ryanruck
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Try contacting Wolfer Parts on eBay. He may not have any listed but might have them in stock.Same here but only need one. None listed on eBay. 1990 M998
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Try contacting Wolfer Parts on eBay. He may not have any listed but might have them in stock.Same here but only need one. None listed on eBay. 1990 M998
Watch it...some stuff is chinese.Try contacting Wolfer Parts on eBay. He may not have any listed but might have them in stock.
Oh? That's very good to know... I was under the impression they were producing domestically. Now I'm wondering about those HD ball joints I bought (but haven't installed yet).Watch it...some stuff is chinese.
I bought a 10k shaft for mine online for like $110 I think it was shipped to my door. I searched several online vendors, part numbers, etc., ordered it and it fit! For that kinda money an no messing around with boots an joints plus the time it saves its well worth it. I've replaced boots on a couple of others and probably had $20-$30 into boots plus the messing around with them.Pretty sure hitting the brakes is what caused the problem. Tired and sick of calving in the snow and wasn’t thinking about what I was driving. It’s been going bad for a while I just haven’t had the time or money to fix it. I haven’t torn it completely down yet but looking in the torn boot it appears the cage that holds the ball bearings split in half. I have all six ball bearings still. My Humvee is a 1993 M1038. Should it have 7k or 10k from the factory?
Is there someplace to get just the pieces for the half shaft? I know I can rebuild it but I can’t find the parts anywhere. I am sure with enough time searching I could find it but between work and being a single dad I don’t have a lot of time for searching.
Where did you get it if you don’t mindI bought a 10k shaft for mine online for like $110 I think it was shipped to my door. I searched several online vendors, part numbers, etc., ordered it and it fit! For that kinda money an no messing around with boots an joints plus the time it saves its well worth it. I've replaced boots on a couple of others and probably had $20-$30 into boots plus the messing around with them.
FleaBayWhere did you get it if you don’t mind
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Oh? That's very good to know... I was under the impression they were producing domestically. Now I'm wondering about those HD ball joints I bought (but haven't installed yet).
Then again, I wonder what isn't Chinese made these days.
Does it really matter if they are milspec? Government contracts don’t always go to the guy with the best product. 99% of the time they give the contract to the lowest bidder. It’s not the guy with the quality product that get the contract it’s the guy that can get the most parts at the lowest price. MILSPEC just means the part meets the bare minimum requirements of the contract.Well, I’m assuming that parts which are stamped with US manufacturer codes and/or NSNs or part numbers are most likely those made per MILSPEC contract details. Stamped, roll-stamped, engraved, otherwise indelibly marked per DoD guideines.
I have received several items from the Lupine Parts companies (there are several of them, advertising under different names but invoices all come from the big bad Wolf - augusta, GA, if I recall correctly), parts which only had a printed STICKER but which he/they insisted were manufactured to MILSPEC, he/they sold thousands of them, yadda yadda.
Chicom crap.
I’m not buying it, and I’ve returned it. Won’t/wouldn’t buy from him/them again, don’t advise taking chances.
YMMV.
Yes, it matters as a lot of the knock off junk on ebay is not even MILSPEC. It is not just a quality issue, a lot of the chicom parts do not even fit.Does it really matter if they are milspec? Government contracts don’t always go to the guy with the best product. 99% of the time they give the contract to the lowest bidder. It’s not the guy with the quality product that get the contract it’s the guy that can get the most parts at the lowest price. MILSPEC just means the part meets the bare minimum requirements of the contract.
I have only replaced boots-even on cars its not worth rebuilding as a lot of CV shafts for cars/trucks are only $60-$100 each. Even now days with a boot kit a person might have $30-$40 just into boots-plus your time an when you can get a CV shaft ready to bolt in for $60-$100 on a vehicle-ya I don't know of anyone that rebuilds them. It sucks as I tend to more of a tinkerer myself but its one of those things that really doesn't happen much an the cost/time/benefit factor is a big consideration in a case like this.Has anyone rebuilt their half shafts at all? I know most people think it’s not worth the time but I don’t have the spare cash for a new half shaft.
we never reuse fasteners...rotors get new bolts and nordloks, End shafts get new bolt and lock washer, all bolts get red loktite.Looking to take this one on myself. I have a torn boot on the front right halfshaft. Mine's an 88 998. If I'm following along correctly, there is NO 12k upgrade when it comes to a simple swap out? Is that right? I'm also gathering the orig 998 halfshafts are 7k and now we should use 10k ones? That would lead me to part 12342974-2. I've found this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HUMVEE-FRO...517457?hash=item3abf1dffd1:g:jcIAAOSwwpdW4Dta Should the bolts be re-used or replaced? I have the Locktite 272. People here are saying only locktite the brake caliper side, but the tm dictates also the one bolt on the hub side. Finally for the lockwashers. It seems I need 6 of the brake side (11500177/5310-01-185-7218 and one hub side (MS35338-65/5310-00-011-5093).
For the hub side, I've researched it back to a #10 Zinc Yellow and back to Fastenal: https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/9900420
For the brake side(6), Seems 10MM steel splitwasher? I've gotton this far, but not sure if material matters? Zinc/Stainless/Steel? https://www.fastenal.com/products?term=10mm+lockwasher
Trying to write down exacts to help future people but also confirm before I go tearing into this guy. Thanks for thoughts/corrections/etc.
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