Got the MEP002 fired up and have few issues...

[CDR]

Got the MEP002 fired up and noticed a few things. I'm hoping someone could give me a hand with.

1.) My volt meter is dead. I'm assuming as 24 gauge would work what size is the gauge? 2"

2.) my load meter doesn't work? Is there any way to diagnoses if it is the gauge or something else?

3.) the cooling vents by the exhaust don't seem to open even operation under a full load for 30 minutes. This that normal? what does it take for them to open?

4.) I ran the generator on two jump packs that together seem to put out 26 volts. the volts never change when I start it. I tested the stator and it puts out 50 volts AC so i'm assuming my regulator is dead?

5.) with out a load meter I figured 30 amps on each pole was acceptable for 110% load. Whats your guys feelings on this?

Thanks for any help!

Dave

 

[1800 Diesel]

WRT the DC voltmeter, since you got her cranked I assume you have the battery cables hooked up correctly?

With DC breaker pushed in (open cubicle door and test voltage at the battery gauge terminals.


WRT load meter, it'll just bounce around a little until you actually apply a load to the generator. A 1500w milkhouse heater plugged into the convenience outlet will make the load meter read enough to see if its working.

Cooling vents won't hardly open on most of mine until an hour or so, depending on ambient temp. I haven't come across any that are stuck but I guess that's possible. Check for freedom of movement.

50 volts sounds high for the stator voltage. Go over Speddmon's sticky DC system troubleshooting above...

WRT load data, TM has output values near the front of the manual....don't have it open right now....

 

[DeucesWild11]

I'm no expert on these but if it were me I would put in two good batteries and properly start up and then see what problems you are having. Common sense doesn't seem to always work for electrical stuff.. the gremlins are always in there up to something..

 

[CDR]

WRT the DC voltmeter, since you got her cranked I assume you have the battery cables hooked up correctly?

With DC breaker pushed in (open cubicle door and test voltage at the battery gauge terminals.


WRT load meter, it'll just bounce around a little until you actually apply a load to the generator. A 1500w milkhouse heater plugged into the convenience outlet will make the load meter read enough to see if its working.

Cooling vents won't hardly open on most of mine until an hour or so, depending on ambient temp. I haven't come across any that are stuck but I guess that's possible. Check for freedom of movement.

50 volts sounds high for the stator voltage. Go over Speddmon's sticky DC system troubleshooting above...

WRT load data, TM has output values near the front of the manual....don't have it open right now....

Cables are hooked up good unit starts and runs well test voltage at the gauge.

The DC volt gauge is broken the needle is smashed. Does anyone know what size gauge will fit it so I can order another is it 2"?

The load gauge indicates nothing drawing a 30 amp load so something is wrong with it I'm not sure where to start looking.

Glad to here that about the cooling vents I was getting worried.

50 volts seemed high to me too no idea what's going on there.

 

[CDR]

I'm no expert on these but if it were me I would put in two good batteries and properly start up and then see what problems you are having. Common sense doesn't seem to always work for electrical stuff.. the gremlins are always in there up to something..

I'm wondering is the voltage is to high from the start to trigger the regulator to start charging

 

[1800 Diesel]

I'm fairly certain the gauge dia is 2". You can open the cubicle door & measure the gauge OD fairly easily. I believe there's several guys on here in the classifieds section parting out trucks that probably have a gauge or two available...might have to do a little digging & some pms...

On the load gauge, I would borrow a known good gauge & swap out first. If that shows same results then you need to study the TM...I'm not up to speed on the electrical schematic as to what component is "feeding" the percent rated current meter...

 

[CDR]

I'm fairly certain the gauge dia is 2". You can open the cubicle door & measure the gauge OD fairly easily. I believe there's several guys on here in the classifieds section parting out trucks that probably have a gauge or two available...might have to do a little digging & some pms...

On the load gauge, I would borrow a known good gauge & swap out first. If that shows same results then you need to study the TM...I'm not up to speed on the electrical schematic as to what component is "feeding" the percent rated current meter...

I wish I had a know working load gauge to swap too. I measured A/C volts going to the gauge and got 0 so I'm not sure if that the problem or I'm not testing it properly. Thanks again for all the help

 

[1800 Diesel]

I wish I had a know working load gauge to swap too. I measured A/C volts going to the gauge and got 0 so I'm not sure if that the problem or I'm not testing it properly. Thanks again for all the help

I haven't checked the wiring to the DC voltage gauge lately, but IIRC it won't read unless the generator is running. You have to pull the boot off to check for 24v. Pull it off before cranking up. It's easier for me to use alligator clips for the ground and then use a test lead for the + side going to the gauge connector....

 

[1800 Diesel]

I wish I had a know working load gauge to swap too. ....

Check the SS members map--bound to be some good people living nearby that may have a spare or a loaner meter...

 

[wciguy]

There is a fuse in the battery charging circuit. Located near the injector pump. This is the first item to check if the batteries are not being charged.

 

[CDR]

I haven't checked the wiring to the DC voltage gauge lately, but IIRC it won't read unless the generator is running. You have to pull the boot off to check for 24v. Pull it off before cranking up. It's easier for me to use alligator clips for the ground and then use a test lead for the + side going to the gauge connector....

Couldn't figure out why I saw 0 voltage at the gauge! thanks for the help on that

 

[CDR]

Thanks again for all the help guys I come a long way with this still need to figure out this pesky load gauge and the fact my shutter wont open. Thankfully it seems to charge now