Hard starting, IP leaking

[galeo7171]

Its hard to start the 1009 in the mornings. I know the injection pump is leaking at the throttle shaft seal. Am I right to assume that the reason its hard to start up at first is because the fuel leaks out of the pump? My glow plugs are working, I think (I hear the relay clicking and I notice the voltmeter drop when it cycles). Other than replacing the pump, is there a way to to get the fuel back into the injection pump to make it easier to start?

 

[Mike_Pop]

How does the engine run after it starts? I had a bad O-ring in my throttle shaft on an M1009 that I was fixing up. I replaced it but didn't bother with a new seal. It leaked and made it difficult to start but it ran and continued to leak. The only thing to do is pull the IP and replace the seal. It only took me an hour and a half to pull the pump and put it back on.

 

[galeo7171]

It runs fine after if starts up. I can shut it off, and it'll will fire right up if not sitting for more than 5 hours. I noticed too that after it warms up, the leak stops

 

[Mike_Pop]

Is it leaking from the front of the IP? That's the sign of a bad seal. It's just a paper gasket but you have to pull the IP in order to replace it. If it stops leaking after it warms up, then it's probably sucking enough fuel to where it won't leak. Or, the heat is making the IP expand and tighten the seal.

 

[ssgtwright-usmc]

You said (hard to start in the mornings)! This tells me it sits all nights or its cold in the morning when trying to start.
Try testing your cold advance system..

 

[galeo7171]

Yes, its hard to start after sitting at night or even sitting after a long day, how would I test the cold advance

 

[Stalled]

A can of Scotts Liquid Gold furniture polish fires en right up.(really) I keep a can in the shop.This wont fix the i/p problem,but will keep the starter from becoming toast from excessive cranking.A clear hose on the return line will show bubbbles indicating air in the system(fuel) be carefull,air fools the internal mechanism into adv timing all the way,causing cracked blocks and heads.Get motor rolling THEN shoot the polish to it,will fire right up.GL is dumping complete 6.2 right now cheaper than the container is worth,you get spare i/p ect cheap.I got mine for $161.00 in container,picking up Weds morn. Stalled

 

[galeo7171]

I know all about picking up a spare 6.2. I just won two of them in containers from Redstone, AL. Waiting on my EUC to clear to pick them up. Won them for the $150 a piece

 

[msoumas]

Wish they would dump 6.2's around New England. :/

 

[dependable]

They sold a bunch of hummer 6.2s out of Maine a couple of months ago.

Scotts liguid gold? so this won't screw things like either?

RE original topic, check to see that round sensor behind the fuel filter is not leaking down.. this can cause the symtoms you describe. s

 

[MILRET45]

I'm sure you know, but a reminder that the HMMWV 6.2's have a 24V IP. Won't direct replace the CUCV IP.

 

[galeo7171]

I'm sure you know, but a reminder that the HMMWV 6.2's have a 24V IP. Won't direct replace the CUCV IP.

I was under the impression that it would swap over, you'd just have to switch the electrical crap from the cucv IP to the hmmwv IP

 

[Stalled]

I have never used either before but since the glow plugs COULD probably ignite it,I get them rolling first and a small shot and they go.You can switch out the fuel cutoff solenoid to the civvy on those 6.2 pumps.Just keep everything clean.Also,be ready to be able to mechanically kill the motor in case you install wrong.Choke its air,install a temp rubber line that can be pinched ect to kill a run away motor.DB2 pumps are not as bad as most believe I just repplaced mine on the 6.5 at 201,000 miles.