Green fever struck, got another MV & need rust repair advice

[voltedge]

I've recently acquired my first MV, a USAF 89' A2 and am still working it back into shape, but it seems as if the "Green Fever" that I've read about has now struck! It's funny how driving an MV around gets you the attention and the leads to purchase other MVs. I ended up getting a low mileage A3, but it has some rough rust issues. The truck was based in PA, whuch is why I believe it has the rust. I have the drivers rocker panel with rust through, an area on the rear cab wall behind the drivers seat with rust through and the motor pool did an awful job with filler on the cowl panel that needs reworked. I also have spots of rust that is easily repaired from front to back. For the current going prices of A3s in this condition or worse, I did ok. I am thinking a new cab is the best plan of action. Why do the a3s seem to have more rust issues than the A2s that I've looked at? Does anyone know of an area in the southeast that may have nice cabs for sale? Looks like i've gotten myself pretty deep into this hobby,but it is a lot cheaper than auto racing that I used to be into. Your help and advice is appreciated! Thanks

 

[RodUSMC1962]

These are herd animals, it`s not your fault. I`m sure someone can help with your rust problems.

 

[zout]

Going to have to be fairly well deteriorated to swap a cab on.
You just need good a dive on how to repair them with the right equip and some time. Unless your looking for that brand new pristine look.

 

[Welder1]

Check with Jesse Bostick in Camilla Ga he had several A2's he parted out.
229-221-0969

 

[oddshot]

I've recently acquired my first MV, a USAF 89' A2 and am still working it back into shape ... I ended up getting a low mileage A3, but it has some rough rust issues.

Maybe its a typo, maybe I'm a little confused, but I can't figure out if you have an A2 or an A3.

I ended up getting a low mileage A3, but it has some rough rust issues. The truck was based in PA, which is why I believe it has the rust. I have the drivers rocker panel with rust through, an area on the rear cab wall behind the drivers seat with rust through and the motor pool did an awful job with filler on the cowl panel that needs reworked. I also have spots of rust that is easily repaired from front to back. ... Why do the a3s seem to have more rust issues than the A2s that I've looked at?

I am no expert, but I believe I've read that M35A3's are not newly built trucks, but an assemblage of parts from several OLD trucks as a result of a rebuild program in the late 80's early 90's. Although I haven't seen hundreds of A3's, most of the ones I have seen seem to have very rusted cabs that didn't get very good body work when they were assembled. One in particular had a hunk of sheet metal rudely pop riveted on to the cowl area to cover a big rust spot.

Having said all this, I'm sure that somebody with more extensive knowledge on this subject will be along any moment now to help out.

Good luck with your new MV!!!

 

[rustystud]

The cab itself is the same as a A2. It's the front end that is different. There are still some good condition cabs out there.

 

[Monkeyboyarmy]

The A3 cabs have a few minor differences...wiring,guages,air lines,seat belts, etc.. Try tacticaltruck in Va. He has a couple of A3 cabs.

 

[59apache]

rust repair isn't a big job ....just needs time.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?108993-paint-job

 

[swbradley1]

My trucks came from the military with the standard military repair, MIG weld a patch on and paint over it. Any time I work on a spot that is my plan for them as well. My trucks look like the way they did in the military and are not museum pieces.

 

[clinto]

Several points:

I don't think A3s are any rustier than A2s. I strongly suspect that it has more to do with where they were stationed and how they were used.

It is true that A3s are built out of A2s but not entirely. I strongly believe the cabs were all new. The beds were all new.

Swapping a cab has one difficult aspect, other than the actual lifting itself. You either have to remove the bed or do something about the column. Before I rebuilt a rustbucket cab, I'd swap it. Swapping it gives you the opportunity to steam clean the chassis and do a really nice paint job on the cab, front of the bed, etc.

And regarding poor patch jobs-I don't think A3's came like that out of the factory, I think that's a later field job. The military's patch jobs are atrocious. There's no nice way to say that. I had a cab that the drivers rear corner looked like it had been removed with a sawzall and a replacement (also removed with a sawzall) was crudely brazed into place. I mean, just awful. I've seen better work in junkyards.

 

[59apache]

Doing a job once and doing it right has nothing to do with a museum piece. I don't have the time to repair the same thing twice.
It cost me the same time doing it ugly.

 

[voltedge]

To clear up my post, I have an A2 and an A3. I truly enjoy the more modern updates that the A3 has vs my A2, but the A2 and the multifuel whistler has it's place in my heart too! I really believe that either my 89' A2 was kept inside of the USAF hanger due to lack of rust or that the A3 being based in PA just got so much salt from the harsh winters that it rusted this much. I am going to take pics and post for your review. Thanks for the help thus far.

 

[RodUSMC1962]

Most of these trucks spent their entire lives outside until thy were purchased by a private owner. The point about salt is valid. If you can afford a building or a lean to the old girls would appreciate the cover.

 

[Jeepsinker]

I have a good rust free cab if you can't find one on your side of the fence. It is a stripped cab, so you would have to swap everything over, and it is red so it would need paint. I have every intention of saving it for myself, so please put some effort into finding one over there before you decide you need mine.