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HMMWV Half Shafts

ryanruck

Active member
427
46
28
Location
Cincinnati, OH
Watch it...some stuff is chinese.
Oh? That's very good to know... I was under the impression they were producing domestically. Now I'm wondering about those HD ball joints I bought (but haven't installed yet).

Then again, I wonder what isn't Chinese made these days. :neutral:
 

dhaumann69166

Active member
234
78
28
Location
Hyannis, Nebraska
Are the half shafts for the Hummer H1 the same as a Humvee? I have found some advertised as 10k that fit a 2002 to 2006 Hummer H1. Will they fit on my 1993 HMMWV? I was busting snow extremely wet snow drifts and broke my right front half shaft. Tractors and the Humvee were the only thing getting around yesterday. I would like to rebuild it if possible to save money. I have all six ball bearings but the cage on the outside joint is broken. Can you get a new cage and parts to rebuild them? Is it possible to change my existing shafts to 10k by replacing the internal pieces? I would even be ok with rebuilding them as 7k if possible to save money. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
F8CB5463-AD45-4841-A0B3-AD8D1F83DDB2.jpg
 

Action

Well-known member
3,576
1,557
113
Location
East Tennessee
The actual shaft is thicker on a 10k vs a 7k. The later H1 shafts have a tone ring on them, but basically the same.
Make sure you buy a shaft that has the same size area in the center of the rotor.
Did your halfshaft break when you hit the brakes?
 

dhaumann69166

Active member
234
78
28
Location
Hyannis, Nebraska
Pretty sure hitting the brakes is what caused the problem. Tired and sick of calving in the snow and wasn’t thinking about what I was driving. It’s been going bad for a while I just haven’t had the time or money to fix it. I haven’t torn it completely down yet but looking in the torn boot it appears the cage that holds the ball bearings split in half. I have all six ball bearings still. My Humvee is a 1993 M1038. Should it have 7k or 10k from the factory?

Is there someplace to get just the pieces for the half shaft? I know I can rebuild it but I can’t find the parts anywhere. I am sure with enough time searching I could find it but between work and being a single dad I don’t have a lot of time for searching.
 
Last edited:

teteacher101

Member
127
4
18
Location
WI
Pretty sure hitting the brakes is what caused the problem. Tired and sick of calving in the snow and wasn’t thinking about what I was driving. It’s been going bad for a while I just haven’t had the time or money to fix it. I haven’t torn it completely down yet but looking in the torn boot it appears the cage that holds the ball bearings split in half. I have all six ball bearings still. My Humvee is a 1993 M1038. Should it have 7k or 10k from the factory?

Is there someplace to get just the pieces for the half shaft? I know I can rebuild it but I can’t find the parts anywhere. I am sure with enough time searching I could find it but between work and being a single dad I don’t have a lot of time for searching.
I bought a 10k shaft for mine online for like $110 I think it was shipped to my door. I searched several online vendors, part numbers, etc., ordered it and it fit! For that kinda money an no messing around with boots an joints plus the time it saves its well worth it. I've replaced boots on a couple of others and probably had $20-$30 into boots plus the messing around with them.
 

Rmtaunton

Well-known member
1,510
31
48
Location
Smyrna, ga
I bought a 10k shaft for mine online for like $110 I think it was shipped to my door. I searched several online vendors, part numbers, etc., ordered it and it fit! For that kinda money an no messing around with boots an joints plus the time it saves its well worth it. I've replaced boots on a couple of others and probably had $20-$30 into boots plus the messing around with them.
Where did you get it if you don’t mind


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,220
72
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
Oh? That's very good to know... I was under the impression they were producing domestically. Now I'm wondering about those HD ball joints I bought (but haven't installed yet).

Then again, I wonder what isn't Chinese made these days. :neutral:


Well, I’m assuming that parts which are stamped with US manufacturer codes and/or NSNs or part numbers are most likely those made per MILSPEC contract details. Stamped, roll-stamped, engraved, otherwise indelibly marked per DoD guideines.

I have received several items from the Lupine Parts companies (there are several of them, advertising under different names but invoices all come from the big bad Wolf - augusta, GA, if I recall correctly), parts which only had a printed STICKER but which he/they insisted were manufactured to MILSPEC, he/they sold thousands of them, yadda yadda.

Chicom crap.

I’m not buying it, and I’ve returned it. Won’t/wouldn’t buy from him/them again, don’t advise taking chances.

YMMV.
 

dhaumann69166

Active member
234
78
28
Location
Hyannis, Nebraska
Well, I’m assuming that parts which are stamped with US manufacturer codes and/or NSNs or part numbers are most likely those made per MILSPEC contract details. Stamped, roll-stamped, engraved, otherwise indelibly marked per DoD guideines.

I have received several items from the Lupine Parts companies (there are several of them, advertising under different names but invoices all come from the big bad Wolf - augusta, GA, if I recall correctly), parts which only had a printed STICKER but which he/they insisted were manufactured to MILSPEC, he/they sold thousands of them, yadda yadda.

Chicom crap.

I’m not buying it, and I’ve returned it. Won’t/wouldn’t buy from him/them again, don’t advise taking chances.

YMMV.
Does it really matter if they are milspec? Government contracts don’t always go to the guy with the best product. 99% of the time they give the contract to the lowest bidder. It’s not the guy with the quality product that get the contract it’s the guy that can get the most parts at the lowest price. MILSPEC just means the part meets the bare minimum requirements of the contract.
 

desmodromic

Member
235
22
18
Location
New York, New York
Does it really matter if they are milspec? Government contracts don’t always go to the guy with the best product. 99% of the time they give the contract to the lowest bidder. It’s not the guy with the quality product that get the contract it’s the guy that can get the most parts at the lowest price. MILSPEC just means the part meets the bare minimum requirements of the contract.
Yes, it matters as a lot of the knock off junk on ebay is not even MILSPEC. It is not just a quality issue, a lot of the chicom parts do not even fit.
 

teteacher101

Member
127
4
18
Location
WI
Has anyone rebuilt their half shafts at all? I know most people think it’s not worth the time but I don’t have the spare cash for a new half shaft.
I have only replaced boots-even on cars its not worth rebuilding as a lot of CV shafts for cars/trucks are only $60-$100 each. Even now days with a boot kit a person might have $30-$40 just into boots-plus your time an when you can get a CV shaft ready to bolt in for $60-$100 on a vehicle-ya I don't know of anyone that rebuilds them. It sucks as I tend to more of a tinkerer myself but its one of those things that really doesn't happen much an the cost/time/benefit factor is a big consideration in a case like this.
 

CGregson

New member
29
7
3
Location
Sammamish/WA
Looking to take this one on myself. I have a torn boot on the front right halfshaft. Mine's an 88 998. If I'm following along correctly, there is NO 12k upgrade when it comes to a simple swap out? Is that right? I'm also gathering the orig 998 halfshafts are 7k and now we should use 10k ones? That would lead me to part 12342974-2. I've found this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HUMVEE-FRO...517457?hash=item3abf1dffd1:g:jcIAAOSwwpdW4Dta Should the bolts be re-used or replaced? I have the Locktite 272. People here are saying only locktite the brake caliper side, but the tm dictates also the one bolt on the hub side. Finally for the lockwashers. It seems I need 6 of the brake side (11500177/5310-01-185-7218 and one hub side (MS35338-65/5310-00-011-5093).

For the hub side, I've researched it back to a #10 Zinc Yellow and back to Fastenal: https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/9900420

For the brake side(6), Seems 10MM steel splitwasher? I've gotton this far, but not sure if material matters? Zinc/Stainless/Steel? https://www.fastenal.com/products?term=10mm+lockwasher

Trying to write down exacts to help future people but also confirm before I go tearing into this guy. Thanks for thoughts/corrections/etc.[SUB][/SUB]
 

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,397
4,181
113
Location
Brentwood, Calif
Looking to take this one on myself. I have a torn boot on the front right halfshaft. Mine's an 88 998. If I'm following along correctly, there is NO 12k upgrade when it comes to a simple swap out? Is that right? I'm also gathering the orig 998 halfshafts are 7k and now we should use 10k ones? That would lead me to part 12342974-2. I've found this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HUMVEE-FRO...517457?hash=item3abf1dffd1:g:jcIAAOSwwpdW4Dta Should the bolts be re-used or replaced? I have the Locktite 272. People here are saying only locktite the brake caliper side, but the tm dictates also the one bolt on the hub side. Finally for the lockwashers. It seems I need 6 of the brake side (11500177/5310-01-185-7218 and one hub side (MS35338-65/5310-00-011-5093).

For the hub side, I've researched it back to a #10 Zinc Yellow and back to Fastenal: https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/9900420

For the brake side(6), Seems 10MM steel splitwasher? I've gotton this far, but not sure if material matters? Zinc/Stainless/Steel? https://www.fastenal.com/products?term=10mm+lockwasher

Trying to write down exacts to help future people but also confirm before I go tearing into this guy. Thanks for thoughts/corrections/etc.
we never reuse fasteners...rotors get new bolts and nordloks, End shafts get new bolt and lock washer, all bolts get red loktite.
 

twisted60

Well-known member
617
250
63
Location
Jupiter, Florida
Several guys are saying they have taken the half shaft apart and it's "time consuming but not difficult" but no one gives a play by play. I'm trying to break down an extra half shaft to build it up as a spare, inspect, new boots, fresh grease, fresh paint. The inboard side has a retainer ring pressed on so I don't see that end coming apart without a fight. The outboard side seams to be the best bet to remove...but how ? You tube has guys beating the outboard off with a big hammer, the TM says use a slide hammer, anyone have a way that works good for them ? A play by play or video ? My boots are not torn but are cracking and need replacement, once I figure out how to break down the half shafts I plan to re-pack with fresh CV grease and put new boots on all my half shafts. Sounds like a fun weekend...right ?
 
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