Hood skin separating from braces...

[linx310]

I noticed that the areas on braces under the hood skin of my hood have separated. Now when I go down the road I can see the hood skin on the passenger side vibrating.

I really do not want to weld the braces back to the hood skin because I would have to repaint the vehicle. From what it looks like they may have been glued.

Do you think if I cleaned up these areas and used jb weld with text books on top of the hood skin I could get it to bond?

 

[brianrbull]

If you are thinking of using something like that I would recommend trying silicone or something similar as it would flex better than JB Weld....

 

[A3superdeuce]

They use a flexable adhesive from the factory so that the hood will still flex a little with opening and closing as well as temp changes. You don't want to bond it solid or it will buckle.

 

[original]

I used rtv sealant. Vibration/flex stopped.

 

[JDToumanian]

Be sure to fix it or the sheet metal skin will stress crack right in the middle.... That will cause your hood to look like mine.

 

[linx310]

Any recommendations on a specific product I can pick up locally at lowes?

 

[rod]

I'm not sure that JB weld would hold it. Have you checked with some of the Auto Body Supply store or Auto Body Shop to see what they recommend? I suspect a body panel adhesive would be your best chance of holding the hood skin to the braces.

I had the same problem, but knew I was going to paint, so I used the wire-welder to reattach the braces to the skin.

 

[319]

I used a two part auto body panel adhesive on mine. Has held up very well. Can't remember the brand but 3M also makes it. Cost about $35.

 

[lindyp38]

can u post a pic...so i can see what area i need to look out for...?

thanks

 

[jbingvtx]

I've never owned a CUCV but several of the civvy GMs of this vintage and if you don't keep the hood hinges lubricated well it really messes with the welds and can even cause the hood to buckle in the middle. So if you get the skin stuck back down, make sure to make the hinges slippery.

 

[ranchhopper]

I had a lot of 1009s like that usually has the tell tale crack through the rib in the center they are a real pain to open because that takes the spring tension out of the hood so they dont release right. I usually replace the hood but I have saved a few by useing the adhesive called liquid nails after applying the adhesive put a block on your air cleaner and rest the hood down on it and weight the front of the hood down so it keeps pressure on it for a few hours.

 

[zout]

I think its named Silkaflex - tube you can use in your caulk gun - made for this problem for scuffing. Try HD or Lowes. Trying to remember the product # but I think it is 215. Black tube - works wonders like a silicone but better. I use this on semi trailers ribs and skin.

 

[DXTAC]

I used PL Adhesive from Menards but I'm sure Blows or Home Depot has it too. It has worked great!

 

[mikelee]

Mine also did this I re-urethaned and also used great stuff expanding foam amazing how much quieter and the foam really sticks filled in the holes let dry and trimmed 2 years now

 

[Hoolio]

Butyl rubber caulk works better than silicone and doesn't seperate with time / heat..

 

[maxim]

I used the remainder of a tube of sealant that I used to hold in automotive glass. It flexes, does not freeze, very sticky, and allows the steel on the hood to move with the temperature changes, and comes in black. Used on a 1009 and 880 with excellent results.

 

[Yellowsub1962]

I'd also suggest SEM non sag structural adhesive #39337.
You don't have to buy the special gun and mixing tips if you're only going ot use it once, just mix equal parts like JB weld. This stuff flat out works.

here's the first link that popped up in my search
SEM 39337 Door Skin & SMC Adhesive
I buy it from my local auto body supply store about $29ea

 

[linx310]

Just an update guys. I used the Silkaflex product and it worked awesome!