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How do you paint your Deuce?

ntxcop

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swbradley1 and Repo,

Thanks for the comments. I used the small 4" and 6" wide rollers and it turned out GREAT. There was a long cure time, approximately 2 weeks to get really good and hard, but it looks great now.

Palskidoo,

In reference to your PM, I'm attaching a pic of the paint can with the HomeDepot formula on top. Just take the pic to HD and they can mix it up in a few minutes.

photo.jpgPaintFormula.jpg
 

Heath_h49008

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Damaged paint at Home Depot runs $7 a gallon... and if you ask nicely they will re-tint it for you. So, if you have a paint job in the future, you might consider keeping your eyes peeled for the discount shelf this spring. (As long as you don't mind a color that is not perfect)

So far a have about a 1/3rd of my paint for my upcoming job. (Yes, I really am that Dutch)

2cents
 

MilSpec78

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What about the frame, axles, engine, driveline etc? Some trucks look like everything has been painted. Have all of these trucks been torn down to bare frame? Or is there a less labor intensive way to prep and paint these areas?
 

TehTDK

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When I get a Deuce my choice of paintjob will either be the modified german flecktern, for the danish M/84 camo pattern, or an adapted MultiCam. How I am gonna achieve that on a vehicle however.... will be an interesting question
 

clinto

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What about the frame, axles, engine, driveline etc? Some trucks look like everything has been painted. Have all of these trucks been torn down to bare frame? Or is there a less labor intensive way to prep and paint these areas?
Most everything we've had looks like just got under there and sprayed everything, with varying degrees of effort put in. Of course, only some of it sticks, so the underside is multi colored.

We've only had a few trucks that were "true depot rebuilds"-everyone seems to think since their truck got a new engine in 1988 the whole truck is new, but it's simply not the case. A true rebuilt truck looks brand new top and bottom.

If you want to do it right, the only way is to blast it, then check everywhere (gearboxes, axles, etc.) for media intrusion.

It's a major undertaking to do one of these right.
 

maddawg308

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All my trucks I had were painted with spray bomb rattle cans. That being said, I didn't have the correct tools to do a proper job, like a compressor, a garage and an HVLP paint gun, if I did I would've painted them that way. The results are better.
 

MilSpec78

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I have only painted my wheels and suspension components so far but I plan to do the whole truck almost the same way. I just need warmer weather.

For the wheels I went to Sherwin Williams and used their exterior enamel paint. It should be tough and it comes in Satin which is close enough to flat for me. Plus Sherwin Williams has the color chip for Desert Tan. Unfortunately, I chose to use a cheap electric spray gun with the wrong tip. It applied way too much paint and uneven too. I actually went over it again with a paint brush and it came out ok. I plan to use a HVLP with the correct tip for the rest of the truck.

For suspension parts I used rustoleum's flat enamel black spray paint. It seems to go on well and looks good to me. I may use the gallon version and use HVLP too when I do the rest of the truck.
 

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eeyore357

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All of the trucks look great!! I guess you can't screw up a MV paint job.. lol Thanks for all the info! I'll have to give a shot when I get some time off work. Anyone know what color this would be or something very close to it? crawl-o-matic-49368-albums2418-29888.jpg
 

63C20

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We also went to Sherwin Williams and used the satin oil enamel, Had them match the Rust-oleum Green camouflage spray can. I think the paint jobs came out pretty well, a little on the gray side, but it is convenient to be able to touch things up and easily paint other stuff with the spray can. We painted it outside with an air sprayer and an air dryer.

Ask Sherwin Williams.jpg

Had to dodge the dew a couple of times, down here in Florida you can't paint after 3 PM(and not at all in the summer).
 

wsucougarx

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I used the Home Depot Behr Exterior Flat paint. Here's my thread on what I did:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?73018-1968-JK-M35A2-Restoration-Project!&highlight
Paint codes no longer work b/c Home Depot changed things up with their mixers.
I personally dislike Gillespie Paint from RAPCO. It is way too GLOSSY. If you're wanting a military flat paint without going actual CARC, the Behr paint is the closest you're going to get for the texture and flatness. After it's cured, it is really tough paint. Don't let the fact that it's a household paint make you think it's inferior. This stuff is outstanding!!
 
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ntxcop

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I used the Home Depot Behr Exterior Flat paint. Here's my thread on what I did:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?73018-1968-JK-M35A2-Restoration-Project!&highlight
Paint codes no longer work b/c Home Depot changed things up with their mixers.
I personally dislike Gillespie Paint from RAPCO. It is way too GLOSSY. If you're wanting a military flat paint without going actual CARC, the Behr paint is the closest you're going to get for the texture and flatness. After it's cured, it is really tough paint. Don't let the fact that it's a household paint make you think it's inferior. This stuff is outstanding!!
wsucougarx,

Your thread was awesome, and led me to follow your lead when I painted my 5-Ton. I just painted it in 4-5 months ago and used the paint code on the can that I posted a pic of earlier in this thread. I'm not sure if it's the exact same formula as what's on your can label, but it turned out great.

Keith
 

SteveKuhn

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"...Anyone know what color this would be or something very close to it? ..."

I don't know for sure but it looks very similar to the IDF 'Sinai Grey' See:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...Color-Late-60s&p=923977&viewfull=1#post923977

There are several other references on the site as well (actually that thread has several good ones.) I recall reading someplace that one of the modelling paint companies has a precise color because those guys can be real sticklers. I also recall someone bought that then had it matched.

Remember that colors look different in photos, different light, due to aging, etc.

Steve
 
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MWMULES

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63C20

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How is that enamel holding up? I decided to go with it because I thought it would be more durable than the HD Behr paint and is still reasonably inexpensive.
It seems to be holding up well, got quite hard in a week or 10 days, the gloss faded after a couple of months and it is pretty flat, if you look closely at the photo, the truck on the left has a fresh (day before) coat and is a bit more "satiny".
I would not recommend that you paint your MV with house paint, but that is just me.:)
 

m16ty

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Just keep in mind that buying enough spray cans to paint a deuce can get pretty expensive. Spray cans is one of the most expensive way to buy paint. If you're set on using spray cans, at least do yourself a favor and get one of those pistol grip things that attaches to the top of the can, your index finger will thank you.

I get my paint at the local PPG store. I was using Gillespie and it's good paint but the haz-mat charges from Rapco can be a killer. I painted a piece of metal with a Rapco spray can and took it to the PPG store. They matched it spot on and now I can get a good quality industrial enamel for $25 a gallon with no shipping charges.

What I do with camo is paint the whole truck the base color with a spray gun. Then I'll go back with spray cans for the other colors. Mainly because you have a little more control of the pattern with spray cans and it doesn't take much paint after you've got the base color down.
 
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