Hercules LDT-465 - significant amount of diesel in oil even after FDC bypass

[Kalmek]

I found some 4 pdf parts manual on synchronization here (with low quality ilustration photos), which I can't find now on mobile. But we gonna look into it next week, with more hands/heads available and try to put it together.

 

[Floridianson]

You can remove the IP any time you want without lining up any timing marks. On install before we install IP or the IP drive gear we can set the IP head timing and harmonic balancer. I just find it faster to set the harmonic balancer on #1 TDC before removal of the IP. Then we set the IP timing advance window timing mark using the center bolt on the IP shaft and turn it till the Head red / scrib mark and Head pointer are lined up. You can do this before IP install or after but I find it faster to do it before IP install. Now after we have the harmonic balancer on mark and the IP Head scrib mark on pointer we install the drive gear like in the picture on page 47 figure 61 of the trouble shooting manual I posted. Mark sure the drive gear has the spaces cut out of the drive gear like in the picture or slots to the right. Then put on the plate if it has one and the three bolts that hold on drive gear and leave bolts just loose enough so we can still move the IP shaft. Then the fun part and figure 62 on page 49 of the trouble shooting manual has us setting up the Head red / scrib by turning the center bolt and turning it clockwise till the advance window timing mark line up with it's pointer the Head red / scrib mark should be just about one tooth off to the rear. Now like in the figure 62 we hold the center bolt in place and not moving the IP shaft we tighten down the drive gear three bolts. Now with harmonic balancer on it correct mark advance window mark on its pointer the correct motor timing will be the Head red /scrib will be just about one tooth off to the rear of the pointer and we have correct engine to IP timing.

 

[Floridianson]

In this case if the truck was running good and you have not removed the IP yet maybe just do the booster pump alone. It's work but not to hard move motor over. Also as said look at the oil feed to IP rubber line while your there.

 

[Kalmek]

Thanks for comprehensive answer. I'll let you know how it went.

 

[williamh]

You can remove the IP any time you want without lining up any timing marks. On install before we install IP or the IP drive gear we can set the IP head timing and harmonic balancer. I just find it faster to set the harmonic balancer on #1 TDC before removal of the IP. Then we set the IP timing using the center bolt on the IP shaft and turn it till the Head red / scrib mark and Head pointer are lined up. You can do this before IP install or after but I find it faster to do it before IP install. Now after we have the harmonic balancer on mark and the IP Head scrib mark on pointer we install the drive gear like in the picture on page 47 figure 61 of the trouble shooting manual I posted. Mark sure the drive gear has the spaces cut out of the drive gear like in the picture or slots to the right. Then put on the plate if it has one and the three bolts that hold on drive gear and leave bolts just loose enough so we can still move the IP shaft. Then the fun part and figure 62 on page 49 of the trouble shooting manual has us setting up the Head red / scrib by turning the center bolt and turning it clockwise till the advance window timing mark line up with it's pointer the Head red / scrib mark should be just about one tooth off to the rear. Now like in the figure 62 we hold the center bolt in place and not moving the IP shaft we tighten down the drive gear three bolts. Now with harmonic balancer on it correct mark advance window mark on its pointer the correct motor timing will be the Head red /scrib will be just about one tooth off to the rear of the pointer and we have correct engine to IP timing.

No you Can’t just remove the injection pump head , there is a notch on the pump gear , if you force off the head you will break off a section of the timing gear , the same reason you can’t just install the ip head without making sure the timing is correct for the head to the pump. However you can screw the pooch by installing the whole injection pump incorrectly , not to start a flame war but I’ve replace the ip head. I’ve forced the head off and broken that part , don’t just start telling people to do crap. It will cost them real money and dump metal they don’t need in the motor. If you need pics. I’ve got them.

 

[Kalmek]

Pics would be great, because those in manuals aren't great. I will also look on some yt videos before going into it.

 

[Floridianson]

No you Can’t just remove the injection pump head , there is a notch on the pump gear , if you force off the head you will break off a section of the timing gear , the same reason you can’t just install the ip head without making sure the timing is correct for the head to the pump. However you can screw the pooch by installing the whole injection pump incorrectly , not to start a flame war but I’ve replace the ip head. I’ve forced the head off and broken that part , don’t just start telling people to do crap. It will cost them real money and dump metal they don’t need in the motor. If you need pics. I’ve got them.

He is replacing the whole IP is what I was reading not the Head and that is the way we do it. Booster will put a lot more fuel in the crankcase than the flame heater because the flame heater puts it right into the intake. Booster at 60 psi leaking seal dumps it into IP and right into the crankcase.

 

[Floridianson]

No you Can’t just remove the injection pump head , there is a notch on the pump gear , if you force off the head you will break off a section of the timing gear , the same reason you can’t just install the ip head without making sure the timing is correct for the head to the pump. However you can screw the pooch by installing the whole injection pump incorrectly , not to start a flame war but I’ve replace the ip head. I’ve forced the head off and broken that part , don’t just start telling people to do crap. It will cost them real money and dump metal they don’t need in the motor. If you need pics. I’ve got them.

Just wondering how you bent the Head quill shaft cutout washer. With the TM and trouble shooting manual all the threads on removal plus the sticky it's hard not to get it right. Now there is the extra oil filter or oil feed head on the G pump that needs to be removed before removal of the head. Also the thread I posted where the Head was installed one tooth off from correct and even by putting the red / scrib on gear on pointer the Head will not come out and when you try and pry it out you will damage the cutout washer on the quill shaft because the cutout washer is not lined up. So the head pointer might look or be in correct position but the cutout is not. This is why we double check the HB is on mark and four bolt advance window is on mark and head scribe being just about one tooth off before we try and start the engine after rr the Head. Easer to correct before running the engine. All the Heads I have done with IP installed never did I have to pry the Head off as they came out very easy.