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98G

Former SSG
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Wow okay, I'll take a two door please. Thank you.
Something like you, except I didn't think all that much of them when I was in. When I was in, the M998 was just coming out and replacing the old jeeps.

6.2 gutless turd and 3spd with no park.

And now that I have mine, it's one of my favorite vehicles. I've driven this one everywhere :AZ, KS, FL, WI, WY, IL, TN, MS, AL, GA, and everywhere in between.

Mostly it goes to the end of the road to fetch fuel for the tractor and take us out to lunch.
 

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11DG

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Dr
Something like you, except I didn't think all that much of them when I was in. When I was in, the M998 was just coming out and replacing the old jeeps.

6.2 gutless turd and 3spd with no park.

And now that I have mine, it's one of my favorite vehicles. I've driven this one everywhere :AZ, KS, FL, WI, WY, IL, TN, MS, AL, GA, and everywhere in between.

Mostly it goes to the end of the road to fetch fuel for the tractor and take us out to lunch.
Yep a truck like that, you have a beautiful truck. That's what I'm looking for. I just dont have the upfront cash to swap to a 12V. Don't get me wrong I like a 6.2 TH400, in a highway geared 2WD Chevy. They struggle in a CUCV and live a short tortured life in a HMMWV. But it is as simple as they come. Just as Uncle Sam intended.
 
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MattNC

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11DG, not sure where you are at in NC, but if near the central part of the state we should roll over to one of the cars and coffee events when you get up and rolling. The one in Morrisville is getting massive and somebody is always showing up with some military vehicles as well. Also, again if you are in central NC, I can mention which DMVs and inspection stations are easier to work with. Some in Raleigh can give more friction than they are legally allowed to do.
 

11DG

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NC
11DG, not sure where you are at in NC, but if near the central part of the state we should roll over to one of the cars and coffee events when you get up and rolling. The one in Morrisville is getting massive and somebody is always showing up with some military vehicles as well. Also, again if you are in central NC, I can mention which DMVs and inspection stations are easier to work with. Some in Raleigh can give more friction than they are legally allowed to do.
I know of a few, but any and all information with regards to tag, title, and registration would be helpful. I live 45m north north east or Raleigh.
 

11DG

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Okay, busy past few weeks. I got a truck from Steve at RWH. He was great to work with, A++ would buy from again. When it's siad that the man is a world authority on HMMWV's, I take that claim at face value and listen.

My truck arrived Wednesday morning.
Here it is.20231206_085746.jpg
2001 M1097A2 with four man soft top wagon kit. It's got 17,xxx miles on it but doest show it at all. I drove it to work that morning and took the guys out to lunch on Friday. I ran it around some today in between working on the drive way. She's a big girl and barely fits in the garage. Only 4.75 inches on either side.
20231209_171700.jpg
And I can even open the hood.
20231209_172040.jpg
Tomorrow it's supposed to storm all day, but that's fine. I'm going to strip the truck down and scrub her clean, she's getting a full detailing, inside, out side, top and bottom.
 

11DG

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Hello again everybody. I'm confused and need help. I have found that the front propeller shaft bearing, has a wore bushing. Figured it would make a fun staycation project, nope. how in world do you get that bearing off the shaft? There's a metal ring that's less then the diameter of the splines. I don't even know how they got it on in the first place. I've checked the TM's and can't find any thing. It's referenced a few times but doesn't appear to say how it comes off. The TM's give the impression that the bearing is replaced along with the shaft.
 

TNDRIVER

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Hello again everybody. I'm confused and need help. I have found that the front propeller shaft bearing, has a wore bushing. Figured it would make a fun staycation project, nope. how in world do you get that bearing off the shaft? There's a metal ring that's less then the diameter of the splines. I don't even know how they got it on in the first place. I've checked the TM's and can't find any thing. It's referenced a few times but doesn't appear to say how it comes off. The TM's give the impression that the bearing is replaced along with the shaft.
Was there play in the bearing itself or the rubber around the outside of the metal bearing? Thats also called a "carrier" bearing in most places. I also have to go and move my chair into the corner and make sure the coffee is warmed up. I have a feeling I'll be spending some time there!
 

11DG

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The bushing is worn. I had just realized the metal ring is the step up to the bearing. The vise, wood block and hammer combo isn't working. So It's going to work with me tomorrow, big red press time.
 

TNDRIVER

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The bushing is worn. I had just realized the metal ring is the step up to the bearing. The vise, wood block and hammer combo isn't working. So It's going to work with me tomorrow, big red press time.
Unless you had a vibration from it , it's probably still good. It's not uncommon for them to have movement from the rubber bushing. You should see what one of these look like in a class 8 truck. Think dinner plate.
 

Coug

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I believe the recommendation I see most often is to replace the entire shaft assembly as it isn't worth fighting the carrier bearing to replace it.
 

11DG

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NC
Okay im back, sorry been busy.

Used the 50 ton press and a special service tool at work and the drive shaft went back in, like a month ago. So far iv done filters and oil, pulled the mats out and deep cleaned the interior. Going to replace all the mats in the front. Still looking for a new front passenger tunnel insulation. Also deleted the STE/ICE and installed some mud flaps. Fabed up a license plate mount that off sets the plate so it sits on the back of the bumper. While utilizing the mud flap hardware to mount it.

My most recent discovery is that wonderfully designed brake switch. I realized I would have to lock up the brakes well before the stop lights illuminated. Played around with a few things, then just bought a new switch. Which I just installed tonight. Also replaced those little #10 press fittings. It's much better, alot tighter and gained some adjustment back, but still just out of spec. Had the use a rotary bur bit to elongate the adjustment slots approximately 1/8". Only after that I could move it's adjustment far enough out to be in spec. I'll see how it goes but I'm probably just going to convert to a conventional switch. Tomorrow my battery mounts and hardware will be here, I'll install that and button her up tomorrow night. Then Saturday I can finally drive my truck again. I think I'll take the trash to the dump then cruise into town and get me a freezy.
 

Coug

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if there isn't enough adjustment on the switch, you can always just bend the bar that goes to it from the pedal. That's what I did along side the road after being told my brake lights weren't coming on, and some pliers made it a quick repair.
 

11DG

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NC
I could have bent it but couldn't be bothered. Call me strange.

But it doesn't matter, I pulled the truck out of the garage. Noticed smock coming from under the hood. My regulator was on fire. Now the truck is sitting in the yard and I don't know how I'm going to get it back in with out driving it. It just happened and iv got to take a load to the dump so I'll be back in a bit. I'm sure I could just disconnect power but don't know which cable that is yet. Super bummed out, I haven't driven my truck in over a month and now this. Up dates later I assume.20240120_085829.jpg
 

Mogman

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I could have bent it but couldn't be bothered. Call me strange.

But it doesn't matter, I pulled the truck out of the garage. Noticed smock coming from under the hood. My regulator was on fire. Now the truck is sitting in the yard and I don't know how I'm going to get it back in with out driving it. It just happened and iv got to take a load to the dump so I'll be back in a bit. I'm sure I could just disconnect power but don't know which cable that is yet. Super bummed out, I haven't driven my truck in over a month and now this. Up dates later I assume.View attachment 915078
Disconnect the ign. (sense) lead (wire tag 5A) unless you have the batteries disconnected the others should not be a problem.
Most likely all the smoke is already let out and the event is over.
Make sure the IGN (sense) lead you remove does not short against anything, tape it up for now.
 

11DG

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NC
Cool, still got things to do today. Just planned on driving the hmmwv today but I'm back in my ford.

Iv disconnected the batteries already. I haven't messed with it yet, but this ignition sensor 5A, I assume isolates the regulator out of the circuit and allow me to drive the truck the 45 feet I need to get it back in the garage?

I'm off again, gotta run into town. At the very least the truck looks great sitting in the yard.

Thanks for the help by the way.
 

Coug

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truck will start and run no problem without the regulator hooked up, just using battery power. I wouldn't hesitate to drive for a lot further than 45 feet without it, as the engine itself doesn't require much power to operate
 
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