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hmmwv tachometer installation

papakb

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There's a rather large resusitation pack that's part of the ambulance equipment compliment along with the AC and NBC equipments mentioned above. Very rarely were ambulances fitted with winches but the 6K and 9K winches draw lots of power and the MileMarker 12K is hydraulic and needs the steering pump running to operate.

Kurt
 

TNriverjet

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Recovry4x4

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I have not...yet. 2 issues, one of which could be significant. The tach and such is 24V. Not in itself a problem but one needs to be cognizant of that. The 2nd problem is that the tach drive replaces the vacuum pump on the 6.2. I think there are vac pumps that can run the sensor but not sure. No vacuum means no shifting with the 400 Turbo. My truck will have a 4 speed soon so I can replace my vac pump with the tach sensor.
 

TNriverjet

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PDF from AM General

I have not...yet. 2 issues, one of which could be significant. The tach and such is 24V. Not in itself a problem but one needs to be cognizant of that. The 2nd problem is that the tach drive replaces the vacuum pump on the 6.2. I think there are vac pumps that can run the sensor but not sure. No vacuum means no shifting with the 400 Turbo. My truck will have a 4 speed soon so I can replace my vac pump with the tach sensor.
I have a PDF from AM General showing tach signal attachment to the alternator. For some reason, I can only upload page one of the 2-page PDF to my photos. PM me your email address and I'll send you a copy.

EDIT: got them separated. let me know if you still want an emailed copy.
View attachment Tachometer-A2.pdfView attachment Tachometer-A2 Pg2.pdf
 
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Wanted to say thanks to hmmwv1 for this thread, and TNriverjet for the tach (got it from you off another site.) Got mine wired up this past weekend and it works great at idle. Didn't get to take it up to speed due to another issue. I wired mine the same as hmmwv1 to the tach drive, but ran the light power to a toggle switch on the radio mount. The tach power and ground hook up underneath my radio mount which already has 24v running to it from a relay connected to the ignition and batteries. I'm going to run the loose wires seen inside a plastic shroud piece, just wanted to make sure it works before doing that yet.

The mount isn't pretty, but works ok for now. I ended up using a chunk out of an old 3 hole front bumper I had. The 3 holes in that bumper are the perfect size for the tach, so it saved from having to buy a large hole saw for it.
 

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hummer4x4guy

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Interesting photo of a factory installed tach and it's not in an ambulance.
Photo taken from a book I recently bought.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Sharecropper

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Here's a question - the tach shown in the photo requires internal illumination. Do the later HMMWV tachs have translucent housings for external illumination like the latest HMMWV gauges?
 

WAGNUM

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Which is better, pulling the signal from the tach drive or pulling signal from the alternator? Also, in hmmwv1's first pic, it looks like there are two red wires. I see where the first one goes but where does the second red wire go?
 

86humv

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Here's a question - the tach shown in the photo requires internal illumination. Do the later HMMWV tachs have translucent housings for external illumination like the latest HMMWV gauges?
No way to illuminate the windshield mount one, unless you use the buss bar type on the windshield mount.
 

TNriverjet

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Which is better, pulling the signal from the tach drive or pulling signal from the alternator? Also, in hmmwv1's first pic, it looks like there are two red wires. I see where the first one goes but where does the second red wire go?
Wagnum, here is part of the description from the first post:
One wire (assuming red due to process of elimination) is for keyed power. The other should tie into another gauge light wire to provide illumination.

Blacks are are ground and he used the other colors for tach pulse signal. I would use the tach drive for ease if install unless your engine uses that mechanical drive for something different like on a CUCV.

I'm pretty sure the red wire that comes on the tach is for the light. The red wire he used on the terminals should be the keyed power to run the tach and hour meter.
 

WAGNUM

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Wagnum, here is part of the description from the first post:
One wire (assuming red due to process of elimination) is for keyed power. The other should tie into another gauge light wire to provide illumination.

Blacks are are ground and he used the other colors for tach pulse signal. I would use the tach drive for ease if install unless your engine uses that mechanical drive for something different like on a CUCV.

I'm pretty sure the red wire that comes on the tach is for the light. The red wire he used on the terminals should be the keyed power to run the tach and hour meter.
TNriverjet,
Got it. Thanks for the clarification. FYI guys, TNriverjet has been awesome to deal with. He shipped the tach out to me ASAP, had great install instructions in the box, and the tach is in perfect condition. If you're doing the 4L80e swap, it just makes good sense to have one of these Tachs.
 

WAGNUM

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IMG_1554.jpgIMG_1555.jpgIMG_1556.jpg
I shoulda took a picture of the bracket itself before I mounted it, but you get the general idea. I saw something similar to this on the ultra-webs. Way easier to run the wires, and you can actually see the gauge. Thanks again for the tach, it works great.
 

Stein12501

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Tebbetts, MO.
Tnriverjet still working on it. Trying to mount it in an aluminum box and then mount it to the radio shelf. Also trying to install a new steering wheel. So I'm bouncing back and forth. I'll post some pics when completed. Thanks,
 

Stein12501

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Well TNriverjet I finally got it installed. Wired as shown in write-up and it works like a charm. I love having it to monitor the rpm's and the hour meter for doing maintenance on the vehicle. Thanks,
 

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