Hard Starting and my plan

[stationjj]

I have 84 M1009 with hard starting issues. I know this topic has been covered many times on the site. I have poured through countless threads and reviewed TMs searching for some clues to what may be causing the hard starting issues.

Brief history, I purchased this CUCV from a individual in May. The previous owner had replaced starter, alternator, GP Relay, GP controller card, rebuilt IP, and added electric fuel pump.

I myself replaced GPs, and added Doghead starter relay. I suspect that the GP resistor bypass has already been done.

It seems that as it got hotter from early May it became harder to start. If it starts I get some white smoke and then it's gone as it idles. The idling seems to be smooth. It will crank, but not turn over.

My plans are as followed;
Replace fuel filter with screw on type.
Check Fuel lines air leakage.
Add manual GP switch. (oddly at one time it had one, but was taken out)
Double check output on batteries and starter.

An idea I thought about is a problem with temp sensor? Is this located on driver side engine block near front GP?

What's everyone's thought on this plan? Do you have anything to add? From my research I am kinda running out of options on what it may be.

Thank you for your advice.

stationjj

 

[Matt65]

I will throw a few more things out there that you may want to confirm. Be patient with her, the problem will eventually expose it's source.

Fuel pressure into the IP, IP timing -scribe marks alligned and possibly suspect the IP rebuild itself. Perhaps Pop Test the injectors.

Are you able to get it running at all, and is all good until you shut it down hot and attempt re-start? How's the power while driving?

 

[DDT]

the coolant sensor on the driver side will not make it NOT start. I currently have mine unplugged as my dash coolant light flickers on at times with normal engine temps. So for now i have just unplugged it and starts like a champ.

Have you checked the timing for the IP pump? there is a mark on the pump and a mark centered on the timing case. if the pump's line is to the left (passengerside) the the pump is retarded, I using a 15mm long wrench and a 15mm ratcheting wrench adjusted it to the right (towards the drivers fender). you loosen 3 bolts holding the pump and easily with a pry bar walk it over about a 1/4". I centered mine with a stamped semi circle on hte timing case. If your truck is fresh off the base the pump WILL BE RETARDED.

Good luck its a big improvement

 

[stationjj]

Matt,

Thanks for your input. Where in Alabama are you? I grew up in north Alabama.

Fuel pressure on IP interesting idea. Oddly, after purchase of CUCV I put it on a rack to check underneath. We found some minor oily base leakage. Without fully removing IP we determined it was coming from IP plug on bottom and a injection line. After we tighten every thing on IP we reduced leakage dramatically.

It takes a long time to get her started. If I drive her and let it sit 1-2 hours it will crank up in a little less time, but still hard.

After I added a radio and 2 cig lighters. I did notice the voltage dropped a little. We are slightly in the yellow now.

Maybe IP rebuild not right?

Thanks!

 

[stationjj]

IP timing? This is new to me. Another interesting idea.

I do suspect this CUCV is 12-18 months off Camp Shelby. So yes you could consider it fresh off a base. The previous owner did replace IP, and other repairs and sold it to me.
Did he confirm timing of IP?

I will need research IP timing more.

Thanks for your help.

stationjj

 

[mistaken1]

I suspect that the GP resistor bypass has already been done.

Easy to confirm, just trace wires and or measure the voltage at the top of the glow plug relay with the key off. If you read 12v the 12V conversion has been done.

It seems that as it got hotter from early May it became harder to start. If it starts I get some white smoke and then it's gone as it idles.

Most people around here indicate that hard hot starts are an IP problem. Did the PO install a new IP, a rebuilt IP or a used IP? In other words unless you know it was new or rebuilt by a reputable builder it may still be bad.

An idea I thought about is a problem with temp sensor? Is this located on driver side engine block near front GP?

Did you download all of the CUCV manuals from the resources section? The trouble shooting section tells you how to test the GP temp sensor. (800 ohms minimum measured at the GP card)

 

[Barrman]

White smoke on start up indicates more fuel than heat. Are you sure all 8 glow plugs are getting 12 volts?

Put a volt meter on each battery while the truck is running. If you are in the yellow on the volt meter, one of your alternators isn't working. 14.4 volts at each battery between the post is what you should have.

 

[stationjj]

Thanks everyone for your input. I look to tackle the hot hard starting problem in the next week.

As mistaken1 pointed out the IP could be the issue. As I pointed out above. We had a small leak on IP plug, and previous owner did replace with a rebuilt IP. Who rebuilt IP??
I hope I don't have to place IP.

Since I have never bought an IP is between $460 and $490 a good price for a rebuilt IP in today's market?

I will keep you updated.

thanks

stationjj

 

[Matt65]

I believe my rebuild was under $200, but you can confirm in my older post. I used Tim@ http://www.accuratediesel.com/ . Very pleased with his work.

Make certain this is your problem though. You wouldn't want to pull the IP, have it rebuilt, reinstall it and still have the problem later.

 

[jdknech]

i had this problem and figured out that there was a loose clamp on the fuel line from the fuel pump to the filter, it was letting all the fuel in the line drain back into the tank as it set over a couple of hours.. i tightned the clamp and the problem went away