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I have the TM TM 9-2910-226-34 up in front of me if you could guide me to the diagram.
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Hey Need help with a IP head part
- Thread starter highfavor1004
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the booster pump is item AA in the pic
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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This is where I was saying the small O-ring goes. Between this and the body of the IP.
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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It didn't attach, hmmm.
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what are you trying to show me with the picture. Also AA being the "Fuel Supply Pump Assembly" as circled in yellow on picture 3
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pic 3
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the fuel supply pump also called booster pump. remove shaft and replace seal, about $6.
to check it just pull it out and let it hang on the lines while running tank pump.
tom
to check it just pull it out and let it hang on the lines while running tank pump.
tom
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Yup, the small O-ring goes where the red arrow is pointing. It goes in between the part I am holding and the IP body.
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okay thank you
vtdeucedriver
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Got more O-rings for the HH???? Myself, black ops and Evil Dr. Porkchop are trying to get my M-54 to run and today I was dealing with the same issue with a stuck fuel shutoff lever. even with it forward, I am still not getting any fuel to the injectors.
At the reverification suggestion by JA TONKA via cellphone, I pulled the 3/4"plug at the top of the head and I still have movement at the piston. I still am getting fuel to the HH via the fuel density compensator line.
Right now I have no fuel dumping into the crankcase
Just wondering before I pull the head, I would like to drain my old fuel and change my filters and within the same time, fill all 3 cannisters with Power Svc as this truck has been sitting for 10 yrs.
vtdeucedriver
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If it wont run, just tow it!!opcorn:
opcorn:Attachments
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the fuel lever and rod must move very freely. do not try to start it if they do not, bad things may happen. you do need some small pressure at cranking speed to get fuel into the plunger, so the tank pump or the booster pump must be working
vtdeucedriver
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Tank pump is working fine as so is the plunger. What kind of bad things??? I removed the 2 wired 8-32 slot screws that hold it in and when that is done, the rod moves very free to the compensator. I even removed the compensator to verify that we were ok there.
I still have some binding between the plate and the arm and that is whats keeping it from moving freely. Its much better than what it was but I pushed it forward and I still do not have any fuel to the inj lines. The plunger on the other hand is getting fuel and working just fine.
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Well, while taking the head off the top tab plate for the timing broke loses so now I dont know where the timing is at; however on the bright side the bottom smaller o-ring was not on the head. So i think i know what the cause of the fuel in the crank case was. Is this right?
If I am wrong please correct me. To fix timing issue, my plan of action is to remove injector number one and spend the motor over to top dead center in cylinder 1 (exhaust stroke). By doing this i hope to accomplish that it brings the main IP in time, which will cause the gears to be in the right position to drop the head back in with the red tooth in line with the hash mark.
If I am wrong please correct me. To fix timing issue, my plan of action is to remove injector number one and spend the motor over to top dead center in cylinder 1 (exhaust stroke). By doing this i hope to accomplish that it brings the main IP in time, which will cause the gears to be in the right position to drop the head back in with the red tooth in line with the hash mark.
vtdeucedriver
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Thats what I would do.
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Being that I did not have any o-ring on the bottom of the IP that would cause massive amount of fuel to dump into the crank case right
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??
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if you line the red tooth up with the pointer, it will not run. that IS NOT a timing mark. i am sorry to say, many people who attempt to repair the IP just don't know what they are doing and don't read the manual first. it will take someone who really understands the system to properly time the engine at this point.
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exhaust stroke?? no, that is wrong. really, find someone local who can help you before it gets worse.
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I do understand however at this point I cant pay any one to come help me because I have no money and non of the guys locally have ever messed with IP unit before. So i am up **** creek with out a paddle. I was always told that it had to be top dead center exhaust stroke if that is wrong will you please correct me. I am by my self on this project and been way deep over my head since the beginning. I have read the TM however in this situation it would just tell me to you replace the hole IP.