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Headlights OR parking lights ???

Redleg130

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You mean like running lights? If you have the military three lever switch, "service drive" should be headlights and taillights or headlight and "running lights" (for all 4 amber lights) both with stop lights. The second type is what I have seen most often, and I found a reference here - MV Lighting Systems - Military Trader/Vehicles

Assuming that is what you mean, then you should have at least headlights and taillights, with the brake lights working with brakes applied.
 

John Mc

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You mean like running lights? If you have the military three lever switch, "service drive" should be headlights and taillights or headlight and "running lights" (for all 4 amber lights) both with stop lights. The second type is what I have seen most often, and I found a reference here - MV Lighting Systems - Military Trader/Vehicles

Assuming that is what you mean, then you should have at least headlights and taillights, with the brake lights working with brakes applied.
From what I can see from the internal wiring diagram for the 3 lever switch, and the wiring diagram for the M37, it does not appear possible to have the front amber lights (which I believe are referred to as the "Parking Lights") on at the same time as the headlights. For the M37 at least "Parking Lights" are the FRONT amber lights only. The only way to get them on is to be in either "Stop", or "Service Drive" position on the upper switch AND have the lower left switch on "Park". (Putting that lower left switch in Park disables the headlights even when in Service Drive.)
 

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NY Tom

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I have one yet to install.

Claims to work for multiple vehicles including M37. Out of stock at Eriks. Maybe give them a call? Google is giving me nothing.

 

G744

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Ah, don't overthink this. The truck was designed when all cars & trucks did front lighting that way.

If you are OCD about it for 'safety' cut the lead from the park lights, and splice it into the lead going to the taillights.

Voila!
 

Rdinatal

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I'm neither OCD, nor does NC require it. I just thought it odd the front yellow lights (whatever the proper name is) did not work when the headlights are on. It's either one or the other, not both.

I will eventually wire them up but that's lower on the 'ToDo List' right now. My priority is the directional signals. Since the signals are there they must be working. If they weren't installed then arm signal is lawful. Then again how many under 30 really know what they are...

Thanks for all the help on this.
 

Rdinatal

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Having problems with your Blinkas check out Blinker Troubleshooting and please don't like or subscribe :rolleyes::D
Thanks! Your hint on jumping the wires at the flasher helped me figure out what's wrong.

The flasher is bad, for one. The wiring was incorrect, it was also labeled incorrectly. I ran out of time with one issue left. When the right directional is on the left also is on. Deep diving into the rear wiring next.

I have the wires labeled and plans to rewire for the front marker lights to be on when the rears are on. To keep the load down I'm changing to all LED bulbs. The new flasher will also be LED compatible.
 

Mullaney

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Thanks! Your hint on jumping the wires at the flasher helped me figure out what's wrong.

The flasher is bad, for one. The wiring was incorrect, it was also labeled incorrectly. I ran out of time with one issue left. When the right directional is on the left also is on. Deep diving into the rear wiring next.

I have the wires labeled and plans to rewire for the front marker lights to be on when the rears are on. To keep the load down I'm changing to all LED bulbs. The new flasher will also be LED compatible.
.
Yessir, that should work - especially if you get a LED compatible flasher
 

Wreckclues

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When the right directional is on the left also is on.
Could be a ground issue. Tactical Repair described a situation when his right directional was on the low beam headlights also flashed. Turned out to be a bad ground in the right rear flasher. Electrons followed the path of least resistance into the low beams.
 

G744

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Keep in mind the standard Milspec flashers/control handles are poorly designed. One quicky short anywhere between the handle and lights, one or both are gone. At the least, put an inline 10A fuse in the flasher feed and brake light switch.

At the best, get the one by Nartron, rather than the one where you set the 4-ways by pulling on the lever.

Nartron.jpg
Good one.


Bad turnswitch.jpg

Junk one.
 

Redleg130

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Location
Kansas
I have a Signal Stat 900 in my M37, I am not sure if these were ever government purchased items or not, but they sure do look the part, particularly when painted green. Mine appears to be rugged and solid, I don't feel like I have to be gentle with it. They seem to be a popular choice, I am sure you will be happy with it.

e5.jpg
 

Mullaney

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I have a Signal Stat 900 in my M37, I am not sure if these were ever government purchased items or not, but they sure do look the part, particularly when painted green. Mine appears to be rugged and solid, I don't feel like I have to be gentle with it. They seem to be a popular choice, I am sure you will be happy with it.

View attachment 919599
.
Yep. You got the "real mccoy"!
The metal box and even the Hazards are metal as well.
 
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