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help with basic problems

crazywelder72

New member
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Winchester Ma
if its not attached to the pump, where is it?

since were talking about fuel, the fuel that was in it was about as bad as you could imagine. we drained it and changed all the filters but i was wondering about putting gas in the tank to try to thin out any remaining sludge that may be in the lines.
 

crazywelder72

New member
701
2
0
Location
Winchester Ma
got the brake lights to work and got her running today.

it will only start with a 5 second shot of starting fluid into the air intake. it idles great at 8-900 rpm and runs fine. even after its warm and running i need to hit it with the starting fluid. wtf??aua it has the winter heater switch and i even tried using that but no luck. i dont even know to much about the manifold heater and how it works.
 

Heavysteven

New member
2,090
10
0
Location
Hickory Flat Ga
There are some more video's on YouTube going over the truck.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k5UUpqagrf0&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/media]

I don't think you should be using starting fluid. Sounds like you have a combination of fuel issues, poor fuel quality, clogged filters, and air entering the lines.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
got the brake lights to work and got her running today.

it will only start with a 5 second shot of starting fluid into the air intake. it idles great at 8-900 rpm and runs fine. even after its warm and running i need to hit it with the starting fluid. wtf??aua it has the winter heater switch and i even tried using that but no luck. i dont even know to much about the manifold heater and how it works.

Sorry I haven't replied much, been prety busy. I hate to say it but that sounds like a hydraulic head issue.
 

crazywelder72

New member
701
2
0
Location
Winchester Ma
I havent forgot about the earlier questions about my Hydrolic steering set up. I took some pics today and added them to the album I posted on this thread earlier. Here are a few pics.







Hope it helps.
 

sewerzuk

Member
524
10
18
Location
Seaside, OR
I havent forgot about the earlier questions about my Hydrolic steering set up. I took some pics today and added them to the album I posted on this thread earlier. Here are a few pics.

Hope it helps.
I'm all for hydraulic steering...have been running it on my own deuce for a while now. But, I would SERIOUSLY consider re-working those hydraulic rams on your truck. The tabs look like they are of insufficient size, thickness, and are not properly welded. The forces present on those tabs are quite high, and I can't believe they will last very long. Steering is no place to cut corners...
 

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sewerzuk

Member
524
10
18
Location
Seaside, OR
got the brake lights to work and got her running today.

it will only start with a 5 second shot of starting fluid into the air intake. it idles great at 8-900 rpm and runs fine. even after its warm and running i need to hit it with the starting fluid. wtf??aua it has the winter heater switch and i even tried using that but no luck. i dont even know to much about the manifold heater and how it works.
I've only wrenched on a few A2's, but every one has started easily even in cold weather. I have started mine when it was about 10 degrees below freezing, with no starting fluid or flame heater. I'm with gimpyrobb on this one; sounds like an IP issue.
Here's a video of a cold start on my deuce:
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdLtSmWYeOw[/media]
 

dozer1

Member
833
13
18
Location
Sargeant, Minnesota
I agree that the steering ram isn't attached well. Looks like someone squeezed a bird where great welds belong. Material probably lighter then I would have went as well. You are a welder, judging by your user name. You will be able to straighten that out.
 

crazywelder72

New member
701
2
0
Location
Winchester Ma
I'm all for hydraulic steering...have been running it on my own deuce for a while now. But, I would SERIOUSLY consider re-working those hydraulic rams on your truck. The tabs look like they are of insufficient size, thickness, and are not properly welded. The forces present on those tabs are quite high, and I can't believe they will last very long. Steering is no place to cut corners...
I would like to see some pics of yours for comparison. I TOTALLY agree about the welding. It looks like snot. I have been a welder for almost 20 years an I want to definitely clean it up. I would be embarrassed if those were my welds (although sometimes things get done and are strong but not pretty.)
 

crazywelder72

New member
701
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0
Location
Winchester Ma
i looked briefly at your pics and the video for a quick sec (kids driving me crazy today). I see your piston is a single with a double ended ram. i can tell there are some clamps on the ends of the piston but i am curious how yours is attached to the truck. i also like the small tie-rod ends to adjust alignment that you made.---- next question, the power of your hydraulic steering is the way it should be. able to turn with one finger. Mine is far from that, it is a bear to turn. and when your rolling it is constantly fighting you back-n-fourth with a type of slack or backlash in the system. it kicks the crap out of your forearms just going across parking lot. it should be a easy as pie to steer. do you think this is because 2 piston arrangement? i am going to go thru your thread from beginning to end ( but it's long)
 

sewerzuk

Member
524
10
18
Location
Seaside, OR
i looked briefly at your pics and the video for a quick sec (kids driving me crazy today). I see your piston is a single with a double ended ram. i can tell there are some clamps on the ends of the piston but i am curious how yours is attached to the truck. i also like the small tie-rod ends to adjust alignment that you made.---- next question, the power of your hydraulic steering is the way it should be. able to turn with one finger. Mine is far from that, it is a bear to turn. and when your rolling it is constantly fighting you back-n-fourth with a type of slack or backlash in the system. it kicks the crap out of your forearms just going across parking lot. it should be a easy as pie to steer. do you think this is because 2 piston arrangement? i am going to go thru your thread from beginning to end ( but it's long)
My ram is held into place with the 2 clamps; even if they somehow loosen up the welded ports on the ram would prevent any movement. The bolts from those clamps go into a thick piece of flat bar that is welded to the differential housing on one side, and the piece of 1.75"x1/4" DOM tubing that runs from knuckle to knuckle. Steering effort is one finger, even in the rocks, deep mud, etc.
The factory tie rod is completely replaced with the double ended ram and new tie rods. I have about 5000-6000 road miles and several full days off road in the sand, mud, and rocks with this setup over a little longer than a year with zero problems.


A few problems I notice with your setup (I know you didn't build it, so don't take it as criticism...but these are things I would certainly correct before taking it down the highway):

1. The rams are way too small. I doubt they could generate enough power to move those big 53's, even if they had additional leverage, pressure, etc. Can't quite tell just from the pics, but they look like maybe 2" rams. I would say that 3" is the minimum ram size for this big of a vehicle, IF its connection points are in the factory locations.

2. The rams are mounted on the mechanical stops on the knuckles. This reduces their leverage over the knuckles significantly, and placed additional stress on all of the components in the steering system...they should be at least out as far as the factory tie rod is.

3. The twin single rams work fine for creating a "balanced" turn ratio off road...but it is something I would stay away from (if possible) on a street driven truck. Too many additional failure points.

4. Bird-poopy weld boogered on tabs (already discussed)


As far as the "kick" you are experiencing, a few things come to mind:

1. It is possible there is air in the crossover line between the 2 rams

2. Since the rams don't look to have good geometry (as discussed above), this could contribute to the problem you are having

3. Poor alignment (toe in or toe out). Should be roughly 0.2 degrees toe in, I believe. That is what I have mine set to.

4. Your steering valve may be a non-load reaction valve. This wouldn't CAUSE the problem, but it could contribute to it.
 

crazywelder72

New member
701
2
0
Location
Winchester Ma
Thank you for taking the time to give me an education and point me in the right direction. when i was reading your discription of how your piston was mounted i couldnt visualize where the flat plate was it for a few minutes, then it clicked. well done and nicely reinforced i might add. i will grab so more pics tomorrow of the steering valve and pump. I dont know what a non-load reaction valve is but i can bet you in the next 24 hours i'll become a expert in them lol.

It will be a small undertaking to clean up this mess but shouldn't be too bad to make the changes.

I noticed also that your front shocks are still installed. do they actually help or do anything considering the size of our leaf springs?

Seriously, thank you again for the constructive criticism. i accept it all with open arms.
 

crazywelder72

New member
701
2
0
Location
Winchester Ma
1. The rams are way too small. I doubt they could generate enough power to move those big 53's, even if they had additional leverage, pressure, etc. Can't quite tell just from the pics, but they look like maybe 2" rams. I would say that 3" is the minimum ram size for this big of a vehicle, IF its connection points are in the factory locations.

2. The rams are mounted on the mechanical stops on the knuckles. This reduces their leverage over the knuckles significantly, and placed additional stress on all of the components in the steering system...they should be at least out as far as the factory tie rod is.

3. The twin single rams work fine for creating a "balanced" turn ratio off road...but it is something I would stay away from (if possible) on a street driven truck. Too many additional failure points.

2. Since the rams don't look to have good geometry (as discussed above), this could contribute to the problem you are having

Now that I have a better idea of what to look for with this steering setup, I was able to take a peek at it and think a little bit. I measured the rams and they are 2.5" diameter. All i kept thinking was how to do the easiest fix. obviously the easiest would be to copy your setup as it seem bulletproof. I cant afford jumping into a new piston like yours and scrapping mine. I may (for now) just try to extend the rams mount closer to the tie-rod end (or perhaps beyond). Not sure just yet.

i took a few more pics. not the best but they show some stuff.
 

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plym49

Well-known member
1,164
171
63
Location
TX USA
I might be mistaken, but from the earlier set of photos you posted it seems as if the rams are not mounted on the same plane. I am talking about the inner ends by the pumpkin. It looked like one was mounted fairly flat, and the other was kicked up at an angle. If they are indeed mounted at different angles, that would not seem good for the steering geometry.

Different question - if you mount the ends of the rams further out by the tie rod ends, will the rams have enough travel?
 
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