Heater duct foam filler

[rcamacho]

Replacing the crossover duct to the driver side. Of note the plenum has a foam filler that makes it challenging to r&r the hose.

https://youtu.be/6HkpSMromEY


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Action]

Is this a question or a statement?

Taking the diverter box off makes it much easier to hook up hoses.
You can pull the plastec vents out and try to seal them up better, attach hoses and push back in.
Tilting the windshield frame forward will allow you to get your fingers in from the top to align the plastic ducts when putting back in.

 

[rcamacho]

Yeah, figured out the same after reading the TM for diverter box removal. Still working on that, all the screws are out of the diverter but it will not budge.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

You have to remove the panel under the a-pillar to access the foam and duct....
its a lot of work....

 

[rcamacho]

Finished...
All new hoses. Body glue on diverter had to be removed


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[NormB]

Finished...
All new hoses. Body glue on diverter had to be removed
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What kind of glue did you use to put it back? I’m puzzling out how to get the diverter and the dash/instrument panel free and figured there had to be some kind of adhesive, or the windshield frame was holding the parts down somehow.

I’ve got time to figure it out; had to order a 1.5” ID hose for the driver’s toe heater.

 

[rcamacho]

Looks like body sealing glue from the factory. I used a razor knife to carefully remove the glue seams.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[NormB]

Yeah, figured out the same after reading the TM for diverter box removal. Still working on that, all the screws are out of the diverter but it will not budge.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

MAN, what a chore.

Took me a while to figure out the BOTTOM was glued in place.

I have a collection of pain scrapers from decades past, and a cheap set of wood chisels I use for such jobs (I have a good set for woodwork).

Inch by inch I pounded a 1 inch chisel, then a 3 inch paint scraper underneath (underNEATH! That’s supposed to be held in place by 9 screws, whoever decided to use GLUE should be shot... if dead, resurrected and shot) and FINALLY got the diverter and then the cross-piece and dash panel loose.

Glad I did. Somewhere along the way someone had dinged the cross-piece (the one with the sliding vent by the driver) so the vent didn’t work. I removed the four pop rivets, pounded out the dent, did some rest-fitting, reassembled the thing and did some touch up painting.

New diverter box and hoses should be here in a couple days.

Why new? can’t seem to get flaps to close up right, and for $30 delivered, why not.