Headlight Woes

[83k30]

Headlight trouble began with the wife reporting the headlights being inoperable even after toggling the service light switch. After a few minutes she noticed they came on. I checked myself and they worked just fine.

Last night however I pulled the switch and got nothing Quickly checked my fuses and found them to be fine. While digging around under the hood the lights suddenly came on....just as the wife had earlier described. Went for fuel and this time, I initially noted my brake lights working and I shifted the truck into drive. As soon as I pulled the headlight switch I lost all lights. Today I began by pulling the dash and checking voltage. The service light toggle switch tested operational, with voltage passing to the headlight switch correctly. The measured voltage instantly disappears at both the headlight switch and the service toggle when the switch is pulled to either position. I should note that I tested both the original headlight switch and a new autoparts special with the same results. Voltage at the diamond shaped firewall junction block was fine with the switch on, which would mean battery power upto the fuse block is good.

I am confused as to why the 30amp headlight fuse is not popping? I'm not sure what to test in order to get to the bottom of my no lights issue. Any advice? Thanks in advance.

 

[royalflush55]

Check the grounds at all the light bulbs.

 

[Jeepadict]

I have a certain disdain when it comes to the 73-87/91 headlight switch. Always wondered what kind of crack the engineers were on when they designed them. I've had more than a couple give overly awkward behaviors that stumped some of the better squarebody guys I've known.

My second step after checking grounds under the dash would be to slave in a new switch (BWD/Borg Warner or better) and see how she behaves. Based on your description, I'll bet even odds your problem will be found under the dash with an intermittent wiring short if a new switch doesn't correct the behavior. Watch for wiring that may be out of a loom or chafing against something such as the steering collumn.

An item I prefer to note: the aftermarket HD headlight harness available from multiple sources such as Brothers or LMC. It gives a harness and relays dedicated strictly to the headlamps keeping the amperage draw from having to pass thru the headlight switch.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[cucvrus]

I answered this headlamp issue in the other post you inquired about it in. You have a melted 30 amp fuse circuit half way up on the right side of the fuse box. An inline fuse is needed to replace that circuit. That leg of power in the fuse box serves the brake lights also. Check it out. Good Luck. Report back.

 

[nyoffroad]

I answered this headlamp issue in the other post you inquired about it in. You have a melted 30 amp fuse circuit half way up on the right side of the fuse box. An inline fuse is needed to replace that circuit. That leg of power in the fuse box serves the brake lights also. Check it out. Good Luck. Report back.

This or the fuse is making intermittent contact with the spring terminals that hold the fuse in place. I've had some luck in cleaning and tightening them up but replacement is the best way to go.
" I am confused as to why the 30amp headlight fuse is not popping? " the fuse only "pops" when the load exceeds the fuse rating such as a short to ground, a poor connection will not blow a fuse.

 

[83k30]

I answered this headlamp issue in the other post you inquired about it in. You have a melted 30 amp fuse circuit half way up on the right side of the fuse box. An inline fuse is needed to replace that circuit. That leg of power in the fuse box serves the brake lights also. Check it out. Good Luck. Report back.

Thank you for the solid advice. I pulled the fuse box and checked behind the 30amp headlight circuit to find a melted/corroded power supply leading into the dash harness. I am curious as to how to fix it with the inline fuse? Hoping to get the truck back on the road today. Thanks again for the responses!

 

[Jeepadict]

CUCVRUS nailed it, nicely done! I completely forgot about them doing that.

The repair mentioned would be to take the melted end, trim then strip, add inline fuse holder w/30A fuse, then run to constant power source. This is a solid reccomendation that will get you back on the road "most ricky-tick".

If it was my beast I would effort the repair in a slightly different fashion. From the pic shown I don't see corrosion, I see heat damage. These that I've seen do this are culprit of a loose connector condition (intermittent short fault) that increased the resistance in the circuit causing increasing heat at the point of connection, enevitability leading to the condition you have now. Since you need ASAP fix, go for the inline fuse route. My preference would be to repair the connection at the fuse block (providing the block didn't suffer heat damage) back to a factory condition then add the HD headlight harness I mentioned previously available from someone like Brothers or LMC. This add-on harness goes under the hood with the headlight removing the amperage draw of the headlights from the headlight switch and circuit all together.

If you tow a conventional trailer this would be increasingly important as the common t-tap gizmos give you your trailer lights from the factory harness giving an even greater draw on that circuit for the brake lights on the trailer.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[ehuppert]

I also have a issue with my headlight switch.... Been restoring this truck for 2+ years now and mostly done excepting the bed! Pulled truck in prior to plow hook-up and whilst going over determined headlights not working! Turns out the new headlight switch is crap!

While everything was stripped down (to frame, etc) i installed relays for the headlights. Right side headlight wires became relay signal wires and ran new wiring and connectors to headlights. Relays are fused and powered off buss bar (12v) I've dealt with some of the aftermarket harness's in the past and I/you can definitely build better! Standard products makes a relay pigtail assembly which also makes life easier and neater

Relaying lights will take the load off the headlight circuit!

 

[cucvrus]

Thank you for the solid advice. I pulled the fuse box and checked behind the 30amp headlight circuit to find a melted/corroded power supply leading into the dash harness. I am curious as to how to fix it with the inline fuse? Hoping to get the truck back on the road today. Thanks again for the responses!

I don't have it in front of me at the moment but the leg that has power serves 2 circuits. Check me on this. I eliminate 1 and put a circuit breaker in. The other which from memory is the brake lights I add an inline fuse. Everything should work. But double check while you have the bulkhead connection apart. It is very easy to do. Good Luck. I have used this type in the past. Easy as that. Auto Reset Automotive Breakers, Type I, High Amp (wiringdepot.com)

 

[83k30]

Thanks again for all the help! Truck is fixed and lights work. I patched the factory harness and reinstalled. I will definitely be buying a headlight harness upgrade to help the old wiring from heating up. Will continue to troubleshooter loose connections in the circuit some more this week. Thanks again and Merry Christmas!

 

[cucvrus]

Very nice job. I never done any harness updates except the circuit breaker and the addition of Truck lite LED head lamps. Truck-Lite 5x7" LED Headlights (27450C) LED lights I TRS (theretrofitsource.com)
They are a bit pricey but they are worth every penny. I have had them in every CUCV I owned and they went along in the sale of each truck. Much better looking and very close to stock. Adding a set of these Amazon.com: Partsam 2PCS Rectangle H6054 LED Headlights 5x7 7x6 Headlamp Hi/Low Sealed Beam H4 9003 Plug 6054 H5054 Compatible with Chevy S10 Blazer Express Van/Jeep Wrangler YJ XJ Cherokee Truck Ford Van: Automotive is like smearing _h_t on the front end and admiring it. Good Luck. Do it right the first time. Happy Holidays.

 

[cucvrus]

Mad Texan I have a new set of LED tail lamps for the rear of your M1010. Get back to me. They are the same exact duplicate design as stock M1010 lights but in LED. They have the LED B/U and the LED plate light and plate bracket. Get back to me. You were a Good Boy and Santa is feeling generous and wants to gift them to you. Happy Holidays. I installed a set of LED lights on my Kubota.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Those look pretty nice on that tractor, Rick. I might have to get a set for my BX25.

Course, I have to dig it out from under my collapsed hoop house, first. 14" of snow then a freezing rain was too much for it.

 

[cucvrus]

Those look pretty nice on that tractor, Rick. I might have to get a set for my BX25.

Course, I have to dig it out from under my collapsed hoop house, first. 14" of snow then a freezing rain was too much for it.

Hey let me know. I have some really nice ones that look perfect on the Kubota's. I have the B/U lamps on a toggle at the rear of the light. All the lights work and I have the amber flashers still hooked up and the turns on the LED's. It lights up at night real well. I have a strobe for the roll bar. Never wanted to rig a switch to the rocker pedal for the B/U lamps. This old tractor is small but built like a tank. It can do anything I need done. It basically serves as my back bone. Merry Christmas. Let me know I have several types. Lots of 4" grommet mounted and flange mounted.

 

[Mad Texan]

Mad Texan I have a new set of LED tail lamps for the rear of your M1010. Get back to me. They are the same exact duplicate design as stock M1010 lights but in LED. They have the LED B/U and the LED plate light and plate bracket. Get back to me. You were a Good Boy and Santa is feeling generous and wants to gift them to you. Happy Holidays.View attachment 821557 I installed a set of LED lights on my Kubota.

I need to get up to see you about some other things we talked about... long ago. Maybe next week.