change the rpms, the gen didnt even notice the load.

Now to order another carb and get the second one on the trailer running.

 

[mistaken1]

Congratulations on getting it running.

If you series two identical batteries you double the voltage, if you parallel two identical batteries you double the current.

A battery can only deliver so much energy (internal resistance, wire size to the load, etc). Two batteries in series can deliver twice the energy of one battery (same current as one battery at double the voltage), two batteries in parallel can deliver twice the energy of one battery (double the current at the same voltage as one battery).

1200 watts at 6v is 200A
1200 watts at 12V is 100A
1200 watts at 24V is 50A
1200 watts at 48V is 25A

 

[FireFighterHill]

Ok so here is an update. And pictures. I ordered a new carb for the other generator, I also went to walmart today and picked up two more lawn batteries and the needed cables. Let me know if there is any problems with the way I have the wires connected. I went by ACE hardware and found the fitting needed to make my own fuel lines, they look good and they dont leak.

Now for the problems. It wont stay running in "normal" mode anymore, not sure why nothing has changed, before after it was started and the oil pressure came up I could flip the switch to normal and it ran fine. Now when I do that it shuts down.

Also I need advice on how to fix the hole. Would a metal saddle clamp be sufficient? What about some JB Weld? Any suggestions would be great as its throwing out alot of oil. Also I think im going to replace the fuel line that goes from the fuel selector to the fuel pump, they are in sore shape.

 

[FireFighterHill]

And by the way if anyone is interested im selling them once running. Im looking for $2,000 obo

 

[DieselBob]

Now for the problems. It wont stay running in "normal" mode anymore, not sure why nothing has changed, before after it was started and the oil pressure came up I could flip the switch to normal and it ran fine. Now when I do that it shuts down.

Might try jumping the oil pressure safety switch terminals and see if it will run in normal than.

Also I need advice on how to fix the hole. Would a metal saddle clamp be sufficient? What about some JB Weld? Any suggestions would be great as its throwing out alot of oil. Also I think im going to replace the fuel line that goes from the fuel selector to the fuel pump, they are in sore shape.

I would be a little leery of using JB weld. I would be afraid a piece might break loose and either travel through the push rod tube to the head or the crankcase. A better solution, IMO, would be TIG weld a patch. I think it is a aluminum tube.

 

[Carl_in_NH]

If you start an 017A with the mode switch in the 'emergency run' position, and then flip it to 'normal' it will shut down - by design; when flipping the switch to 'normal', you need to blip the starter switch to keep it running. It's a design feature that causes the relay that keeps the unit running to drop out until the starter switch is activated. Don't worry about the starter contacting the flywheel - the 'at speed' switch on the engine will inform the control logic to not really spin up the starter while you're doing this.

All this information is in the TM, by the way.

 

[FireFighterHill]

I read the TM starting procedures and do not recall reading that. Thanks for the info! I guess my only thing now is to fix that hole. I will see if any of my welding buddies can tig.

 

[derf]

If possible, just replace the tube.
I'd clean the wiring contacts, too. Some of the cables shown in the pics are attached with rusty hardware. Corrosion in and on electrical connections is like cancer that needs to be eradicated or it will cause trouble.

 

[FireFighterHill]

It looks like more work then I am will to tackle to remove the tube. From the looks of it I would have to remove the head and everything around it. Then im not sure how hard the tube is to remove. If it is corroded to the head or to the crank case I may cause more damage or trouble trying to remove it. If I can get someone to weld a patch over it I think that is the way to go.

Once both gensets are running I will be doing some cosmetic work. take care of the rust. Prime and paint. I also need to take care of the trailer surge brakes. If I end up keeping the set and not selling it I will end up doing the neutral wire mod so I can get two legs of 120 when in 240 mode to hook it to my house.

Does anyone know where I can get a Brake master cylinder resevoir cap for the M116A2? Is this cap shared with the deuce or over vehicles or trailers? Or does anyone have a part number that would cross over to something I could order from napa or another online source?

 

[FireFighterHill]

Ok another update. The second generator is running but it takes ALOT of cranking before it will start. I think the voltage regulator is bad, tell me if these symptoms match. when it starts up it revs WAY up and pegs the HZ meter to the right. After alittle bit It will come back down, but then it wants to hover around 56-58hz. The only way to get it up to 60hz is give it more throttle. I plugged a 600watt A/C window unit into it and ran it, once I turned it off, the generator idled up and the hz once again pegged to the right, and once it didnt come down after a minute I turned of the gen.

Also It wont crank in Emergency run, only normal. If I click it into emergency it will no longer crank. But once running if I put it in emergency it stays running.

What oil pressure should I be seeing at idle? It was at 60psi, that seems high. I think the sensor may be bad.

 

[jbk]

sounds like the throttle linkage may be binding the one from carb. to govenor. see if you can move it freely. mine did the same thing it had a brass bearing ball joint that wouldnt move freely in the joint. the good ones are steel ball joints. as far as the cranking it could be carb., points or ing. timming. what reg. do you think is bad ac or dc and why? you can adjust the throotle stop if its runnung a little slow no load you should adjust to 61.8 htz.. 60 psi is normal remember its running at 3600 rpm mine will come down a little once hot.