Help Identify 6.5 with NO casting numbers

[Dmartin]

I purchased a M1123 that was listed as a GEP 6.5 Optimizer. When I picked up the Humvee and inspected it there is no casting model number or date code on the back of the block. There is also no Diamond in the Valley or the raised 506 in dots. The only thing on it is a DOD/ GM data label and a Melton 6.5 sticker on the valve cover. Can anyone help identify if this is a GEP engine or GM or if it could be a Chinese copy. It was Item 665783 in Gov planet.
http://www.govplanet.com/jsp/s/item/665783?h=null&do=1
Attached are some pictures of the rear of the engine.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Chinese or some other Mfg, but GEP and GM had casting date codes....you are looking on the right rear below the head right?

 

[Dmartin]

Yes, I looked at the rear near the transition were I have seen them in other post. Here are some pictures,
Gov Planet listed this as a GEP Optimizer engine, but it is clearly not and that to me seems like it would be worth a lot less, is this something I should claim under there Iron Clad Assurance?

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Yes, I looked at the rear near the transition were I have seen them in other post. Here are some pictures,
Gov Planet listed this as a GEP Optimizer engine, but it is clearly not and that to me seems like it would be worth a lot less, is this something I should claim under there Iron Clad Assurance?

View attachment 672227View attachment 672226View attachment 672228

No idea, the rebuild date of the motor on the tag says N/A, who knows....I wouldn't sweat it, but it ain't a GEP block, so it's anything else. I would bring it to GP's attention on your IC warranty.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Also, this is been talked about before...other buyers have posted the same on the M1123 purchases.

 

[Lionel]

Definitely not GEP or GM

 

[Dmartin]

I reported it to GP and they said they checked with their team and that listing definitely had a GEP engine. I told them it definitely does not and sent them the pictures and asked what information or prof they have it is a GEP engine. I have not heard back yet.

I will try to find the other reports of M1123 blocks not having casting marks. I did not find those threads in my previous searches. Many of M1123 on GP only list 6.5 Diesel but I chose this one in no small part because it specifically said in the listing 6.5 GEP Optimizer engine. Unfortunately the pictures they took were not of sufficient quality to tell beforehand so I trusted the listing.

 

[TOBASH]

I reported it to GP and they said they checked with their team and that listing definitely had a GEP engine. I told them it definitely does not and sent them the pictures and asked what information or prof they have it is a GEP engine. I have not heard back yet.

I will try to find the other reports of M1123 blocks not having casting marks. I did not find those threads in my previous searches. Many of M1123 on GP only list 6.5 Diesel but I chose this one in no small part because it specifically said in the listing 6.5 GEP Optimizer engine. Unfortunately the pictures they took were not of sufficient quality to tell beforehand so I trusted the listing.

Fraud over 5K is a felony.

A gentle reminder on legal paper will get attention

 

[infidel got me]

Does it have a gep sticker on drivers side valve cover??

 

[OPFORMI]

If it has the Melton sticker it is a Melton Rebuild, not a GEP. But as Warhorse said, if it runs I wouldn't sweat it. Plus the Melton's are better than the GEPs in my opinion, and with only 43 miles (yes I know never trust a MV odo) I would sit around fat and happy and have fun with it. The difference in the prices between HV w. GEPs, Meltons, Navstar, etc is neglible. So really boils down to how much time and effort do you want to waste to get a couple of hundred bucks back... As always my opinion only... Good looking project truck though!

 

[jeffy777]

I looked at your unit on the GP site, when you run is your oil pressure sensor running between 0-30 at idle? That seems really low to me, at idle I researched it and I thought it should be above 30. If it is above 30 and it runs fine I would post a complaint with GP and if anything happens I would start some action. If it is below 30 psi I would be concerned. Is the gauge off or is their a bigger issue and then in which case I would start some action with GP ASAP. You may need to start out a little hard so as to get their attention. IMHO.

 

[Lionel]

I don't know I'd go hard at first. I've had two issues with GP and they have been professional and courteous in their dealings with me. And I am by no means a high volume customer. You can always get aggressive if they aren't responsive. MHO

 

[Dmartin]

It does have the Melton sticker on the valve cover. I called Melton to ask about the engine block and they told me they don't look at who made the blocks. They are given engines by the military to rebuild and they rebuild them. It starts and runs great. I don't see any vapors coming out the coolant system but the oils pressure at idle, when warm, is about 10 psi. I will have to check again when it's cold what it is. I am mostly worried about the block cracking like is prone to some GM blocks and having to spend $5-7k on a new engine or if I sell it the decrease in value for having an unknown engine block.

 

[OPFORMI]

According to the TM 9-2320-280-10 Table 1-5 Engine Data for 6.5L Engine the oil pressure at idle should be 10psi (69 KPa)....sounds like you got a good machine. There is no real difference when it comes to resale value because of who cast the engine block. If you are pounding the crap out of the machine everyday or like we did down range, I may worry about the block cracking, but even when we were doing that a "cracked" block was few and far between. From what I hear it is not nearly as common as some people would like to make it out to be, I am sure Warhorse can add his observation since he is our resident expert, but with 20+ years in the Active Army beating these up, I would take a nice running one with no leaks or blowby and (hopefully) low miles regardless of who cast the block. Also every engine that gets installed or swapped out is technically a "GM" motor regardless of GEP, Melton, Navstar...GM still holds the "contract" for the engines and subcontracts out the manufacturing...As always just my $0.02...

 

[Lionel]

Head over to Southern Metals and pick out a whole new 6.5 4speed drivetrain for $2500 in case it does blow.

 

[Lionel]

Picked up two 2010 GEP's the last time I was there.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

According to the TM 9-2320-280-10 Table 1-5 Engine Data for 6.5L Engine the oil pressure at idle should be 10psi (69 KPa)....sounds like you got a good machine. There is no real difference when it comes to resale value because of who cast the engine block. If you are pounding the crap out of the machine everyday or like we did down range, I may worry about the block cracking, but even when we were doing that a "cracked" block was few and far between. From what I hear it is not nearly as common as some people would like to make it out to be, I am sure Warhorse can add his observation since he is our resident expert, but with 20+ years in the Active Army beating these up, I would take a nice running one with no leaks or blowby and (hopefully) low miles regardless of who cast the block. Also every engine that gets installed or swapped out is technically a "GM" motor regardless of GEP, Melton, Navstar...GM still holds the "contract" for the engines and subcontracts out the manufacturing...As always just my $0.02...

thank god someone read the TM...30psi at idle or running is just fine. Also...don't TRUST THE GAUGES.