Hard Door Recommendation

[Hammer]

I suspect “X” was originally used on oem fiberglass doors for reducing flex and inexpensively adding a measure of fiberglass strength. This would still be true of aftermarket fiberglass , or thin gauge metal doors. However, It is my belief that “X” has become more a design element rather than a form of function for sturdily fabricated doors.
Doors such as these (1/2” thick) from Twisted Metalworks are totally inflexible and incredibly strong. That is my primary reason opting for the “X-Delete” and maintaining that thickness across the entire door.

I agree on the strength of full layers. But I do like the X look as well.

 

[Mogman]

I suspect “X” was originally used on oem fiberglass doors for reducing flex and inexpensively adding a measure of fiberglass strength. This would still be true of aftermarket fiberglass , or thin gauge metal doors. However, It is my belief that “X” has become more a design element rather than a form of function for sturdily fabricated doors.
Doors such as these (1/2” thick) from Twisted Metalworks are totally inflexible and incredibly strong. That is my primary reason opting for the “X-Delete” and maintaining that thickness across the entire door.

Are they still two layers of 1/4" or a single layer of 1/2"?

 

[OBX]

Are they still two layers of 1/4" or a single layer of 1/2"?

2 layers of 1/4” completely bonded together. This is stronger than a single piece of 1/2” according to an engineering article I remember reading. Though I can’t recall exactly the publisher.

 

[OBX]

I agree on the strength of full layers. But I do like the X look as well.

Nothing wrong with preferring either one.
I don’t mean to imply my design preferences are better than anyone else’s. When completed, my Humvee will be different than any I have seen. Some people will like different features than others, but each feature I incorporate will be for a specific reason having purpose and value to me. Our MVs are very personal to each of us and should reflect our individual tastes and imaginations, to the extent our budgets permit.

 

[Mogman]

2 layers of 1/4” completely bonded together. This is stronger than a single piece of 1/2” according to an engineering article I remember reading. Though I can’t recall exactly the publisher.

Yes that is how I was always led to believe, a laminated material is stronger than a single layer.

 

[Autonomy_Lost]

Yes that is how I was always led to believe, a laminated material is stronger than a single layer.

I'm not an engineer, but I think that depends on the definition of "strength." I think a laminated material would have more flexibility and less prone to crack. But I don't think the tensile strength or compressive strength would be any higher.

I think another variable is whether the two layers are fully bonded together.

I'm guessing in this case there's probably not much of a functional difference either way.

 

[TOBASH]

I'm not an engineer, but I think that depends on the definition of "strength." I think a laminated material would have more flexibility and less prone to crack. But I don't think the tensile strength or compressive strength would be any higher.

I think another variable is whether the two layers are fully bonded together.

I'm guessing in this case there's probably not much of a functional difference either way.

Compression and distraction and toughness are most certainly affected and improved with lamination.

 

[Coug]

It also is kind of dependent on what is being used as the binding agent for the lamination.

 

[Autonomy_Lost]

Compression and distraction and toughness are most certainly affected and improved with lamination.

Perhaps on materials like wood or fiberglass where there is a grain. I'd be interested to see if there is a source proving that to be true for a homogenous material like aluminum.

Edit: toughness sure, but that goes back to my point about flexibility.

 

[Coug]

Wood and fiberglass will both absorb the gluing agent into the fibers, effectively becoming one with the fibers. You have a much stronger bond because of this, and the base materials are strengthened with the additional bonding agent absorbed into the fibers.

When gluing two pieces of metal together you only get a surface bond, no penetration. The bonding/gluing agent doesn't soak in at all, and the only hold is the microscopic imperfections in the surface of the metal. It doesn't alter the properties of the base material like it does with the wood or fiberglass.

Lets use glass as an example. If you laminate glass, it doesn't make the glass particularly stronger than identical thickness of glass that doesn't have the lamination in the middle. Glass gets laminated for safety reasons, to control what happens to the glass shards when it gets broken, not to increase it's resistance to damage or change other physical attributes. Also one layer getting broken doesn't necessarily affect any other layers, as that layer breaking absorbs energy lowering the amount of energy going to other layers. Also true in composite armors, multiple layers (often of different materials) laminated together to absorb and dissipate energy, but not necessarily any stronger than if you just made the entire thickness of a single layer of the strongest material in the lamination.

The main advantage I could see to having a laminated metal door is to reduce noise. The glue/bonding agent would absorb a lot more vibrations/rattles than a solid piece would, therefore making it quieter overall. Whether that makes any real difference in practical application though would remain to be seen.

 

[Action]

And, it may be cheaper to buy two sheets of 1/4” material than it is to buy one sheet of the same material in 1/2” thickness.
easier to work with thinner layers, too.

 

[HmmwvTim]

my doors are in.

 

[HmmwvTim]

i still have to align them. He did good work rounding the x pattern. It is not just an x cutout. Time was taken on this to make it nice.

 

[Action]

my doors are in.View attachment 865365View attachment 865366View attachment 865367

WOW ! Thats a huge gap at the top. Adjusting will not fix that.

 

[Twisted Metalworks]

WOW ! Thats a huge gap at the top. Adjusting will not fix that.

I can guarantee that is the angle of the picture. Also the door seal is not in place.

 

[HmmwvTim]

That door is not closed. It is opened and sitting on loose bolts. Just saying. I didn’t mount anything just a quick dry fit with loose hinges.

i was happy about the c piller. i expected that there would be a big gap at the top of the c piller. It seems to follow the piller nicely It might have been an issue on older trucks though.

I did notice that my rail on my passenger side may be a little low. I noticed it from the bolt points on the windshield a long time ago. I guess until i put hard doors on it, I never knew how slopy they put those rails on. i guess I am going to have to relocate those.

 

[HmmwvTim]

i do have a question for the seals you recommended. It is rated for 9/64 thickness. Will this sit properly? I found a site that allows for proper fitting but it is 450$ for a 250’ roll. you might want to look into this for future packages to see if it fits better.

Too pricey for me since i only need about a 10th of that.

 

[Twisted Metalworks]

i do have a question for the seals you recommended. It is rated for 9/64 thickness. Will this sit properly? I found a site that allows for proper fitting but it is 450$ for a 250’ roll. you might want to look into this for future packages to see if it fits better.

Too pricey for me since i only need about a 10th of that.
View attachment 865397

Yes i am always looking for better. As i can test different things i will update you guys. I have not had a issue except it does require some time to install without damaging. I welcome input from customers on better things or ideas. Always room for improvements.

 

[HmmwvTim]

Yes i am always looking for better. As i can test different things i will update you guys. I have not had a issue except it does require some time to install without damaging. I welcome input from customers on better things or ideas. Always room for improvements.

if you buy a role of 250’ can you sell me a 10th of it? How much length is it for all 4 doors?

 

[Twisted Metalworks]

if you buy a role of 250’ can you sell me a 10th of it? How much length is it for all 4 doors?

Sorry Tim. I am just seeing this. Front doors need around 12ft i believe. Backs about 15 or 16. I am looking at different options. That is the nice thing of using a universal door seal, lots of options.