Heated fuel tank project, biodiesel, WVO..

[rdixiemiller]

Bjorn
Look for a pneumatically actuated 3 way valve. Since deuces have an air system, why not? I would look for ones that are single acting, spring return. Set them up to default (via spring) to the diesel side. That way, you would always start on diesel if your air tank was unpressurized. You can find toggle or rotary air actuation valves that mount in the dash for your control source.
28VDC 3 way valves might be hard to find.
You will need to make sure whatever valve you do find has seals that will withstand Bio Diesel.
I can buy 3/8 NPT bronze valves with PTFE packing for about $25 each from McMaster Carr. Mount the valves facing each other and have a centralized lever actuate both at one time. That way you switch both valves at the same time, always.

 

[cranetruck]

I did consider the pneumatics. The controls and the plumbing are negatives. The switch alone cost more than I want to spend at the moment. The switch for my air operated exhaust brake is the same as the one used for the front axle air shift. It cost about $40. My mil spec switches run about $8/ea.
Besides, most of the wiring and switches are already in place.
The pneumatic valves may not operate well at low temperatures (sub zero).
It's easier to interface a delay timer with electrically operated valves and that's a definite future option.
I'll be using a manual 3-way ball valve until I find the right 28V valve(s).

Thanks for your input, it's good to have a few people on the same wavelength when doing these things.

Bjorn

 

[mangus580]

Although they are 12v, it might be worth looking into the valve that GM used in the 80's dual tank setup for their pickups.

Just a thought....

 

[Armada]

The GM valves are about $100 if I recall.

 

[cranetruck]

The dual compartment tank in place. All the features of the standard tank are installed on the "auxilliary" tank. Still some plumbing to do, openings covered with tape because of the rain.
The fuel level sending unit is trash, so I need one of those sooner or later.

Bjorn

 

[Recovry4x4]

That is so cool Bjorn. Since I've been having some fruitful ideas lately I have one for the fuel tank levels. On the gauge panel one could add a second fuel level gauge where the bright indicator goes. The bright indicator could be moved to the center of the gauge panel. Then its just a simple wiring job and presto, 2 fuel level gauges.

 

[Armada]

I did that very same thing to my gage panel in anticipation of adding an auxilary tank. The tank is about ready to be removed from the donor truck. I also added a low air pess. warning light to the center of the panel and disconnected the buzzer. The high beam indicator light is on the far right. I will try to get a picture of it.

 

[ken]

Bjorn, Sure i'll run another sample for you. If you need my address again send me a PM and i'll get you fixed up. Sorry, i can't sell the centrafuge. I need it for seperating used motor oil.

 

[cranetruck]

About the second fuel level sensor. I'll be adding a toggle switch just below and to the left of the fuel gauge. Up position= main tank, down position (momentary contact) = aux fuel tank. One gauge plus one switch will do the job. I won't be driving on the aux tank so its fule level is only needed now and then. The 12-15 gallons should be enough for months.
Bjorn

 

[cranetruck]

This is how I now wash the biodiesel.
The Ph value of the WVO is about 6.0, the unwashed bio has a Ph of about 8.0 and the washed bio 7.0. That's what the Ph meter indicates and it's probably within 0.5 points or so.

I pour 10 gallons of unwashed bio in the barrel and sprinkle water for 20 minutes or so (about 5 gallons) over it. Next comes the hard part, waiting.. for several days. Then open the drain cock at the bottom, drain the milky colored water and sprinkle another 5 gallons on top. Let sit another few days and scoop the washed biodiesel from the top. It comes out clear and a little more pale amber than the unwashed stuff.

Bjorn

 

[Opie]

Cranetruck, Here's a discussion of centrifuges on a biodiesel site and a possible source of an inexpensive centrifuge - a cream separator! http://forums.biodieselnow.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8755

 

[cranetruck]

Thanks Opie, Ken's (TX) centrifuge worked well....He could open up a biodiesel laundromat.

Bjorn

 

[hummin2london]

Bjorn, I noticed in your pics that you have some sort of board in front of the radiator. Is that in lieu of a bra? It gets what we like to call "ass cold" over here and need some way to keep it warm. Any details would be appriciated. On the veggie note, some folks use cooked veggie oil here with dash of white spirit (to break down the solids). Would that go through the pump on my mulit fuel or would the cold weather be an issue. If its too long an answer and its posted elsewhere, just point me in the right direction.

oh, and diesel is about 8 dollars a gallon over here

Cheers!

 

[cranetruck]

Hummin2london, the 3/4 inch plywood is a more or less permanent "winter radiator cover". Held in place with cable ties. It helps a lot in keeping the engine at operating temp while running the crane and on the highway at ambients below approx 65F.

The biggest problem with veggie oil is temperature. People who run on nothing but, heat the oil in the tank to about 150F. Solids must be filtered out (2 to 5 micron). Both VO and BD will begin to cloud up at 40F.
Add enough "spirit" (wood alcohol) and lye and make biodiesel.

$8/gallon! Start looking for a fish and chips place that will give you the WVO.

Bjorn

 

[hummin2london]

Thanks! Yep, you can get all the cooked veggie oil you can haul off since the chip shops have to pay to dispose of it.

Since were talking about fuel tanks, you may have noticed that I have a second tank where the spare used to be. I got it for free because it has two small pinholes in the lower seam. I forgot to cover them up before I painted the truck but you used to be able to see them. very tiny and weeped fuel vs. a proper drip.

How best to fix the seam?? Solder, epoxy, child with rag running alongside??

Thanks heaps.

 

[FSBruva]

Cole-

Child idea sounds like a winner. Improving the fitness of today's youth!!!

Matt

 

[cranetruck]

Fix the fuel tank with fiberglass.
Grind paint off down to the metal. You may have more pinholes than you can see, so cover larger areas when removing the paint.

Bjorn

 

[rdixiemiller]

If the leak is accessible from the outside of the tank, solder it up with a big soldering copper.

 

[Armada]

This is the dual fuel gage set-up I mentioned, if anyone is interested. Sorry for the poor quality pic. Anyway, the primary tank is hooked up to the right side gage. When I get the secondary tank in, it will take the place of the spare tire carrier on the left side. There are a couple ways to wire and plumb it, but haven't decided which wah to go yet.

 

[cranetruck]

It's the little stuff that take a lot of time when working on a project.
The images below show the control panel for the dual tank system and the two black boxes house the 24 to 12 volt converter and the relays for the warning light on the panel. The light will come on when the return fuel runs to a tank which does not have its pump running (purging the lines). Also if the fuel pressure is below 5 psi.
The open space in the panel is for the fuel temperature gauge.
The switch below the fuel gauge selects the tank, the aux position is momentary (spring loaded).
The toggle switch in the center opens and closes a valve which controls the flow of coolant to the heating coil within the main tank.

Bjorn