Hard starting CUCV's

[stuinnh]

No numbers, just tell them fuel pressure switch in CUCV filter base. Should have O ring and spring clip to hold in place.
Also, all other Stanadyne 80 parts can be ordered from local Stanadyne dealer, or they can ship them to you. They have the O rings and bleeder valves etc.

 

[tequilaiam]

If you remove filter from base you should be able to see switch and and if it is leaking from there.
Again, this is for hard starting in both cold and warm weather. If leaking is not from pressure switch then you may be right. Of course the easy way to deal with it is replace military filter base with civy one. My 1008 has a cummings filter base in it.

Should this be in the FAQ? Last month I got my 09 starting perfectly by addressing this. I didn't see any evidence of fuel leaking but with clear tubes I found where air was getting in (through the switch). I plugged it with a screw and some seal-all but same result. Now it starts on the first crank, below freezing after sitting a week or more.

 

[top_prop]

I replaced my filter with a spin on. I the symptoms have persisted... Starts and dies. Won't start. I starts and dies... Starts runs a while the dies... I just checked all hose claims were tight. I have grown very frustrated. I think it may be time for a new ip.

 

[deepseeman]

so Im trying to figure out my hard start issue and thinkin it might be that switch. here are my symptoms; morning time she is a bit difficult. starts, the dies, starts then i need to work the pedal to get her to idle, idle is a bit rough. on the initial drive off, after a block, she just takes off. guess the air is out. when warm, she starts up fine. I did notice if i loosen the gas cap it doesnt do it as much. i also put a clear line on top of the pump and do find air in it after sitting. would that switch be my issue?

 

[lostinutah]

just a quick thanks to an old post. Ive been having the same problems. since i purchasing "the rattler" (85 m1009), Ive been having hard starts. Changed the starter, glow plugs, manual gp switch, cussed, hit things with hammers, bled lines, cussed some more, read threads, cussed some more, a few more hammer hits. then i found this thread. I pulled the filter off and pulled out the pressure switch. It was covered in a diy silicone gasket that had apparently lost its function. I cleaned the hole and switch and used some black silicone oil resistant gasket maker on the filter assy and around the switch after reinserting. reinstalled the fuel filter, bled the air. and wouldn't you know a 4.99 fix that cost me well over 300 bucks to figure out. I almost got a new IP, luckily now its not an issue. as my wife would have killed me for blowing more money on my truck. Thanks to all who helped with this thread. and i hope any future searchers will try this first. adding to help future people in need... hard start air bleed fuel starter injector pump. good luck to everyone else who will indeed have this problem. p.s. remember to check your starter bolts from time to time, you wont like what happens when they get loose.

 

[bimota]

Can someone clarify if when removing and filter and housing with a spin on - does some form of check valve need to be put in? I have the hard starting (crank for long time then starts - with foot in pedal) symptom but I pulled the whole filter housing and replaced it with a Cummins spin on. Looks nice and the truck runs and drives fine though after sitting it needs a good 15 second crank with the pedal to the floor to fire up. Ruined one starter already don't want to go down that path again. New GPs, new starter, runs great after starting - the only issues is after it sits for a day it needs a 15 second crank with pedal to the floor. I'm about to replace mechanical lift pump thinking there might be a check valve in the mechanical pump.

Some theory of operation would be great to add to this threads quick $3,99 fixes to help us geeks modify and not make it worse.

 

[bikermichael]

I had the long start problem and started by converting to manual glow plug solenoid. That helped, but then the engine would start and run for ten seconds or so, die, & take forever to start. It would not start without holding accelerator down - sometimes half way and sometimes to the floor. A friend told me to stomp it to the floor and release to set cold high idle solenoid; it helped but problem persists. I now plan to change to electric fuel pump. Anyone have a suggestion as to which make or model works best?

 

[cpf240]

Can someone clarify if when removing and filter and housing with a spin on - does some form of check valve need to be put in? I have the hard starting (crank for long time then starts - with foot in pedal) symptom but I pulled the whole filter housing and replaced it with a Cummins spin on. Looks nice and the truck runs and drives fine though after sitting it needs a good 15 second crank with the pedal to the floor to fire up. Ruined one starter already don't want to go down that path again. New GPs, new starter, runs great after starting - the only issues is after it sits for a day it needs a 15 second crank with pedal to the floor. I'm about to replace mechanical lift pump thinking there might be a check valve in the mechanical pump.

Some theory of operation would be great to add to this threads quick $3,99 fixes to help us geeks modify and not make it worse.

Sounds to me like there is air getting into the system someplace. I'd start by replacing all rubber fuel lines that have not been replaced recently.

 

[tgtaylor64]

Check the voltage on the bottom of the glow plug solenoid while the Wait light is on during a cold start. It should be close to 12 VDC or so. Your glow plugs must be getting hot for it to fire. It should start up with less than one second of starting. Checks whether your batteries are putting out and if your solenoid is passing the required voltage to the plugs. These are cheap, easy, and fast tests.

 

[stuinnh]

Sounds like glow plugs. All plugs working? Solenoid triggering? Still 24v? Check valve doesn't help. I converted one of my CUCVs to manual button for glow plugs. 10 seconds summer, 15 seconds winter.
One was converted to 12v by local FD. Couldn't get started when they needed it. They didn't know to bypass resistor
Stu Ellis.