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HMMWV 4L80E Reman Transmission

Bulldogger

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Has anyone on the forum used an ATK Remanufactured 4L80E in their HMMWV? I had a cooling loop clog and my trans bit the dust a while back. I've been randomly finding time to search for a repair/replacement and this appears the best for the money, especially considering a local rebuilder wants $6500 to rebuild what's in it already, not including removal and replacement costs. https://www.jegs.com/p/ATK-Engines/...97&make=AM+GENERAL&model=HUMMER&submodel=BASE

I'm not one to spend much time off road and doubt I'll bebe keeping it long-term, so dumping close to what I paid for the vehicle just to rebuild a trans doesn't pass muster.

Thanks for anyone's shared experience on this, or referral to another source of decent options.

Bulldogger
 

juanprado

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I used to be in another lifetime a sales rep for a reman engine wholesaler/retailer that went chap 11......

One of my main Competitors was Jasper (solid quality ) and they are still going strong 20 years later. They do offer reman trannys also. They do have distributors in many states. I would check them out.

Your local shop is crazy stupid and maybe plain rip off. I don't even think a cottman or ammco would charge that kind of money for a 4l80e that has been around a long time now.....
 

Mullaney

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I used to be in another lifetime a sales rep for a reman engine wholesaler/retailer that went chap 11......

One of my main Competitors was Jasper (solid quality ) and they are still going strong 20 years later. They do offer reman trannys also. They do have distributors in many states. I would check them out.

Your local shop is crazy stupid and maybe plain rip off. I don't even think a cottman or ammco would charge that kind of money for a 4l80e that has been around a long time now.....
.
Jasper does a lot of Ford re-manufacturing for a local truck only shop here in town. I know one of the techs and the company is really happy with the quality. Thye stand behind their product as well...
.
 

Mogman

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I used to be in another lifetime a sales rep for a reman engine wholesaler/retailer that went chap 11......

One of my main Competitors was Jasper (solid quality ) and they are still going strong 20 years later. They do offer reman trannys also. They do have distributors in many states. I would check them out.

Your local shop is crazy stupid and maybe plain rip off. I don't even think a cottman or ammco would charge that kind of money for a 4l80e that has been around a long time now.....
I had not thought about AAMCO in years :ROFLMAO: , never went there that they did not try and sell me a transmission, even the time I brought my moms car in for the first service after she bought a rebuilt transmission from them, boy they sure were crawfishing when they figured out it was one of theirs and under warranty.
 

Bulldogger

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Thanks for the replies. I’ve been on the phone w Jasper. Their product impressed me. The Jasper option is more expensive than some but has a very solid warranty. I’m trying for good enough, rather than sink a lot into a truck I’m going to sell. Probably easier to sell it as-is.
 

BKubu

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Have you considered a take-out transmission? Try Eastern Surplus. I don't know their warranty policy, but I would assume they would guarantee to sell you a working transmission.
 

Bulldogger

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Have you considered a take-out transmission? Try Eastern Surplus. I don't know their warranty policy, but I would assume they would guarantee to sell you a working transmission.
I'll give them a call. From the pictures the trans' look like they've been ripped out without much thought or care. Fittings and connections are probably open or broken or both. Look more like cores than usable trans. But I'll give them a call.
BDGR
 

Bulldogger

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Speaking of surplus/rebuilds, does anyone know if the 96-97 Hummer H1 4L80E is a direct fit for a stock late 90's HMMWV 6.5TD 4L80E? I'm wondering about tailstock, splines, mounts, oil pan, etc. I used to know the answer but have forgotten. There are rebuilds out there for Hummer H1 and they have slowly come down in price as H1 business slowly fades. Now they are comparable to the cost for a Suburban w similar drivetrain, in my observation.
BDGR
 

86humv

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91-96 4L80e...had cooling issues, so they updated design 97 and above.
91-96 has cooling in and out next to each other like the 400 turbo trans...97+ separated cooling connections and different pan.
 

Retiredwarhorses

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Speaking of surplus/rebuilds, does anyone know if the 96-97 Hummer H1 4L80E is a direct fit for a stock late 90's HMMWV 6.5TD 4L80E? I'm wondering about tailstock, splines, mounts, oil pan, etc. I used to know the answer but have forgotten. There are rebuilds out there for Hummer H1 and they have slowly come down in price as H1 business slowly fades. Now they are comparable to the cost for a Suburban w similar drivetrain, in my observation.
BDGR
hmmwv only takes 98 and above 80e trans, the cooling lines on 98 and above are no longer co-nested but moved one liquid line to the rear planetary to address fluid starvation.

my local shop charges $2800 for a complete rebuild with a 3/36 warranty , I’d be looking at a different shop.
and don’t be fooled by $1200 rebuilt transmissions…you get what you pay for.
A good shop uses quality parts and performs the required mods to the transmissions the factory should have implemented.
 

Bulldogger

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hmmwv only takes 98 and above 80e trans, the cooling lines on 98 and above are no longer co-nested but moved one liquid line to the rear planetary to address fluid starvation.

my local shop charges $2800 for a complete rebuild with a 3/36 warranty , I’d be looking at a different shop.
and don’t be fooled by $1200 rebuilt transmissions…you get what you pay for.
A good shop uses quality parts and performs the required mods to the transmissions the factory should have implemented.
Many, many thanks for those clarifications RWH. I spoke to a local remanufacturer this afternoon and they said they can’t or prefer not to build pre-98, but perhaps I don’t have a 1997 even if that’s what my engine plate says.
I crawled under the truck and the send and return cooling lines are on the right (passenger side) one about 3” aft of the dipstick and the second about 10” aft of it and 4” ahead of the tail stock and TC. Is that a 98? If so, great, and what then do I tell the local provider who is concerned that it might be burned up inside from me putting so many miles on it? What specs do I tell them to look for a reman in their warehouse?
Here are some pics to help.
Thanks again all, Bulldogger
 

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Retiredwarhorses

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Many, many thanks for those clarifications RWH. I spoke to a local remanufacturer this afternoon and they said they can’t or prefer not to build pre-98, but perhaps I don’t have a 1997 even if that’s what my engine plate says.
I crawled under the truck and the send and return cooling lines are on the right (passenger side) one about 3” aft of the dipstick and the second about 10” aft of it and 4” ahead of the tail stock and TC. Is that a 98? If so, great, and what then do I tell the local provider who is concerned that it might be burned up inside from me putting so many miles on it? What specs do I tell them to look for a reman in their warehouse?
Here are some pics to help.
Thanks again all, Bulldogger
co-nested liquid lines are about 3-4 apart,
Yours is newer style, it’s the only version used on hmmwv. I’m already concerned that the rebuilder is asking dumb questions like that, any good transmission shop would know how to build that transmission, it’s for a HD diesel application, correct low stall speed torque converter, tone ring on both TISS and TOSS.
How many miles on the truck?
 

Bulldogger

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The rebuilder hasn’t seen it. I’ve been making phone calls. I do agree the $7500 special heavy duty quote is extortion. Without exception everyone I’ve called had no idea what a HMMWV transmission might be so they hedge their bets.
Bear in mind I can’t drive the truck to them…

Knowing I have a 98+ 4L80E helps immensely.
It’s late here. I’ll call them in the morning and talk further.

BDGR
 

Thumper580

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When I had a 998 my local transmission guy built a 700R4 with heavy duty internals, etc, etc. installed for about $2900.00.. Not 4L80E, but I felt it was acceptable and worked like a champ.
 

Bulldogger

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When I had a 998 my local transmission guy built a 700R4 with heavy duty internals, etc, etc. installed for about $2900.00.. Not 4L80E, but I felt it was acceptable and worked like a champ.
Several members of the site have installed 700R4 and are happy. I was considering that route before I stumbled on a late 90's scrapped drivetrain. My 6.2L was VERY tired, so having both engine and 4SPD transmission was a bonus.
BDGR
 

Bulldogger

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Well, the local rebuilder/reman warehouse refuses to even try to source a remanufactured unit because I cannot supply a standard VIN they can cross reference to assure the exact model and internal specs of the replacement. They will look at the current trans if I bring it to them to open and inspect. Problem is I can't take it out myself and must pay a garage to do it, meaning I commit to the $2000 R&R estimate up front whether my trans can be rebuilt or not. If it can't be rebuilt, which is possible, I am left without any transmission.
@RWH, they did give a much better quote on rebuild (it's almost a 2 hour drive, I hadn't been looking that far away). Base rebuild there is $1400 plus cost of any internals that cannot be salvaged.

Eastern Surplus have low-mileage takeouts (so they say, but that was said about the salvage powertrain I bought and it was NOT true, but not from Eastern to be fair) for $995 plus $500 freight, with no warranty included or implied. (Or a fully rebuilt government surplus unit for $6750 plus freight.)

It doesn't seem worth doing. I don't have confidence this will work out well. I'd pull the transmission myself, but I'm not up to it and can't find anyone locally to help. Wife and kids couldn't care less.

I think it's time to cut my losses.

If anyone knows a reliable replacement source, I'll check it out, but Eastern's $1500 "maybe" isn't enough reassurance for me.

Sorry if it sounds like I'm whining, I made a significant $$$ investment in the truck 3 years ago and haven't seen the return or reliability I should.

Thanks for letting me vent a little.

BDGR
 

FlameRed

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Don't give up. Sounds like @Retiredwarhorses is your best bet. He will do it correctly. If I were only two hours away, I would let him do it.

If not, I just went through a TH400 to 4L80 upgrade and I will give you a brief summary of the collective wisdom given to me by the wonderful experts on this site.

  • First, have a local guy rebuild it so that if you have troubles, you can go back and not have to deal with removing/shipping/reinstall. Shipping is a huge expense!
  • If you want a replacement, get one that came out of HMMWV - it will be easier to install and won't cost you an arm, two legs and you penis for extra stuff. I was able to find a 4L80 local for $1200 with driveshafts and cross member and I had to spend a ton of $ on lots of other items.
  • Get the later 4L80, where the cooling outlets are next to each other as they are more reliable than the early 4L80 where the cooling lines are far apart, just as @Retiredwarhorses expertly said above.
  • I am not a expert wrencher myself, but I managed to do the swap in my driveway without a lift. I made the mistake of buying a cheapy sissors type tranny jack for this purpose, which worked fine for removing it. There is a ton of cleareance. I did have to put a jack on the body to get another inch of ground clearance to get the whole unit in and out from underneath but it was easy. But when it came time to installing it, the cheapie sissors jack could not lift the combined tranny, gearbox, and heavy TC. I had to struggle with it for hours using multiple jacks. Moral of the story, just go rent a good hydraulic sissors tranny jack! You will still have to use another jack to support the gearbox. If I can do it, you can!
 

Bulldogger

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co-nested liquid lines are about 3-4 apart,
Yours is newer style, it’s the only version used on hmmwv. I’m already concerned that the rebuilder is asking dumb questions like that, any good transmission shop would know how to build that transmission, it’s for a HD diesel application, correct low stall speed torque converter, tone ring on both TISS and TOSS.
How many miles on the truck?
I see I didn't answer your question about mileage. I honestly don't know. The powertrain came from Global Auto Parts Group in Kansas, arrived on an 8' pallet still attached to the frame. It definitely didn't look low miles, regardless of having been told all the units they scrapped were rarely used.

BDGR
 

Bulldogger

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Don't give up. Sounds like @Retiredwarhorses is your best bet. He will do it correctly. If I were only two hours away, I would let him do it.

If not, I just went through a TH400 to 4L80 upgrade and I will give you a brief summary of the collective wisdom given to me by the wonderful experts on this site.

  • First, have a local guy rebuild it so that if you have troubles, you can go back and not have to deal with removing/shipping/reinstall. Shipping is a huge expense!
  • If you want a replacement, get one that came out of HMMWV - it will be easier to install and won't cost you an arm, two legs and you penis for extra stuff. I was able to find a 4L80 local for $1200 with driveshafts and cross member and I had to spend a ton of $ on lots of other items.
  • Get the later 4L80, where the cooling outlets are next to each other as they are more reliable than the early 4L80 where the cooling lines are far apart, just as @Retiredwarhorses expertly said above.
  • I am not a expert wrencher myself, but I managed to do the swap in my driveway without a lift. I made the mistake of buying a cheapy sissors type tranny jack for this purpose, which worked fine for removing it. There is a ton of cleareance. I did have to put a jack on the body to get another inch of ground clearance to get the whole unit in and out from underneath but it was easy. But when it came time to installing it, the cheapie sissors jack could not lift the combined tranny, gearbox, and heavy TC. I had to struggle with it for hours using multiple jacks. Moral of the story, just go rent a good hydraulic sissors tranny jack! You will still have to use another jack to support the gearbox. If I can do it, you can!
Thanks FlameRed.
Retired War Horses is across the country from me, or I would have gone to see him.

I agree that local work is much better to manage and negotiate. I appear to have the later, stronger 4L80E, but it has suffered from running without fluid for a while (like many, many miles at low speeds) before I realized what was wrong. If it's burned inside the rebuilder might refuse to try.That makes me want to remove it myself, so the lost time is only mine, and not $150/hr like the garage willing to take this on.
I would like to do it myself. But I'm not the strongest man, and can't find much help. It's below freezing here now and like you I'm also limited to the driveway. I have a hydraulic motorcycle lift, which has raised my 750# Harley no problem and I scored a 2 ton shop crane off FB for a good price. I think every day about trying to do it myself. But it would be alone.
Re: your comment on removal: do you mean you pulled the transmission by itself and left the transfer case in place? I was told I should pull them still attached to each other (while supporting the engine separately) by another SS member who has done several swaps. If there is a way to drop just the trans, I'm interested in hearing it.

I haven't given up, but I am closer to saying screw it and getting a 6 year loan on a new Ford Bronco (not that I can afford it).

BDGR
 

Retiredwarhorses

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I see I didn't answer your question about mileage. I honestly don't know. The powertrain came from Global Auto Parts Group in Kansas, arrived on an 8' pallet still attached to the frame. It definitely didn't look low miles, regardless of having been told all the units they scrapped were rarely used.

BDGR
yea, those motors came out of Alabama Demil yard…I’ve had quite a few.
transmissions are always a crap shoot cuz you cant test them like a motor.
where are you located?
 
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