The welding and glue have nothing to do with the balancer. I got the trademark broken keyway (also all over internet) so I'm looking at options to fix it either permanently or at least until I get a new engine. The steel paste didn't work, nor did the welding of the balancer to the crank, but then again the bolt came loose. I'm sure we all agree the if you remove your crank bolt on any car, especially a big diesel, you can kiss your keyway goodbye.
What's different this time:
1. There is a GM recall of the crank bolt replacing the 8.8 to the 10.9, due to the issues I am having, verbatim. As expected, mine had the original 8.8 bolt. I did replace it with a custom 10.9 but it was not the right length nor the right texture. I have the OEM bolt now.
2. There is also a recall of the crank washer. The recall calls for a stiffer one, however I cannot find them. The original still works, so hopefully that will suffice.
3. When my last balancer failed, the bolt was hand tight after a week of driving and yes, the balancer spun slightly. The GM manuals say specifically you CANNOT reuse the balancers or the bolt. The OEM balancers have an extra "layer" of metal that allows them to fit snug in the inside of the tube. Once it is removed, or if it spins due to a bad keyway, it will no longer fit to spec. I inspected my new one and this is correct. See pics attached.
4. I purchased a right angle torque/impact wrench. I will be using this to install the bolt which gives me leverage and also has the impact which moves the bolt easier without affecting shaft rotation. We'll see if this works.
Unfortunately, my welder is sick so he keeps postponing the welding work. If he can't come tonight, I am repairing the keyway with a higher temp steel putty the reinstalling with a better torque spec and correct bolt. Otherwise, he will fill the hole in the crank with a tig weld then I will grind to perfection with my dremel.
