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Holy hell 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

TOBASH

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Shift into reverse from drive at 30MPH will kill the engine. Always a good thing to remember with runaway engines. I’ve done it in other vehicles.
 

TOBASH

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ummmm, shifting it to reverse will decimate your park pawl at just 1/2mph
Hi Steve! How’s it going? Hoping to visit in March.

re.: Runaways… Runaway engine is runaway engine. It’s about to explode. Tranny rebuild is cheap in comparison.

If you can’t cut the fuel or if the engine starts sucking oil, what else are you going to do aside from emptying a CO2 or chemical gas fire extinguisher down the intake?

We are talking about an emergency situation and not an everyday scenario.
 
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Retiredwarhorses

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Hi Steve! How’s it going? Hoping to visit in March.

re.: Runaways… Runaway engine is runaway engine. It’s about to explode. Tranny rebuild is cheap in comparison.

If you can’t cut the fuel or if the engine starts sucking oil, what else are you going to do aside from emptying a CO2 or chemical gas fire extinguisher down the intake?

We are talking about an emergency situation and not an everyday scenario.
I love Monday morning QB’s
 

TOBASH

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I love Monday morning QB’s
I’ve had three runaways Steve. One gas and two Toyota Diesels. Two automatic trannies and one manual on a Toyota Diesel. Gasser was TH400.

This is what I did, and zero trannies were noticeably damaged.

So much for MMQ.
😕
 

Retiredwarhorses

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I’ve had three runaways Steve. One gas and two Toyota Diesels. Two automatic trannies and one manual on a Toyota Diesel. Gasser was TH400.

This is what I did, and zero trannies were noticeably damaged.

So much for MMQ.
😕
remind me not to ride in your trucks, over 30yrs as a Diesel mechanic and till that day, never had or seen a runaway diesel, this includes
god knows how many diesel Generators i have worked on.
and a reminder, this “runaway” as you call it was not due to what Normally causes a runaway diesel engine.…but the EP’s are the same.
 
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TOBASH

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Not an unheard of issue with 6.5 DS4 Hummers and trucks.

Old Toyota BJ fuel cutoffs also liked to fail.

You should definitely drive in my rigs. You sold me one, and besides where is your sense of adventure??? You wanna live forever?
 

Retiredwarhorses

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Not an unheard of issue with 6.5 DS4 Hummers and trucks.

Old Toyota BJ fuel cutoffs also liked to fail.

You should definitely drive in my rigs. You sold me one, and besides where is your sense of adventure??? You wanna live forever?
DS4‘s are NOT inherently more prone to run aways, I work on them to in the H1’s since 1999, owned more H1’s than
i can remember, never had a problem with any DS4 in the shop…PMD failure? Yes…but thats a dead motor, not a run away.
 

MarkM

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1. Using your panic-enhanced strength, rip the mushroom off the intake
2. Mimicking Groundskeeper Willie, tear your shirt from your body
3. Stuff the shirt down the intake
4. Buy a round of beer for the house

:beer:
While the truck is screaming down the highway ?

Damn

Lol
 

osteo16

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Damper on air intake? shut off manually or electricly .. Question is, how much air do you havce to remove/stop to kill engine? I could get a damper to seal out maybe 80-85% of incoming air.


I will probably toss in a fuel valve in cab where DWF hole is.. That still leave quite a bit of fuel in filter unfortunately ..
 

87cr250r

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On the opposite end of the spectrum, I've had my throttle cable break on an uphill and blind turn on a mountain highway. Truck stopped and I could hear traffic skidding behind me. It took a minute or two but I realized if I shut the engine off I could put it in 4 low without locking the hubs. Started it up, dropped it in drive, and inched my way to a turnout. Whew. I was able to splice the cable back together with a Molly Hogan splice to get home.
 

FlameRed

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I have done a bunch of thinking and searching and I think, which is always questionable according to the wife, that I might have a solution that might satisfy both an anti-theift and run-away concerns without opening the hood.

I found a Motorized Ball Valve 24VDC with Auto Return. This valve is normally closed. So the theory goes, just power it with "Run" off the ignition switch, well almost, and the valve will open, let fuel flow and the engine run.

Unlike a solenoid value, no power is used once the valve is opened.

Got a run-away? Turn off the ignition, the value does not get power, automatically closes and shuts off fuel.

Live in da hood like me? Add a hidden switch that you can turn off the power and they won't get too far without fuel.

My only dilemma? Ignition Run does not provide power during cranking, so value will close during cranking. I am not sure if the engine will fire up without fuel during cranking.

I might just order it just to try it.

Thoughts?
 

HUMMER H1

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I have done a bunch of thinking and searching and I think, which is always questionable according to the wife, that I might have a solution that might satisfy both an anti-theift and run-away concerns without opening the hood.

I found a Motorized Ball Valve 24VDC with Auto Return. This valve is normally closed. So the theory goes, just power it with "Run" off the ignition switch, well almost, and the valve will open, let fuel flow and the engine run.

Unlike a solenoid value, no power is used once the valve is opened.

Got a run-away? Turn off the ignition, the value does not get power, automatically closes and shuts off fuel.

Live in da hood like me? Add a hidden switch that you can turn off the power and they won't get too far without fuel.

My only dilemma? Ignition Run does not provide power during cranking, so value will close during cranking. I am not sure if the engine will fire up without fuel during cranking.

I might just order it just to try it.

Thoughts?
Do you have a link of that part ?
 

Mogman

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I have done a bunch of thinking and searching and I think, which is always questionable according to the wife, that I might have a solution that might satisfy both an anti-theift and run-away concerns without opening the hood.

I found a Motorized Ball Valve 24VDC with Auto Return. This valve is normally closed. So the theory goes, just power it with "Run" off the ignition switch, well almost, and the valve will open, let fuel flow and the engine run.

Unlike a solenoid value, no power is used once the valve is opened.

Got a run-away? Turn off the ignition, the value does not get power, automatically closes and shuts off fuel.

Live in da hood like me? Add a hidden switch that you can turn off the power and they won't get too far without fuel.

My only dilemma? Ignition Run does not provide power during cranking, so value will close during cranking. I am not sure if the engine will fire up without fuel during cranking.

I might just order it just to try it.

Thoughts?
I am a little confused, if it does not use any power after it opens how does it know to close when the power is removed?, also the run power is present during cranking otherwise the engine would not start.
 

NY Tom

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I am a little confused, if it does not use any power after it opens how does it know to close when the power is removed?, also the run power is present during cranking otherwise the engine would not start.
I was curious as well. One type charges a capacitor after opening and uses that stored power to close the valve when you cut the power.

Some energy is needed to maintain the charge in the cap...but less then maintaining a solenoid in the open position it appears.
 
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