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H140 fuel pump?

M

Mk23

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Is there a fuel pump available for the H140? Mine seems to be unresponsive, not spinning up at all. Heater unit is like new, with only a couple hours on it...
 
M

m1161

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Hackettstown NJ
Mk23 said:
Is there a fuel pump available for the H140? Mine seems to be unresponsive, not spinning up at all. Heater unit is like new, with only a couple hours on it...
Click to expand...
OK, here we go....I too have a beautiful new H-140. It failed for the following reason(s). The fluid put into the machine to "preserve" the pump, it turned into a gooie paste and stalled the fuel pump. The coupler from the pump shaft to the squirrel cage blower broke and thus disconnected the pump from the motor driving it. I just had one made for me by a machinist. They sell for about $500 if you can find one. It's made of a teflon material. So, the pump was pulled and taken apart to clean out the goop that was seizing it.

New coupler works and pump now works. BUT WAIT! THERE'S MORE. Still no fire in the box. Checked the thin copper tube feeding the nozzle. it was clogged. Presently preparing to take the end of the firebox off and check that area. It's possible the goop got into the nozzle so that's for later today. I have two of these units.

Remember, noting works if the top is not on tight...the whole thing is a plenum chamber. I'll report back on the nozzle and feed line later.
FORGOT...open the lid and put the unit into "cool down" . Look at the end of the pump and you'll see a white "coupling" between it and the motor. Use a felt tip pen to draw a line on the white coupling. If it doesn't move, coupling is broken.

Larry
Hackettstown, NJ
 
M

Mk23

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Thank you very much for the excellent information! I will follow up with what I find on mine now as well.

I honnestly had put the whole heater to the side, for future me to deal with. No shortage of projects to work on. But I am glad you have new info for me, I can examine it now with renewed interest!!!



m1161 said:
OK, here we go....I too have a beautiful new H-140. It failed for the following reason(s). The fluid put into the machine to "preserve" the pump, it turned into a gooie paste and stalled the fuel pump. The coupler from the pump shaft to the squirrel cage blower broke and thus disconnected the pump from the motor driving it. I just had one made for me by a machinist. They sell for about $500 if you can find one. It's made of a teflon material. So, the pump was pulled and taken apart to clean out the goop that was seizing it.

New coupler works and pump now works. BUT WAIT! THERE'S MORE. Still no fire in the box. Checked the thin copper tube feeding the nozzle. it was clogged. Presently preparing to take the end of the firebox off and check that area. It's possible the goop got into the nozzle so that's for later today. I have two of these units.

Remember, noting works if the top is not on tight...the whole thing is a plenum chamber. I'll report back on the nozzle and feed line later.
FORGOT...open the lid and put the unit into "cool down" . Look at the end of the pump and you'll see a white "coupling" between it and the motor. Use a felt tip pen to draw a line on the white coupling. If it doesn't move, coupling is broken.

Larry
Hackettstown, NJ
Click to expand...
 
M

m1161

Member
54
31
18
Location
Hackettstown NJ
m1161 said:
OK, here we go....I too have a beautiful new H-140. It failed for the following reason(s). The fluid put into the machine to "preserve" the pump, it turned into a gooie paste and stalled the fuel pump. The coupler from the pump shaft to the squirrel cage blower broke and thus disconnected the pump from the motor driving it. I just had one made for me by a machinist. They sell for about $500 if you can find one. It's made of a teflon material. So, the pump was pulled and taken apart to clean out the goop that was seizing it.

New coupler works and pump now works. BUT WAIT! THERE'S MORE. Still no fire in the box. Checked the thin copper tube feeding the nozzle. it was clogged. Presently preparing to take the end of the firebox off and check that area. It's possible the goop got into the nozzle so that's for later today. I have two of these units.

Remember, noting works if the top is not on tight...the whole thing is a plenum chamber. I'll report back on the nozzle and feed line later.
FORGOT...open the lid and put the unit into "cool down" . Look at the end of the pump and you'll see a white "coupling" between it and the motor. Use a felt tip pen to draw a line on the white coupling. If it doesn't move, coupling is broken.

Larry
Hackettstown, NJ
Click to expand...
Here are some pix of the innerts. The fuel line has to be replaced....corrosion at the brazing points.
I'd say don't even think of turning this on until you dismount the pump, take it apart and clean out the goop,
and clear the fuel line to the burner.....DON'T JUST TURN IT ON!!!
 

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M

Mk23

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Port Angeles, WA
Did you make a fuel line, or did you buy one? Thanks for the pics

m1161 said:
Here are some pix of the innerts. The fuel line has to be replaced....corrosion at the brazing points.
I'd say don't even think of turning this on until you dismount the pump, take it apart and clean out the goop,
and clear the fuel line to the burner.....DON'T JUST TURN IT ON!!!
Click to expand...
 
M

Mk23

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Port Angeles, WA
Fingers Crossed! I am rooting for you!!! Let me know what else you find...

m1161 said:
I made a new 1/4 inch fuel line using the original flare fitting "nuts".
Incredibly poor workmanship on the original fuel line. Will try to install
it tomorrow at the latest to see what else next needs fixing LOL
Click to expand...
 
DieselAddict

DieselAddict

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I think several of us got some of those units. I have a couple that were OK but it looks like 4 of the 6 have sheared couplings. I also found the preservative to be very thick and tacky. I'm expecting to be able to get them going. They are all absolutely pristine and obviously unused.

I will say it wasn't so nice for the auction house to not photograph the tags that were on the units indicating the pumps where not working. BUT that is the risk of the auction. Don't always know what you are going to get.
 
M

m1161

Member
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Location
Hackettstown NJ
Guyfang said:
Why don't you take some pictures and show us the "Incredibly Poor Workmanship"?
Click to expand...
regarding "workmanship", silver soldering / brazing the RF shield to the fuel line collapsed the inside of the line thus restricting the fuel flow. See pix. The connectors on the capacitor mounted on the high voltage transformer were wrong....they will fall off the connecting point and the unit won't fire. I put new, correct, connectors on the capacitor connection...see pix. I can't take pix of all the loose nuts that were not tightened thruout the unit. I like the unit, can't wait to get it going....did for a while but failed after two minutes of perfect operating....looking to solve that now. Enjoy the pix!
 

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M

Mk23

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Port Angeles, WA
That's some bad brazing... man I need to dig into mine

m1161 said:
regarding "workmanship", silver soldering / brazing the RF shield to the fuel line collapsed the inside of the line thus restricting the fuel flow. See pix. The connectors on the capacitor mounted on the high voltage transformer were wrong....they will fall off the connecting point and the unit won't fire. I put new, correct, connectors on the capacitor connection...see pix. I can't take pix of all the loose nuts that were not tightened thruout the unit. I like the unit, can't wait to get it going....did for a while but failed after two minutes of perfect operating....looking to solve that now. Enjoy the pix!
Click to expand...
 
M

m1161

Member
54
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Location
Hackettstown NJ
Mk23 said:
That's some bad brazing... man I need to dig into mine
Click to expand...

After taking the firebox apart to the one millionth time, I discovered there's a RESET button on K1, the relay control
hooked to the eyeball flame sensor! Upon reinstalling the firebox components tomorrow, I'm hoping pressing that
flame sensor K1 relay reset finally gets me back in business. Stay tuned :>)

larry
 
M

m1161

Member
54
31
18
Location
Hackettstown NJ
m1161 said:
Here are some pix of the innerts. The fuel line has to be replaced....corrosion at the brazing points.
I'd say don't even think of turning this on until you dismount the pump, take it apart and clean out the goop,
and clear the fuel line to the burner.....DON'T JUST TURN IT ON!!!
Click to expand...
Turns out the pump is a loss. Seems the "preservative" put into the unit by the mfr. destroyed the pressure regulator.
all attempts to free it failed. I have to retrofit my unit with a new pump. So far, unable to find a duplicate and can't seem to
relate the numbers casted into the steel to anything. It's "over" for now.

larry
 
M

m1161

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Hackettstown NJ
M

Mk23

Active member
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Location
Port Angeles, WA
Guyfang

Guyfang

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Tech data on the pump.

4320-01-299-0460
INTAKE CONNECTION QUANTITY1
INTAKE CONNECTION TYPETHREADED INTERNAL
DISCHARGE CONNECTION QUANTITY1
DISCHARGE CONNECTION TYPETHREADED INTERNAL
DRIVE CONNECTION TYPEGEAR
MEDIA FOR WHICH DESIGNEDHYDROCARBON FUELS AND OILS
MAXIMUM DISCHARGE FLOW RATE0 1/5 GALLONS PER MINUTE
DISCHARGE PRESSURE150 POUNDS PER SQUARE INCH GAGE
OPERATING SPEED AT RATED CAPACITY1725 REVOLUTIONS PER MINUTE
PUMP ROTATION DIRECTIONCOUNTERCLOCKWISE
ROTARY PUMP DESIGNGEAR
OPERATION METHODPOWERED
DRIVE SHAFT TYPEPLAIN ROUND
DRIVE SHAFT END DIAMETER0 87/200 INCHES MINIMUM AND 109/250 INCHES MAXIMUM
DRIVE SHAFT LENGTH0 247/250 INCHES NOMINAL
DISCHARGE CONNECTION THREAD SIZE AND SERIES/TYPE DESIGNATOR0.125-27 NPTF
INTAKE CONNECTION THREAD SIZE AND SERIES/TYPE DESIGNATOR0.250-18 NPTF
 
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