Hello....

[rjp1566]

Hello to everyone on this very informative site. I recently fell in love with the m1009 vehicles, and I am hopefully going to be purchasing one very soon. Can anyone give me some insight into what I should be looking for in/ on these vehicles that will tell me to jump on it or run like ****! What is a reasonable price to pay for one that is in running condition? Any advice you may be able to offer would be greatly appreciated.

 

[jeffhuey1n]

I recently bought my 1009. First thing I looked for is rust. is it repairable or not. Next, start it up. Does it sound like a drier full of old lawnmower parts? Thats what its supposed to sound like. Does it have all its parts, lights, jack / handle / crank, etc. Tire condition is optional, you'll probably have to replace them anyway. glass in good shape? does the back window work / door open? Does it have a clear title?

I paid 15 for one with a few cosmetic problems but other wise in good shape for a 24 year old truck.

I see them go for 3500 in really good shape but whats the fun in that? If it's all there, you won't learn your truck inside and out.

Good luck.

 

[344lbsofgetdown]

i paid 4 for mine and have no reqrets it looks great and runs like a 6.2 M1009 CUCV should i liked Ebay due to i could talk to some one and get a lot more info on the truck insted of what they put on GL but that is just my

 

[91W350]

I paid over 4000 for one of mine and ^^^^he is looking pretty smart!^^^^

That being said, it runs great and has been very reliable. A fuel pump and a fuel filter base, some rubber lines, maybe 120 bucks. Glen

 

[sirmrtow]

Welcome to the site
and yes im hoping to get mine soon

 

[rnd-motorsports]

WELCOME!! look at the same as you would anyother truck you plan to buy then remember ther is a few difs! only you know what you can tackle and fix /or have fixed. Ask questions here if you have any! and go from there

 

[Barrman]

Prices are hard to say because each of us is willing to spend a different amount for something.

Based on my experiences and those of others here that have been written about. Expect to do the following:

Rebuild or replace at least one alternator

Glow plugs will need replaced

Maybe glow plug wiring

Starter relay will fail, so do the "doghead relay" swap as soon as you get the truck

Starter motor will probably need a rebuild even if it works good now

Brakes, bearings, oil, filters, coolant, hoses and belts are givens that still should get mentioned just because you are trying to add up cost. The good thing is that everything mentioned above is listed out in the manuals, rebuild kits are pretty darn cheap and parts are mostly available at your local auto parts store.

 

[Boreal21]

Next, start it up. Does it sound like a drier full of old lawnmower parts? Thats what its supposed to sound like.

So true

 

[rjp1566]

Thanks everyone. I had my preview today on a bunch that are going to be available soon on a base near my home. I looked for ones mainly in decent body condition on the exterior because I'm definitely not body worker. The interior I'm not to worried about because I planned on gutting it and putting hurculiner on the interior. I found seat rebuild kits on LMC Truck so that will probably get done too. I have a good network of diesel mechanics and welders for friends so mechanical repair and fabrication should be covered. With all the "know how" I'm getting from this site I think ill be good to go. I've already read about the starter issues and charging system problems on here so ill probably do a preemptive strike on all that stuff!
One thing I'm not clear on, even after reading the "doghead relay" thread, is.... what does the "doghead relay" accomplish? Sorry if this is a dumb rookie question.

 

[Barrman]

The truck is a 12V Chevy except for the starting system, glow plug power supply and slave system (jump start). The 12V part of the truck has to tell the 24V starting system to start when you turn the key. There is a relay under the dash that closes on the 24V side when the 12V from the ignition switch hits it.

The original GM relay is actually a left over heater relay from that time period. The originals tended to fuse together causing the starter to not turn off after the engine started and the key was moved. This burned up starters, batteries and just about every wire in the truck. A maintenance change was made in 1988 or 1989. The replacement relay was better, but not much. The same thing still happens. A "doghead" relay is a high amp lawnmower starter relay that fits under the dash real well, is cheap ($12.95 on ebay right now) and has more than twice the amperage rating needed.

Doing the relay swap is a pre emptive change that will probably save your wiring and starter. Probably the best thing you can do is look at the CUCV FAQ sticky, find the links to the manuals, download them and print them. Then read them cover to cover. Especially the -20. There is a huge 80 some odd page troubleshooting section in the -20. Learn it and keep it handy.