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Heath's M35A2... the beginning

welldigger

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Benton LA
View attachment 435537


That's how bowed the front of the bed is. Not pretty, but then again, nothing that really bothers me either.

I'm thinking a couple of holes with large eye-bolts and run a strap back to a good sized tree out the back of the bed. See if that can yank it back to square. While I'm fixing everything else I might as well give it a tug.
I don't know if that sheet metal can be pulled back into shape. Its so stretched that it will be warped. Probly would look better bowed out like it is. Now the top rail could be straitened pretty easy. Weld a chunk of chain to it in the approximate center of the dent. Then maybe a couple of chunks on either side of that. Then back up to a tree and using your com-a-long, pull the bed front back to square. When your done just grind the chain off and clean the welds up. No new holes needed.
 

Heath_h49008

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That's about what I'm thinking as well.

The paint stripping tests are done... Pressure washer first.. then needle scaler... then wet sandblaster. Polycarbide discs for the big flats the needle scaler fails at cutting.

I think that is the most cost effective method to get the job done without a full sandblast booth and a complete teardown afterwards to clean out the sand.
 

cobra5

Active member
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Stevensville, Montana
Did the gentlemen that sold you the truck get it from GL or a private party? Who ever applied the tan paint didn't do a good prep job. The truck will look real nice when your done, keep up the good work.
 

phil2968

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Lakeland, Florida
Did the gentlemen that sold you the truck get it from GL or a private party? Who ever applied the tan paint didn't do a good prep job. The truck will look real nice when your done, keep up the good work.
I have two tan M35's that came from the Georgia National Guard. They were painted in a hurry with no prep. The military does not always do the best work!
 

ducer

Member
297
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Location
Ober, indiana
Here's a little trick I use when stripping the paint off of a car with several paint jobs or good quality catalized paint. Apply a nice thick coat of paint stripper (in the shade, no direct sunlight) and then immediatly cover with seran wrap (celophane for wrapping food) and let it sit and get all nice and bubly. The celophane wrap keeps the stripper from drying out and therefore active longer so you use less and it works harder. On some cars also I just use a razorblade and nothing else but I cant teach that technique on the puter.

Welding a link of chain is ok but you run the real risk of creating high spots and making a mess of things when you make your pulls, becareful. It might be easier for a novice (no insult intended, I dont know your skill level) to get a heavy piece of plate and drill a hole in the center and then drill a hole in the center of your dent, run a heavy eye bolt through it, slowly make your pull, while straitening the metal as necessary with light fast hammer taps. This way you would stand a better chance of not going to far and the heavy plate would act as a backing dolly for your hammer hits. When you are done weld closed the holes you made. You can work slower and more careful that way incase you need to go back over something.

I hope this helps, good luck,

Denny
 

bigginstactical

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port angeles washington
go to the store and get a D ring, whatever size you want that has the mounting plate. weld it on the dent and come along it out. When your done leave the d ring because you can always use more tie downs! haha We usually weld what are called pull tabs onto vehicles but you have to have the right clamps so the d ring trick is one we have used on heavy equipment. Best of luck and cant wait to see the final product!
 

Diecorpse

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Grand Island, Nebraska
Hope everything works out for you. When its all done, that thing will an eye catcher even over built up 4x4's and muscle cars. . . just something about those military trucks really catches everybody's attention. If you need to have work done or guidence, I delt with Dave at D and D euipment, this guy has worked on these trucks before and he really knows his stuff. He is located in Big Rapids MI. I know it's far, but he is reasonably priced and willing to deal. Good luck with your truck and looking forward to seeing some pics when ahe's finished.
 

Heath_h49008

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Did the gentlemen that sold you the truck get it from GL or a private party? Who ever applied the tan paint didn't do a good prep job. The truck will look real nice when your done, keep up the good work.
As was said by others, Uncle Sam didn't do the best paint work. This truck was a private purchase but unchanged from when it left GL. I have counted at least 5 distinct paint jobs. Going back in time desert tan (Modern), pinkish-desert tan(Gulf War I?), at least two different 3 color jobs... one mostly black and one mostly green, and the original Vietnam era semi-gloss with the big white stars on the door and hood numbers. While all of the layers are somewhat attached in spots, only the original Vietnam era green has any real signs of prep work or concern for the job done. For the underside of the truck that Vietnam era green can stay as my base coat once it's roughed up a bit. The red oxide primer under the 'Nam paint is as tough as nails... which I actually like. It will be a fine base to build upon.

I hope this thing turns out the way I want. If it works it will be unique and very tough to see.

With any luck I'll be laying down grey paint before the week is out. Pics/video on the stripping process to follow.
 

59apache

Chipmaker
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48
Location
Bavaria / Germany
:) my truck has also different paintjobs on it....an many parts from different trucks. A modern sand on the windshieldframe, a who-knows blue-green on the toolbox door, about 2mm different colours on the hood. On a (poorly) welded section on the cowl nice primer red. Inside (dash, aso) the same. oh, yes..carc green on the doors....but true love sees the beauty underneath:)


keep up with your work, it's worth it!
 
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Heath_h49008

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Kalamazoo/Mich
This week, then next week... then a week off to work on the truck.

I have a lot done already,75% of the paint is off. 4 gallons of paint acquired, need to pick up my primer. Parts found, it's going to be a big day to drive about 350 miles to pick up stuff from Copemish and Holland some time between now and then. Looking at the transmission, wipers, hood, some wheels and tires, a turn signal, and some other odds and ends. Last round of tool purchases for the big week almost done... New Turbo Nozzle big enough to work on my pressurewasher, more 6 ton jackstands big enough to get all of the wheels off at once, might need a new engine hoist for the trans swap...





Pics to follow.
 

Heath_h49008

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Kalamazoo/Mich
Primer purchased. Rustoleum Professional Rusty Metal Primer. Grabbed a gallon and a quart, as well as a gallon of Acetone for cleaning and thinning.

Picked up a cheap HVLP sprayer at HF with a damaged box for $9.60, air line filters, moon suits for painting, (Forgot to pick up a respirator! Doh!)

The shop where I'm blasting is taking the week of Labor Day off. So I'm pushed back to the 9th for my blasting appointment. Yes, I will take as many pics as I can.

The shop owner has stated flatly the metal will be at it's best to be primed immediately following blasting. So, that's what's going to happen.

I'm learning to hate tire busting. I have a flat I decided I would practice on. Yeesh! I have beat the you-know-what out of that rim and will be back at it as soon as I leave here.

I'm just waiting on the seller(s) to green light me going to pick up my parts for the new windshield, hood, replacement tranny, and other odds and ends.

Back to work...
 

Heath_h49008

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Still waiting on calls to pick up parts...

I have gotten jack squat done on the truck. But, I did rebuild the front end of my GFs mother's car, cleaned my mothers gutters, mowed for my aunts, ran a ton of errands, and have been called into work on my "vacation."


ARRGGHHHHHHHH!

I now have a small mountain of parts waiting for the truck. Most of which I don't want on it when it goes into the sandblast booth.
I also have a tire I cannot seem to break the bead on. It's soaking in penetrating oil right now, and my next plan is to drive over the tire with my deuce to break the bead. I have beat the *&%^$ out of the lock ring and it looks pretty rough.

EGT... waiting on the tap and blasting
Water injection... waiting on the tanks
Bearings and hubs/wheel cylinders inspection... waiting on blasting in case they get sand in there
Paint.... waiting on blasting
Vanner Voltmaster... waiting on blasting
radiator... waiting on blasting
Heater install and insulation... waiting on blasting and paint
Transmission, waiting on seller to call

Tire busting... waiting on steroids or a friendly gorilla to walk by.
 

The King Machine

Active member
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92
28
Location
Vancouver, British Columbia
I worked on a tire for an hour , hammering, prying, bleeding. Then I said screw it and went down to the tire shop, they had the ring off in 5 min and charged me 20$

My time is worth more than $20 so is my blood. Looking forward to your updates
 
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