Headlights flashing on and off

[K9Vic]

I know this is an older post, but this thread is better fitted for my reply then the http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/58586-cucv-cheap-headlight-great-result-2.html tread.

I mentioned there that my dimmer switch went out and never working on these I thought it was complicated to change out, but it is really easy. All you need is a Phillips, 3/8 wrench (10mm may work), 8mm wrench to change the dimmer switch out. You first remove the column covers with the Philips, the metal and plastic ones. Then you will see the dimmer switch under there, unplug it by pulling in the clips on each side. Then use two wrenches to remove the bolt and nut. Pull it out and off and the shaft will come out of the end of the switch. I may slide down, but you can remove the side cover at the wiper, turn and high beam switch. Now with the old dimmer switch out, replace it with your new one from Autozone that is less then $20. Place the rod in place while putting the switch back on the column, tighten the bolt & nuts, but do not over tighten. Then plug it back in and you are good to go. You will also notice that with it unplugged the lights are off, so if you are having headlights coming off and on, this switch may be the problem. You can always just replace it quickly with out digging into the column and set it to low beams.

Here are some pictures I took from my M1009. Hope this helps, I was quick with the steps, so if you have any questions just ask.

 

[MakersTeleMark]

Thank you so much for this. Do you know if you can change the wiper/turn switch without pulling the steering wheel?

 

[K9Vic]

Thank you so much for this. Do you know if you can change the wiper/turn switch without pulling the steering wheel?

That I do not know, but I am sure someone here will know. I will see if I can look at it and figure it out.

 

[MakersTeleMark]

I think I gained some insight (no pun intended) into this problem tonight. Was coming back from a pheasant hunt and pulled into the gas station. Went to start her up and no lights at all. Peaked at the fuse box and the 30amp was fried. Parked her, then began a nice 10:30pm walk to see if I could find a replacement. Found one at another gas station. Hiked back to the truck, installed the fuse, hit the lights and just the marker lights came on. I wiggled my broken wiper/high beam switch and they came on. So, there must be a short in that lever. I tailgated a semi all the way home in case I had to hit the shoulder really quickly and crossed my fingers every time I hit a bump. Also didn't dare use the turn signals. So, I am hoping if I change out the lever, and while at it, the dimmer switch, I'll have this problem solved.

Also picked up the parts for a manual glow plug switch, the doghead mod, and a freeze plug block heater and lower rad hose heater. It was 28 when I left the house this morning and it took a couple cycles of the plugs to get the muther cucker going, then a few more minutes to get the ice off the windshield.

 

[MakersTeleMark]

Small update. Replaced the turn signal lever (probably a good idea anyway given the CUCV motto) and it turns out that the very easily accessible dimmer switch is the likely culprit. Part on order. I'll put it in tomorrow and report back.

In other news, lower rad hose and freeze plug heaters are in. We've been down in the mid 20's already at night, and while I've had a couple morning slow starts, the real cold will come around the corner quicker than I'd imagine. Should be a couple ski areas opening within the next week.

Now I've got to fix that glow plug switch. I can't get the meter to change from 1 when measuring resistance on the contacts. Would that indicate a momentary off and a fried switch? Anyone have a known good readily available momentary switch that can handle the amps for a very reasonable price?

 

[Nick Danger]

There is a circuit breaker in the headlight switch which can go bad
There suppose flicker before the fuse blows high electric draw or short will trip them
and cheep Chinese headlight switches sometimes fail right out of the box

 

[MakersTeleMark]

I know this is an older post, but this thread is better fitted for my reply then the http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/58586-cucv-cheap-headlight-great-result-2.html tread.

I mentioned there that my dimmer switch went out and never working on these I thought it was complicated to change out, but it is really easy. All you need is a Phillips, 3/8 wrench (10mm may work), 8mm wrench to change the dimmer switch out. You first remove the column covers with the Philips, the metal and plastic ones. Then you will see the dimmer switch under there, unplug it by pulling in the clips on each side. Then use two wrenches to remove the bolt and nut. Pull it out and off and the shaft will come out of the end of the switch. I may slide down, but you can remove the side cover at the wiper, turn and high beam switch. Now with the old dimmer switch out, replace it with your new one from Autozone that is less then $20. Place the rod in place while putting the switch back on the column, tighten the bolt & nuts, but do not over tighten. Then plug it back in and you are good to go. You will also notice that with it unplugged the lights are off, so if you are having headlights coming off and on, this switch may be the problem. You can always just replace it quickly with out digging into the column and set it to low beams.

Here are some pictures I took from my M1009. Hope this helps, I was quick with the steps, so if you have any questions just ask.

Just did this after I had no lights coming home from hunting last night. I cursed myself because the new switch in its parts box was sitting on the passenger seat. Like said above, very straightforward, except getting that 8mm screw back on was tricky. It's tiny and in a hard to reach spot. Truck started right up in 25 degree temps with 2 cycles of the glow plugs. Bought a long extension cord for the block and lower rad hose heater today.

Up next is to figure out the leak in my rear tire. I did get a good sidewall gash in UT that may have punctured the tube slightly. We'll see. Have to get some weatherstripping for the doors though. The draft was OK in the summer, but we've got between 6-12" of snow last night.

 

[MakersTeleMark]

RRG. Blowing 30amp fuses again. Twice last night. In a 100% whiteout, in 6" of snow at the top of a sick mountain pass, at night, towing a trailer. I almost died last night. Changed the fuse, and it lasted 5 minutes. I was sitting bait without my flashers. Almost got rearended by a semi crawling down the hill. She threw it in the ditch and I spent 2 hours getting her out and chained up. The road was shutdown, and I was broadcasting turns to her on the cb due to my familiarity with the road, and using her taillights to get me home. I was a wreck at that point. A good chunk of the state shut down.

 

[JDBUCKSAVAGE]

My son Colt had the same problem, it was the ground wire off the first battery to fender. Hope this helps...

 

[MakersTeleMark]

I'll check it again, thanks for chiming in.

 

[ralbelt]

subscribed

 

[Commander5993]

Wish I had figured out that the headlight dimmer switch ( high beam / bright light switch ) was UNDER the dash....
BEFORE I went and pulled the steering wheel, lock ring (without a lock ring compressor tool - made a tool but it was a lot harder), and everything else in there, only to have to put it all back together.......
Didn't think I needed the TM for something so common as this, learned the hard way this time.

Well... in the end at least I got the switch pulled and one on order from Oreilly's.

I hope Oreilly part number # DS136 is the right switch... as # DS136P was also listed, and both were made by the same manufacturer. Both of them look about the same in Oreilly's product photos, not sure what the difference is. Maybe one is for tilt steering? But the brackets at least look identical.

Anyone know by chance? Ran the numbers through the search, but zero results came up.

I know some people were talking about getting a switch from napa or autozone, but I never found what part number they were using to try to cross, as I don't have a napa or autozone near me anymore, so I have to cross everything to an Oreilly number.

~Thanks

Edit: This is on an M1008 CUCV by the way. Doubt that makes a difference though.

 

[rumplecat]

Since we are talking about head lights, when I picked up my M1008 from the national guard base, I tried running my lights and as soon as I did the horn sounded and stayed on anytime the light switch was on?

 

[Commander5993]

Since we are talking about head lights, when I picked up my M1008 from the national guard base, I tried running my lights and as soon as I did the horn sounded and stayed on anytime the light switch was on?

opcorn:

Sounds like your horn circuit is grounding to your headlight circuit somehow.

When I first got my M1008, the horn sounded like a toy car, it was really high pitch, and really low.
Since then, it has gotten much louder, but it is still really high pitch. Its funny, but it doesn't hurt anything, and it is loud enough now to be useful now if needed.
Again, I think part of the horn circuit problem is a ground issue due to corrosion. But that has gotten better with use. But the high pitch part I think is due to a problem with the horn itself. But its good enough.

 

[cpf240]

Since we are talking about head lights, when I picked up my M1008 from the national guard base, I tried running my lights and as soon as I did the horn sounded and stayed on anytime the light switch was on?

Maybe a shorted diode on the horn relay?

 

[pbrstreetgang]

In reverse, no lights

Had to replace the ignition lock on my 1009 and the sector gear
not knowing exactly what needed to be repaired at first, i broke down most of the column. I learned alot and fixed my issue after alot of cussing and fighting.

i got it all put back on tonight but now when i shift into reverse, my headlights turn off.

 

[dougco1]

Had to replace the ignition lock on my 1009 and the sector gear
not knowing exactly what needed to be repaired at first, i broke down most of the column. I learned alot and fixed my issue after alot of cussing and fighting.

i got it all put back on tonight but now when i shift into reverse, my headlights turn off.

That's handy, I manually turn my headlights off when backing up at night to see better. But I don't think I will spend the time to tear down my column to modify it.

 

[Barrman]

Just the head lights or all the lights? If it is just headlights, the plug for the high/low beam switch is probably coming apart because it is wrapped around the shifter linkage somehow.

 

[doghead]

Do not start a second thread, continue your original.

I've merged them.

 

[turnkey]

Sounds like it might be time to trade up to a working rig....My problem was dirt and loose fitting ground point....Just didn't run or lights turn on...Got the replace cable for the neg side of the battery and about 50 feet of 6 Ga electric wire from Home Depot...spent about 5 hours redoing the grounding wire on the rig, works great now....Some of the ground hook ups just fellow apart when I was working on them...Hope this helps....