Help, along the road, locked brakes

[Tlauden]

As the tittle states... I was going down the road and I pulled into a side road cause I thought I smelled something funny...

Well what do ya know the brakes were locked and smoking, there was a loose air line into the master cylinder I think?? Behind the drivers side toolbox, with a skid plate on the bottom, well I tightened the air line and still the brakes are locked...

What's next? Sry I did not search cause I'm on my phone and it don't do well with the search function, any ideas to get her home?? I only live bout two miles away, and I don't know what to do?? I tried moving and even in low gear it almost stalls cause they are locked so tight, and the pedal is firm to the point it won't budge an inch.

 

[whyme]

sounds like your air pack is fubar. open the drivers side glad hand and see if your breaks free up

 

[neilhendrix]

You could back off the shoes a little or just let them cool. Only two miles Is the truck new to you? Just get it home and do more checking.

 

[whyme]

could also be that the fluid isnt returning back for some reason, crimped line, faulty master cylinder, ect.

how does the petal feel?

 

[doghead]

Leave the glad hand valve cracked open a little bit(with the cover off). You can get home like that. Sounds like you need to rebuild your air pack.

 

[Tlauden]

Ok with drivers glad hand cracked there is a constant flow of air out of it... The brake pedal is sorta workable but all in all moves about 3/4 of an inch total...

 

[rlwm211]

The air pack has a compensator piston that controls the amount of air pressure that is applied when you press the brake pedal. If the piston sticks in the bore it can cause creeping air flow to the piston and a constant pressure on the brakes.

Another possibility but not likely in this situation is the lack of a return path for the fluid to the resevoir in the master. This can be caused by improper adjustment of the piston rod connecting the brake pedal to the master or the pin hole that bleeds the fluid back to the master is plugged. (Ask me how I know this)

If you have gotten home you have solved your immediate problem but now are faced with diagnosing and fixing your brakes. Report back and best of luck.


TMs are gold in this process....

RL

 

[stancanpara]

I had the EXACT problem a couple years ago.. Bleed the brakes (any one should do) to let off the pressure and you should be able to make it home.

 

[stancanpara]

It took me until last weekend to finally diagnose the bottom line problem... Brakes would build up fluid pressure and my brake lights would stay on all the time.... Turned out both Airpacks I tried were filled with crud.

It would work fine at times (weeks/months) and other times it would build up within a couple miles of driving.... Replaced wheel cylinders, brake lines, master cylinder and (Air Pak with a different used one) and it came down to the airpack. Replaced Airpack with a GOOD one and my brakes are now working perfectly!

 

[Tlauden]

Ok guys, no luck with glad hand trick...

Warning: you mite not like what I did

1st gear with strobe light and flashers on got it about 1/4 mile to a buddy of mines house where it is sitting, never got the brakes realesed so it prob wasnt good for them but it was 1 low and it NEEDED off the road, and he brought me home.

I'll go over tomorrow and try the bleeding trick, but he's fine with it sitting in his yard till it's fixed...

If all else fails I'll pull the air packs, I traced all the lines and nothing was crimped/pinched

Are these serviceable as in pull it apart and clean and put together or do I need the rebuild kit??

Thanks guys I can't begin to say enough about the folks here on this site and those who helped with the speedy answers!!

Thanks
Tyler

 

[rlwm211]

I would suggest cracking the brake line that is the output of the master first and if the brales release it is the master. If you do that and nothing happens, then it is probably in the airpack. You can rebuild the old style airpacks. I am unaware of airpack rebuild kits for the new style and also for the M35A3 type. I replaced my master due to a similiar problem and I also rebuilt my airpack later on as a part of replacing the wheel cylinders so I would have all new parts in my brake system. No problems since.

The 34 series of TMs are gold for this and there is a manual at Jatonka's site that goes into great detail in explaining how the brake system works in the air hydraulic system and it has great illustrations as well. Look for the one labelled Lockheed Wagner brake service manual.
The site is www.jatonkam35s.com and I know there are several new TMs in the deuce section that were added recently.

Post your progress and I know you will get a ton of support.

RL

 

[Tlauden]

I will deff look at the TM's for the brake system... I have no clue what everything is

 

[dmetalmiki]

rlwm has it

Crack any fluid line, that will release the pressure and get you home "SLOWLY" low gear make sure the h/brake is ok tho' . very likely pumping the peddle will give you brakes (again) may even work ok! but DO NOT be tempted to think OH..all's ok now i'l carry on (using it) Service your m/cyl and airpack. (dont 4 get to lube the aipack lube point.) good luck let us know what and how the fault found/cure. p.s. check brake peddle adjustment / hieght. free play.

 

[rlwm211]

When my brakes locked on, I had to crack the pressure line at the airpack to release the brakes and I drove 7 miles home on back roads very carefully and once home proceeded to deal with the problems. It is a good feeling when you figure out what is wrong and fix it yourself.

RL

 

[Tlauden]

Thanks everyone, I thought I was going nuts when this happened, you read so much on here about how the system fails and leaves people without brakes, and here I am with the exact opposite problem... I probably would have tried to get it home, but alongside the road with a leatherman and 1 adjustable wrench, theres only so much someone can do....

I can't thank you folks enough

 

[DieselBob]

I probably would have tried to get it home, but alongside the road with a leatherman and 1 adjustable wrench, theres only so much someone can do....

Time to put a tool kit together and carry with you. These trucks are old and there is always something that needs adjusted or tightened. Just goes with the territory.

 

[stancanpara]

Time to put a tool kit together and carry with you. These trucks are old and there is always something that needs adjusted or tightened. Just goes with the territory.

Tool kit is a MUST! Wrenches and sockets, extra wire, hose clamps, zip strips, duck tape, multi meter, electrical tape, length of fuel line, bulbs, etc

There is even a nice little tool box area under your cab to put it all in so it's not rolling around on your floor...
I'm not sure about your's, but my main truck was built in 1970 (over 40 years old) and there isn't a thing that is brand new on it...

But every mile is still a smile in Daddy's Tonka !

 

[jsthnt@gmail.com]

Mine did the same thing last weekend. I managed to get the brake to back off after dumping all the air out of the system.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Taking lug nuts off with a Leatherman is a real challenge!

 

[Seth_O]

FYI, I disassembled and cleaned my airpack (old, long style) a few weeks ago and it was a relatively simple affair. I used the TM and followed the steps, but it was neither complicated nor difficult. I ran into 1 or 2 hiccups (which you should expect given how hold these are) but got it all back together and it works like a champ.

I did not elect to use a rebuild kit as all my parts were serviceable, but a rebuild kit can be had for ~$100 I believe from many of the usual suspects.