How do you flush a deuce cooling system

[AZDeuce]

11-14-09: Just a short update, the cleaning with CLR WAS successful. Once warmed up, I've taken her out on the freeway three times at 60 MPH+, at 200-2400 RPMS, (I'm running 395s) according to the gauge she's running pretty close to 160-165 degrees, when I come to a stop she'll shoot up to 180 or so and stay there. Once I get moving again she'll slowly cool back down, even at high RPMs.

Prior to this, at around 2400 RPM she's get up to 220 degrees, so I'm happy, I think we can call that operation a success. The one thing I wish that I would have done different, is when I flushed the block after the CLR wash, I wish I would have flushed it with the engine running, as mentioned by a fellow poster above.

The reason I say this is I'm getting the truck ready for a 800 mile round trip tonight, and checked the radiator, and there was still some brown crap floating in my clean coolant. DOH!....oh well, I'll do it a little different next time!

 

[emr]

First I used the new prestone flush 3 bottles and run it a total of 6 hours not needed in all one time, it is in the directions, It worked so much crap out of the engine, I pulled the whole plug,yeesh there was more than could go thru the hole, then pulled the radiator and ran the hose thru it and a huge blob of black gunk the prestone turned the rust into plopped out, that stuff works. so I then ran the pressure washer thru every block opening i had, man she is as clean as clean can be...go for the prestone i think its a new one they have out, it changes the rust into something else, that is better than just a flush.

 

[Westex]

I flushed it out by putting 2 tablespoons of dishwashing detergent in and running it for 4 hours on a little trip, let it cool a bit then put in filtered water and flushed this way about 3 or 4 times until it FINALLY came out clear. Then filled with my preferred coolant for my diesel engines, which is Fleet Charge coolant. It worked really well, but having read emr's post above, I might go the Prestone route next year. Oh, by the way, I personally recommend using distilled water for the water charge.

 

[emr]

Distiled water is the best advise yet, Thanks Westex, I am in the middle of doing in my spare time my 813 and it will get distilled water, I have wanted to for years in my flushing times, but never made the effort, I am doing it from now on, the M38 will be next, i have to say many years of flushing vehicles and I never have seen something like this new prestone do, just an fyi and my opinion.

 

[BugEyeBear]

First I used the new prestone flush 3 bottles and run it a total of 6 hours not needed in all one time, it is in the directions, It worked so much crap out of the engine, I pulled the whole plug,yeesh there was more than could go thru the hole, then pulled the radiator and ran the hose thru it and a huge blob of black gunk the prestone turned the rust into plopped out, that stuff works. so I then ran the pressure washer thru every block opening i had, man she is as clean as clean can be...go for the prestone i think its a new one they have out, it changes the rust into something else, that is better than just a flush.

How BIG are these "blobs"?

I'd be concerned that these blobs might get stuck in a narrow passage & clog up some other part of the system......

 

[Haveittoplease]

New to the Duece but I am reading on a daily basis threads and Tms..I'm going to flush my cooling system and from all that I've readthe garden hose and the draincock at the bottom of the radiator is the common procedure when running the engine. I want to know if for something that dislodges from the interior of the cooling system the drain plug on the back of the block is a bigger exit. Now guys be nice , I've got a 1971 White, where's the block plug on the back of the engine. I've read TMs till I'm sick of it and maybe one of you will have a pic to show me. My M109a3 is worth saving and driving..all of them are. So does anyone have even a TM diagram showing the location of the block drain plug I can take out?
Many thanks in advance from an old, old man

 

[Flyingvan911]

Pull your air filter housing off. It makes it easier to get to. It is on the right side of the block at the back of the block about half way down toward the oil pan. It should just be a little spigot with "wings."

 

[Haveittoplease]

engine block removable plug

Pull your air filter housing off. It makes it easier to get to. It is on the right side of the block at the back of the block about half way down toward the oil pan. It should just be a little spigot with "wings."

TY Flyingvan911
But I read there is a plug larger than the draincockas your describing and it will help if there is sediment larger than the opening of the draincocks. I'm still looking at TMs but so far I haven't found the bigger block coolant plug, found the one your talking about...Thanks again

 

[Big Z]

If you want a bigger drain hole, you could just get a wrench and unscrew the drainc.ock from the block or radiator. If they're clogged to begin with, they are 1/4" NPT, and cost maybe 5 bucks. I last got some through menards and ebay.
After running water through it for awhile, i would recommend removing the radiator. Unscrewing the radiator's drainc.ock should give you the best draining of sediment with the rad in the truck, but pulling it will let you get even more out. With the radiator pulled, put a hose in the top of the radiator and run water through it. If you tilt the radiator so the bottom corner nearest the hose opening is pointed down, you should send a good quantity of crap from the bottom of the radiator away. Try tilting it back and forth with water running through it, and even upside down. I'd then reassemble and use your chemical cleaners with water. It'll likely be necessary to do a flush and even pull the rad a few times to get to a decent stopping point to add your coolant.

 

[Haveittoplease]

Radiator flush

If you want a bigger drain hole, you could just get a wrench and unscrew the drainc.ock from the block or radiator. If they're clogged to begin with, they are 1/4" NPT, and cost maybe 5 bucks. I last got some through menards and ebay.
After running water through it for awhile, i would recommend removing the radiator. Unscrewing the radiator's drainc.ock should give you the best draining of sediment with the rad in the truck, but pulling it will let you get even more out. With the radiator pulled, put a hose in the top of the radiator and run water through it. If you tilt the radiator so the bottom corner nearest the hose opening is pointed down, you should send a good quantity of crap from the bottom of the radiator away. Try tilting it back and forth with water running through it, and even upside down. I'd then reassemble and use your chemical cleaners with water. It'll likely be necessary to do a flush and even pull the rad a few times to get to a decent stopping point to add your coolant.

That sounds like what I should do.Greatly appreciated, Thanks Big Z

 

[M1031CMT]

And as stated back when this thread was started, install a coolant filter on the engine after you are finished. It will make sure all your hard work of cleaning out the system won't go to waste if you get something in there.

The assembly bracket is part #4019 at NAPA (it comes with the 90degree elbows and mounting hardward). With a #24070 WIX coolant filter to go with it. Then just plumb it into the coolant system with some coolant hose.

Installing it takes maybe 30 minutes.

I installed one in the M109A3 as well as the M35A2.



I would have connected one of the hoses down to the fitting on the water pump on the M109, but as you can maybe see in the picture, someone broke off the end of the plug a long time ago and even heating it up wouldn't get it off. But it works well this way too.

Cut the filter open after the first time you replace it and you will be amazed of the crap it picks up.

 

[Haveittoplease]

Rad flush

And as stated back when this thread was started, install a coolant filter on the engine after you are finished. It will make sure all your hard work of cleaning out the system won't go to waste if you get something in there.

The assembly bracket is part #4019 at NAPA (it comes with the 90degree elbows and mounting hardward). With a #24070 WIX coolant filter to go with it. Then just plumb it into the coolant system with some coolant hose.

Installing it takes maybe 30 minutes.

I installed one in the M109A3 as well as the M35A2.

View attachment 401912

I would have connected one of the hoses down to the fitting on the water pump on the M109, but as you can maybe see in the picture, someone broke off the end of the plug a long time ago and even heating it up wouldn't get it off. But it works well this way too.

Cut the filter open after the first time you replace it and you will be amazed of the crap it picks up.

I will definately do that. TY

 

[Big Z]

You might order your coolant filter base and filter through Rockauto. They carry Wix a lot cheaper than napa, even after it's been shipped to your door.

 

[Haveittoplease]

You might order your coolant filter base and filter through Rockauto. They carry Wix a lot cheaper than napa, even after it's been shipped to your door.

Thanks again, now this Newbie is well equipped

 

[SierraHotel]

Fleet Filter (www.fleetfilter.com) is even cheaper (and I use Rock Auto all the time)...even after they ping you pretty hard with shipping/handling. I'm working on getting my set up going and will probably go through them. After all, Wix is Wix (wherever you get it) and NAPA is...well, Wix. I will probably start to get my oil and fuel filters there, as well.

 

[JimmyThompson]

How does one "gauge" the coolant capacity (32 Quarts) with a water hose? Should I just fill to the top of the "fill neck"???

 

[cattlerepairman]

How does one "gauge" the coolant capacity (32 Quarts) with a water hose? Should I just fill to the top of the "fill neck"???

Yes and no, sir. The operative word is "flush". You stick the garden hose into the filler neck but provide an exit for the water (commonly the lower rad hose); leave the hose running and thereby flush stuff out of the rad and (parts of) the cooling system.

Then put the hose back on, fill the system with the hose, all the way to the bottom of the filler neck and let the engine run until warm. drain water. Rinse and repeat.

 

[JimmyThompson]

Once it's flushed, just refill to the filler neck?

 

[rmgill]

Refill to the filler neck, then run to bleed the system of air and double check that it's full.

 

[Cleveland Iron]

If you are being hard core about the cooling system... After you have flushed it, if you mix your own antifreeze and water... If your tap water is hard water, use distilled water. Hard water tends to leave deposits, particularly in a situation where it gets vented. Distilled has none of those nasty hard water salts.