fulleraviation
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Here are some pics of the head on my Duce. Looks like a possible coolant leak.
Should I pull the head or fly it and watch it?
Should I pull the head or fly it and watch it?
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Head Gasket Fix or Forget for Now!
- Thread starter fulleraviation
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Obviously, I can't tell what it looks like while running, but I have seen alot worse, run long term, without much trouble.
The second picture is the oil pressure bypass valve. Make sure the bolts are snug, and watch for leaks.
The headgasket, looks wet, but is it spraying out, or making sounds?
The second picture is the oil pressure bypass valve. Make sure the bolts are snug, and watch for leaks.
The headgasket, looks wet, but is it spraying out, or making sounds?
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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While on this topic, mine is much worse. Would I cause problems if I tried to re-torque the heads?
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In my opinion, re torquing while warm, is an effort worth trying as a last resort(before replacing the head gasket) unless it is visibly or audibly blown out(or burning coolant or oil). I would not exceed the high torque spec.
Last edited:
jatonka
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If your block has "TD" cast in it ahead of engine nameplate, correct headbolt torque is 157 ft/lbs. No "TD" cast in block, correct headbolt torque is 130 ft/lbs.
Retorquing your headbolts may help, but, a real mechanic on this site or another tech site might be able to shed some light on how much extra torque could be applied to get a bolt to break loose and turn after being in service and rusted for a long time. The torques I quoted above are for clean oiled threads, not for dirty, rusty, already been torqued threads. JT out
Retorquing your headbolts may help, but, a real mechanic on this site or another tech site might be able to shed some light on how much extra torque could be applied to get a bolt to break loose and turn after being in service and rusted for a long time. The torques I quoted above are for clean oiled threads, not for dirty, rusty, already been torqued threads. JT out