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HMMWV M1097R1 specific

INFChief

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I’ve been AWOL for some time. Too much going on. Still have the 998 and 1097R1. Have assembled a decent assortment of parts. Still need to source an oil pan gasket for the 6.5 NA. GovPlanet kindly dented my engine oil pan up and I’m not going to take any chances & “send it”. I also need a B & C pillar but unless I can find a smoking good deal that will have to wait until she’s running & driving.
 

mccullek

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Oxford MS
I have my new 2 door to 4 door top and parts, along with new skins for 4 doors, but I haven't had time to change it out yet either. I plan to paint mine with the desert-colored truck bed paint as well. The pics of the one in this thread look great. I'm hoping mine turns out as nice. I have about 5 projects going and just can't get to anything it seems. I will update for my 1097R1 when I get it done.
 

m35a

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Been absent for years from this site, picked up a R1 last November. I just dropped in a used engine and have mine running and driving now.

I am in the process of putting a slant back on it and painting the interior.
 

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MapMaster

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I have a 2008 M1097R1 serial # 612755. Where can I find a Power steering pump for this model? Most sites only have pumps for serial numbers way lower than mine.
 

Mogman

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I have a 2008 M1097R1 serial # 612755. Where can I find a Power steering pump for this model? Most sites only have pumps for serial numbers way lower than mine.
If it has the reservoir on the pump it is just a plain ol Saginaw P series (metric) pump found on just about every 80s GM vehicle built.
That would be for the trucks with V belts, if you have a remote reservoir pump with a serpentine belt then it is the later A2 version it is the later style pump.
2530014912681 K5667 1200359 PUMP,POWER STEER.
 

Mogman

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I have a 2008 M1097R1 serial # 612755. Where can I find a Power steering pump for this model? Most sites only have pumps for serial numbers way lower than mine.
The thing is your truck was rebuilt and given a new serial number, I think the 600XXX trucks started as A2 trucks, 196XXX and above, but not positive
 

MapMaster

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If it has the reservoir on the pump it is just a plain ol Saginaw P series (metric) pump found on just about every 80s GM vehicle built.
That would be for the trucks with V belts, if you have a remote reservoir pump with a serpentine belt then it is the later A2 version it is the later style pump.
2530014912681 K5667 1200359 PUMP,POWER STEER.
Very informative, thank you for the reply. It makes sense that I can't find info on the truck if it was rebuilt.
My pump (pictured) appears to have the reservoir on the pump and I have V-Belts. Is it safe to assume I have the A1 version for ordering all parts? I looked up Saginaw P series pumps and of course there several different kinds, depending on the reservoir placement and pulley attachment. The hunt continues...
 

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Mogman

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Very informative, thank you for the reply. It makes sense that I can't find info on the truck if it was rebuilt.
My pump (pictured) appears to have the reservoir on the pump and I have V-Belts. Is it safe to assume I have the A1 version for ordering all parts? I looked up Saginaw P series pumps and of course there several different kinds, depending on the reservoir placement and pulley attachment. The hunt continues...
Get a "raw" Saginaw P series metric pump and swap over the pulley (has to be removed anyway to change the pump) and reservoir
Something like this for say a mid 80s all the way to around 2000 C10 truck.
The metric pump does not have a keyway for the pulley, the early P seris does and that is not what you want.
So yes most of the parts for your truck will be the A1 series, but for the transfer case, internal engine and a few other things.
Edit you can also buy a high performance P series pump but IMHO it is a waste of money, the replacement pump could have a different pressure control valve setting so re-use the high pressure fitting that screws into the back of the pump, that is where that valving is located.
 
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Gcelevator

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Get a "raw" Saginaw P series metric pump and swap over the pulley (has to be removed anyway to change the pump) and reservoir
Something like this for say a mid 80s all the way to around 2000 C10 truck.
The metric pump does not have a keyway for the pulley, the early P seris does and that is not what you want.
So yes most of the parts for your truck will be the A1 series, but for the transfer case, internal engine and a few other things.
Edit you can also buy a high performance P series pump but IMHO it is a waste of money, the replacement pump could have a different pressure control valve setting so re-use the high pressure fitting that screws into the back of the pump, that is where that valving is located.
Not sure but that pump looks exactly the same as the ones in 90's and early 2000's mercruiser engines.
 

Mogman

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Not sure but that pump looks exactly the same as the ones in 90's and early 2000's mercruiser engines.
They used that pump in tons of applications, with GM from early 80s until after 2010 in some applications even today, many others used it too including Mopar.
 

Coug

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Very informative, thank you for the reply. It makes sense that I can't find info on the truck if it was rebuilt.
My pump (pictured) appears to have the reservoir on the pump and I have V-Belts. Is it safe to assume I have the A1 version for ordering all parts? I looked up Saginaw P series pumps and of course there several different kinds, depending on the reservoir placement and pulley attachment. The hunt continues...
If it has V-belts, it started out as an A0/A1 truck. When looking for parts in the future, you should use the M1097A1 for reference.





The thing is your truck was rebuilt and given a new serial number, I think the 600XXX trucks started as A2 trucks, 196XXX and above, but not positive
From what I saw, the serial numbers between 570000 and 599000 are the A2 trucks, and any numbers below that or above that are A1 trucks.
The only actual document I've seen doesn't list anything above 599000 but every person I've seen post a 6XXXXX serial number has been an A1 so far.
 

INFChief

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Finally started on the 1097R1. Removed the hood & radiation & P/S & transmission oil coolers. I need to replace the fan clutch and shroud anyway. GP crunched my engine oil pan up with a forklift when moving it around so I pulled the oil pan off.

Let me tell you; the RTV they used could hold a space shuttle together during a mega-hot Mach 25 re-entry. Holy Hannah that rascal was on there!

The oil pickup tube and screen were fine for which I let out a small sigh of relief!

So I was a Bradley Fighting Vehicle & a M1A1 m1A2 instructor. I helped shape how the Army organized TM’s. Thus far, the 280 series TM’s are not impressive. That’s a topic for another post though.

The oil filter was missing and there was maybe a quart of oil in it. The cooling system was “drained” but not completely. The only upside to that was there was no mess and nothing to go dispose of.

I will need bits & bobs and some nuts & bolts. I should have plenty of metric & SAE hardware but smaller parts will be a challenge. I can’t wrap my head around silly stuff like the lower thermostat housing bolt missing. Must be they needed one for another vehicle and knew where one was close by.

I need to drop the fuel tank and “flush” it out. It sat for, who knows how long & in what type of weather without a fuel tank cap.

Oil pan rear seal should be in later today and I plan to scrape off the RTV from the engine oil pan mounting rails. I am a fan of gaskets. This did not have an oil pan gaskets - just 1/16” thick bead of super-industrial strength RTV & the rear crescent seal. I ordered a gasket set for 96 Suburban 6.5 based on the recommended of Todd Hergott. Hopefully what they send me is correct. I will run a thin film of RTV on both sides of the gasket when I install the new one. More to follow.
 

Retiredwarhorses

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I have a 2008 M1097R1 serial # 612755. Where can I find a Power steering pump for this model? Most sites only have pumps for serial numbers way lower than mine.
if your a V-belt? You need an RCSK18330 pump…
your SN was assigned during reset…so it doesn’t really follow the normal SN range as referenced in the TM’s.
 

INFChief

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Location
New York
Installed the new oil pan. Cleaned out the oil pan mounting bolt holes & chased the threads to get RTV out. Need to buy coolant but I reckon I’ll replace the T-stat while the coolant is drained. Will replace the fan clutch, impeller, and shroud as I reassemble. One of the fan clutch hoses is missing but I think I can get one made. Gotta source a N3135 dual voltage regulator. The prices I’m finding for them online are all over the place.
 

INFChief

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Mine has a serial in the 700,000s and has a date of 2006. Hoping I can figure out the real date to lessen the fight with the DMV since I know it has to be 25 years old.

In a few days when it shows up I'll be able to crawl through it and see if there's any date stamped somewhere, from the pictures it has a GEP 6.5L so at least that part is new even if the transmission is still a 3 speed.
How did your HMMWV look on arrival? Progress?
 

INFChief

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The best reason for the quick connect, which do leak sometimes is to make it easier to change belts, only you do not need to disconnect the hose to change a serpentine belt which appears to be in production about the time they started installing the quick connects, would be handy for V belts which do not last all that long and require removing the hose, I am curious if they installed them on the 3 speed R1s when they rebuilt them which still have V belts.
Makes sense.
 
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