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Has anyone put a gear vendor in their truck?

73m819

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35 years ago, i built a 56 chev. pu for a work truck, among the many things i did was install a 1 1/2t rear , the gearing was high 4s, if not 5 something, this was fine for what i needed the truck for, but sucked for road use, i found a stand a lone GV unit from a motor home in a junk yard, used the shift solenoid from a 2 speed rear, i installed a 2 speed electric switch (the pull/push kind) on the 4 speed trans stick. this worked great, i shifted like i was driving a 2 speed rear and super road ability
 
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4bogginchevys

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2600$ is not that bad. First off let's rule out a TH700r4 swap cause we all know at best they are junk and still cost upwards of 1500$ to build a newer one(if you can find one) and install. So gthe other decent option is a 4l80e with a stand alone. Gonna cost you about 1500+ to buy and build one of those and then a stand alone compushift computer will be another 800+ so you are right up where the GV unit is not to mention 2600$ is direct buy from them. You can get them for about 22-2300 from a GV dealer. Also by using a GV you are keeping your CUCV non computerized. We all know what an EMP does to those ....
When funds allow my vote goes for the GV and I have put alot of thought into it. Then you keep the reliablity of the TH400 which can be rebuilt for about 300$ OTC. I would not bother doing for for fuel mileage but more for over the road drivabilty.

In my opinion a 700r4 is junk in stock form, however I have personally seen them "built" to handle serious hp/torque. They work well if you replace the wimpy parts with stout stuff. They are easier/cheaper to adapt than a 4l60/80e and more common in a junk yard. If you know someone that can rebuild a 700r with stout pieces your in good shape all around.
BTW. please correct me if I am wrong, I was under the impression that an EMP would affect powered up electronics, but not those that were disconnected from a power source?:-D
 

Stalwart

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During EMP incident, even electronics that are not in use can be damaged but those items that are in use are at a higher risk. The problem is the chips that you are trying to protect are still connected to wires that receive the current.
 

Recovry4x4

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The 700 is not readily hurt by a 6.2 if its the one that came behind a diesel. I've had several without issues. I know I can do a 700 swap for half or less than the G/V unit. This surely won't be the right path for many but it's the right path for me and I'm already collecting the parts to do my M1008.
 

skark_burmer

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i also wouldnt rule out a 700r4 for normal use. I am happy with the one in my civvy K5 and its got 220k on it and is just needing its first rebuild. And believe me when i say it does not live a sheltered life.
On the other hand a 4l80e is a more stout unit, but you need the controller and i think the stand alone controllers are about $1000.
 

Crackerjax

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I have a 700r4 in a k5 with 37 inch swampers and 12 inches of lift and running 4.56 gears and I have never had a problem out if it in any of the off roading that we have done. now granted its not compleatly stock (stronger bands and clutches) and an hd converter but we are running a stock valve body and have no problems with it in 120k miles it shifts solid and lockup is tight. now I have heard many things about 700r4 transmissions and such but its just like people arguing about dodge and chevy and ford and whos best and all that mess
if you want a decent transmission go for a manual it will last forever and will do better on gas mileage get a sm465....and put in 3.08 gears... youll be fine
 

86M10086.2L

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quote=Crackerjax;509229]if you want a decent transmission go for a manual it will last forever and will do better on gas mileage get a sm465....and put in 3.08 gears... youll be fine[/quote]

Thats what I'm looking to do. Problem is that most vendors only support up to 3.55's for the 14 bolt rear D60 combo. Plus swapping to anything lower than 4.10 gears requires new carriers etc... thats about 1000 in parts alone if you want to put comprable stuff to what the truck came with. Plus thats a permanent solution. With a OD unit or OD tranny you still keep the abilities of the trucks stock setup. And reap the benefits of better highway charecteristics. I have put great thought in this area. My best idea so far is to grab a civi 3/4 ton truck with a sm465/np208 and reasonable gearing. swap the tranny and the axles and see what happens. If I like it, I might spend the money on gears for the 14bolt/D60. If I like it alot, I'll go for the gear vendors unit. If you look hard enough and long enough you can find one of these truck for less than 1000 with a decent manual tranny.
 

acesneights1

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sm465 is the equivelent of a TH400 in final drive IIRC. No highway gain. An NV4500 out of a later model 6.5 would be the way to go.
 

Camo Tow

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I faced this dilemma with an86 F-250, diesel and a C-6. I wanted to get better driveability out of it and had two options, drop in a E4OD or get a GV.

The GV won out. It's a much cleaner install and much less to go wrong than trying to stuff the "wrong" transmission into the vehicle. The GV unit is bulletproof and works exactly as promised. If you want to calm the motor down at highway speed and can afford the GV unit buy it and don't look back.
 

hooyahdiver

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Im looking to get a gear vendor for my truck to get more milage out of it. i would go for a 700r4 conversion but i still want to be able to pull without having to rebuild transmissions every year. I was wondering if anyone has put one in thier m1008 and what the milage increase is. Only downfall to the gear vendor is that its kinda pricey but i wonder if i wouldn't save money over time.
I'm glad you asked about this. Someone was just telling me about it a few days ago and I couldn't remember what it was called. I want an overdrive but I don't want to put a lot of money in a 4L80e etc... Thanks.
 
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