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Had a Buyer for my Deuce...Then..NO GO!!

sgtcrowley

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I had a buyer coming out to buy my Deuce. I've had it a few years sitting in storage. I hurt my left shoulder (rotary cuff) lifting the Cargo Cover, took 6 months to heal. Then in Jan. 2017 I hurt my right shoulder (rotary cuff) lifting the tail gate! LOL!!

So I went out early to change the fuel line, crank the engine, get it ready to show...then the brake Pedal goes to the floor!! WTF?? I freak out..I go to the TM, trouble shooting...I saw "Brake Pedal Goes to the Floor" looked at the remedial action..."Notify Supervisor" WHAT???!!! I just looked up at God and said...why me??? LOL!!

So I guess I'm keeping it for a while and re-doing the brake system.

There was a lot of leaking going on around my air-pak, so I'm guessing I need a new one.

I have an 8 ton bottle jack. My storage doesn't seem to care if I work on it there..there's other vehicles up on jack stands, so I thought of just putting the deuce on heavy duty jack stands and putting the tires underneath, sort of..

any recommendations on jack stand procedure? Jack stand brands?

deuce-rearend.jpg
 

gimpyrobb

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I must be missing something, what are you going to work on that needs jack stands?

On a side note, sorry to hear about the pulled muscle issues.
 

Coffey1

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I guess you guy's didn't see where he said he was going to completely go over the brakes.
Last I recall you have to remove drums to do a inspection.
 

sgtcrowley

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Exactly! But now I see I will need a Tire Jack or a couple of Gorillas to remove those double wheels. I have been out of work for a while surviving on my VA benefits and PB & J. So I have been looking for a job...anything so I can save some money for parts. I'm just wondering if the 12 ton harbor freight stands will work and do I need 6 as opposed to 4? I also forgot to mention that in my panic to get the brakes working, I poured maybe a CUP of DOT 3 in the MC. The guys at NAPA convinced me that DOT 3 is what I should use. I also have to mention that I am a 19Kilo Tanker, M1A1 Armor Crewman, commonly referred to as a DAT (Dumb Ass Tanker) or with the M1 CDAT (Computerized Dumb Ass Tanker) LOL!

drivers-station-002.jpg
 

swiss

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Just be safe, I don't trust jack stands by themselves. I use 6x6 timbers doubled up and leave the jack in place as 2nd safety measure. To many people in the news getting killed underneath vehicles.
 

sgtcrowley

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Just be safe, I don't trust jack stands by themselves. I use 6x6 timbers doubled up and leave the jack in place as 2nd safety measure. To many people in the news getting killed underneath vehicles.
That's good advice. I will just have to get lumber pre-cut and store it in the back of my deuce. But I was thinking of these babies!! 22 Ton jack stands!!

http://www.tooltopia.com/omega-32225.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=paid_search_google_pla&scid=scplpOME32225&sc_intid=OME32225&gclid=CjwKEAjw2qzHBRChloWxgoXDpyASJAB01Io05Bmu_HIj7yuR8-TIruM0iBGhV-HqfsS18EO_HZGdxxoCrmXw_wcB


OME32225.jpg
 

FloridaAKM

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If you were local, I have a dolly that will allow you to remove the double wheels without unbolting them. It makes brake inspection a easier task when working on concrete & it is NOS OEM Mil Spec. Good luck with taking care of the brakes & don't injure any more body parts. Keep us posted with your inspections & pending sale.
 

Johny5

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You must pull the hubs out to get to the cylinders, I'm in the middle of that process right now.

If you put DOT3 in, I would recommend flushing all of the lines and replacing with DOT5. This is why I'm having to rebuild my breaks. The Master Cylinder, air-pack and one of the wheel cylinders had rust in them.
 

Valence

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I just do one axle end at a time and use a commonly found 6 ton jack stand to hold the axle end. It's the same jack stand I use on my civilian pickups. I leave the bottle jack there too, with slight pressure as my back up, but the axle is primarily held by the jack stand.

I forget the brand, but my jack stand looks just like this Torin T46002:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CODPF6/

I do have a pair of the Harbor Freight 12 ton jack stands, but they are FAR too tall to put under the axle. I've actually only used them twice, on the front leaf springs when doing a caster adjustment, and under the frame as backup when adding air-assist steering.

You still have the stock 9.00-20 NDTs, so they shouldn't be too bad. Just take them off one at a time. They're about 175lbs, mounted. But with your injuries, you may need help with removing the lug nuts, tires, and ~60lb brake drum.
 
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sgtcrowley

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You must pull the hubs out to get to the cylinders, I'm in the middle of that process right now.

If you put DOT3 in, I would recommend flushing all of the lines and replacing with DOT5. This is why I'm having to rebuild my breaks. The Master Cylinder, air-pack and one of the wheel cylinders had rust in them.
How do I flush the lines? I just poured some in the Master Cylinder. I definitely think flushing the system might be my first order of business.
 

Valence

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gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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If you 9nly poured it in the master cyl, take the barke line off fr9m the air pack and pull the master cyl. Dump out the contaminated fluid, reinstall.
 
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